Brewster 


'ii 


/^^z^y^  e4^J^^y>^i^^    >^'^/ 


FROM 


INDEPENDENCE  HALL 


Around  the  World 


BY 

F.  CARROLL  BRLWSTER,  LL.D. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

THE  LEVYTYPE  COMPANY. 


l89v 


COPYRIGHT,  189s 

BY 

F.  Carroll  Brewster. 


levytype  Company 

ENGRAVERS 

AND 

PRINTERS. 


PUBLISHER'S    PREFACE. 


Nowadays,  when  the  facilities  of  travel  on  the  one 
hand,  and  of  }ml)lication  on  the  other,  have  made 
both  a  voyage  around  the  globe  and  the  printing  of 
its  narrative  a  common-place  matter,  there  is  need 
of  something  in  the  way  of  an  apology  for  the  bring- 
ing out  of  another  book  of  this  kincL 

Apart  from  the  fact  that  Judge  Brewster's  notes 
of  his  journey,  originally  made  only  as  private 
memoranda,  have  been  published  in  response,  prim- 
arily, to  many  requests  to  that  end,  a  l)roader  rea- 
son for  the  present  work  will  Ijc  found  by  the  reader 
in  the  freshness  and  simplicity  of  tlie  voyager's 
recital,  in  its  freedom  from  the  conventional  spirit 
of  traveler's  tales,  in  its  pointed  expression  of  un- 
biased views  regarding  the  places  and  the  peoples 
that  he  describes.  The  chronicle  of  Judge  Brewster's 
journey  is  clearly  that  of  a  keen  observer,  whose 
considerations  are  tlie  reflections  of  a  disciplined 
mind,  whose  statements  are  those  of  an  unprepos- 
sessed reporter,  and  whose  narrative  is  presented  as 
a  simple  and  unvarnished  tale. 

In    collating  the    illustrations   for   this    journey 


PUBLISHER'S  PREFACE. 

around  the  world,  the  publishers  have  supplemented 
the  pictures  collected  by  Judge  Brewster  with  a 
number  selected  from  other  sources,  and  desire  here 
to  nolo  their  indebtedness  to  Stuart  C'ulin,  Esq., 
Director  of  tlie  Archaeological  Department  of  the 
University  of  Pennsylvania,  for  copies  of  the 
etlmological  illustrations  of  the  Museum,  and  to 
Simon  A.  Stern,  Esq.,  for  the  use  of  the  extensive 
series  of  photographs  collected  l)y  liim  on  the  occa- 
sion of  his  mission  to  the  Chinese  government. 

L.  E.  L. 

PhllatUlplda^  June,  1895. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


Page 

Publisher's  Preface V 

Author's  Preface VII 

Introduction IX 

From  vSau  Francisco  to  Honolulu 16 

Kilauea 20 

Tables  of  Hawaiian  Population 21 

The  Bernice  Pauahi  IMshop  Museum 21 

Water  Supply  of  Honolulu 27 

From  Honolulu  to  Yokohama 29 

Clock  Time  at  Sea 31 

The  Steerage 85 

Living  in  Jajjan 37 

Yokohama 42 

Dai-Butsu 43 

Tokio 56 

Importation  of  Words  by  the  Japanese 60 

Japanese  Railroads 60 

Inland  Sea  of  Japan 61 

China 64 

Shanghai 64 

China's  Trade  with  Japan      73 

Chinese  Aversion  to  Hunting 76 

Absence  of  Mail  Service  in  China 80 

Absence  of  Civilized  Conveniences 81 

Peking 81 

Chinese  Credulity 86 

Chinese  Art  of  Healing 86 

From  Shanghai   to  Hong-Kong 88 

Canton 88 

Misrule  in  China 89 

Chinese  English 91 

Religion  of  China  and  Japan 92 

Buddhism 94 


TABLE  OF   CONTENTS 

Page 

Real  Estate  in  China 96 

Chinese  Opium  Dens 99 

From  China  to  Calcutta 101 

Saigon  .  .   • 101 

Singapore 107 

Colombo  (Ceylon) 109 

The  Magicians  of  the  East 112 

Fruits,  etc 118 

Kandy 122 

Adam's  Peak 125 

Across  India 127 

Calcutta 127 

Benares 129 

Lucknow 136 

Residency  of  Lucknow 140 

Cawupore 143 

Agra 146 

Taj-Mahal 148 

Delhi 1-50 

The  Kootub  Miuar 1-53 

Chronological  List  of  Ruins  at  Delhi 158 

Jeypore 164 

Amber  (Anibar) 170 

Bombay 172 

The  Royal  Alfred  SaUors'  Home,  Bombay 176 

The  Caves  of  Elephanta 176 

Towers  of  Silence 178 

Pinjraroot 180 

The  Cyclones 185 

Homeward  Bound 186 

Suez 188 

Ismailia 191 

Port  Said 191 

Candia 191 

Zante 191 

Historical  Sketch  of  the  Anglo-Indian  Empire  ....  192 


PREFACE, 


The  narrative  of  a  tour  of  the  world  should 
l;)e  written  by  one  who  combines  the  learning  of 
the  historian,  the  geographer,  the  astronomer,  the 
statistician,  the  student  of  architecture,  })ainting, 
statuary  and  all  the  arts. 

The  work  would  then  be  worthy  of  the  study  of 
all  men,  for  it  would  edify,  instruct,  enlighten  and 
delight  the  reader. 

Time  should  also  be  devoted  to  the  journey,  for 
the  faithlul  examination  of  every  temple,  mosque, 
tomb,  gallery  and  object  of  research  and  of  study. 

When  the  author  of  tliis  brochure  recollects 
that  he  possesses  none  of  the  mental  qualiiications 
above  referred  to,  and  that  lie  could  not  devote  the 
necessar}'  time  for  the  examination  of  places  visited, 
he   feels   as    if    he    owed    most    ample    excuse    for 

vii 


attempting  to  publish  his  reiiiinisceiices.  The 
truth  is  his  apology.  He  travelled  in  a  hurry  and 
wrote  as  opportunity  permitted  some  hasty  memo- 
randa of  his  journeys.  He  was  requested  to  publish 
his  manuscript,  and  he  has  not  had  time  to  re-write 
or  to  extend  it.  Such  as  it  is,  and  witli  its  many 
imperfections  he  reluctantly  hands  it  to  tlie  printer. 
The  journeys  here  described  occupied  four 
months  and  thirteen  days.  Deducting  for  a  stay 
in  California,  four  months  may  be  said  to  represent 
the  actual  time  employed.  Continents,  seas,  oceans 
are  crossed,  and  much  is  seen  in  such  a  span  of 
days,  but  it  leaves  no  time  for  thorougli  examina- 
tion or  for  needed  rest.  Egypt,  Palestine,  Turkey, 
Greece  and  all  the  important  cities  of  Europe  were 
omitted  on  this  excursion  and  a  feverish  anxiety  to 
return  home  pushed  the  traveller  from  Port  Said  to 
Brindisi,  then  across  Italy,  France,  and  the  Atlantic 
to  the  United  States. 


VIU 


INTRODUCTION. 


HE  first  man  known  to  histon' as 
attem[)ting-  to  circumnavigate  the 
ii'Id  was  Ferdinand  Magellan.  He 
lied  from  San  Lucar  in  1519,  went 
South  America,  passed  through  the 
raits  to  which  he  gave  his  name, 
d  up  tlie  Pacific  ocean  to  the  Phil- 
ine  Islands.  There  he  was  unfor- 
nately  killed  in  1521,  in  a  conflict 
with  the  natives.  His  vessel  however 
rf turned  in  safety  to  Si)ain  September  6,  1622,  thus 
making  the  first  voyage  round  the  world. 

Sir  Francis  Drake  is  the  next  historical  celebrity 
in  this  connection.  He  was  the  first  Englishman 
to  attempt  a  voyage  around  the  world.  He  com- 
menced his  celebrated  expedition  at  32  years  of  age. 
The  best  portrait  of  him  extant  pictures  him  as 
of  middle  height,  with  brown  hair,  high  forehead, 
long  grey  eyes,  small  ears,  and  a  long  moustache 
and  l)eard  covering  his  mouth  and  chin.  He  is 
dressed  in  a  loose  dark  shirt,  with  a  belt  around  his 

waist. 

ix 


He  sailed  from  Plymouth,  England  on  the  Pelican, 
of  only  120  tons,  November  15,  1577.  He  had  with 
him  four  other  vessels,  one  of  fifty,  one  of  thirty  and 
two  of  eighty  tons.  His  whole  force  consisted  of  166 
men.  The  Pelican  carried  twenty  guns.  His  desti- 
nation was  unknown  to  his  crew.  Shortly  after 
sailing,  a  storm  overtook  him,  which  compelled  a 
return  to  Falmouth  for  repairs.  He  started  again 
December  13,  went  to  the  Cape  de  \"erde  Islands; 
after  robbing  a  few  Spanish  vessels,  he  sailed  to  South 
America.  In  this  neigliborhood  one  of  his  captains 
Doughty,  deserted  ;  search  was  made  for  him,  he 
was  captured  and  transferred  with  his  crew  to  the 
Pelican.  Drake  then  proceeded  to  Patagonia, 
where  Doughty  was  tried,  condemned  to  death,  and 
was  beheaded. 

After  three  weeks  of  hardship  the  navigators 
found  themselves  in  the  Pacific.  There  remained 
only  the  Pelican,  the  Elizabeth  and  the  thirty  ton 
cutter.     The   cutter    went    down     in   a    hurricane. 

The  captain  of  the  Elizabeth  left  Drake  and 
reached  England  in  the  following  .June.  Drake 
remained.  He  soon  met  an  Indian  fisherman  who 
informed  him  of  a  galleon  in  the  harbor  of  ^"alpa- 
raiso.  The  Pelican  sailed  alongside  her  prize,  and 
surprised  the  Spanish  seamen.  Not  caring  to  in- 
jure them,  Drake  seized  their  treasures.  Silver  of 
the  value   of  four  thousand   ducats  was   transferred 


X 


to  the  Pelican.  Drake  also  robbed  the  "  Cacafuego' 
which  was  laden  with  all  the  bullion  of  the 
season's  mining,  gold  and  jewels,  on  her  way  from 
the  Isthmus.  The  full  value  of  all  liis  plunder 
remained  a  secret  between  Drake  and  the  Queen. 

Near  the  coast  of  Mexico  tlie  Pelican  plundered  a 
Chinese  vessel,  and  rohluMl  the  principal  citizens  of 
a  Spanish  settlement.  In  lower  California  a  month 
was  spent  repairing  the  Pelican.  April  K),  1579, 
Drake  started  north  in  hope  of  finding  a  northern 
passage.  Before  the  summer  was  ended,  England 
and    Spain    had    learned    of    Drake's    plunderings. 

Phillip  wrote  to  England  to  l»e  instantly  in- 
formed of  the  pirates  arrival,  and  re(|uested  the  res- 
toration of  the  plunder  and  the  punishment  of  the 
offender.  He  also  sent  ships  to  guard  the  straits  of 
Magellan.  Drake  stopped  at  San  Francisco,  and  se- 
cured the  good  graces  of  the  Indians  by  presenting 
them  with  medicines  and  ointments.  They  l)e- 
lieved  him  to  be  a  god,  and  offered  sacrifice  to  him. 

During  his  stay  he  discovered  the  existence  of 
gold.  Setting  sail  again,  he  passed  along  the  Java 
coast  and  came  near  being  stranded.  A  change  of 
wind  l)rouuhl  his  ship  into  dee})  water,  and  j)r()- 
ceeding  westward  he  passed  through  the  straits  of 
Sumla.  reaching  Plymouth  in  October.  Not  liaving 
heard  of  Drake  for  eighteen  months,  the  wiiole 
country  rang  with  his  praises.  The  Queen  was  de- 
lighted and  received  iiim  with  great  honor. 

xi 


Tlie  Spanish  Ambassador  sent  word  to  the  Queen 
that  unless  restoration  was  made,  immediate  war 
must  be  expected.  Fearing  she  might  have  to 
yiehl,  she  refused  to  allow  the  {)lunder  to  be  regis- 
tered, and  resolved  to  reserve  a  goodl\'  portion  for 
herself,  foi'  her  favorites,  and  ten  thousand  })ounds 
for  Drake  and  his  company.  She  sent  Drake  to 
Plymouth  to  take  charge  of  the  Ijootv,  and  selected 
a  magistrate  on  whom  she  could  rely  to  inventory 
the  cargo,  allowing  Drake  time  and  opportunity  for 
removing  a  great  part  of  the  plunder  before  regis- 
tration was  made. 

On  Drake's  return  to  London,  he  was  received 
with  great  favor,  the  (^ueen  bestowing  upon  him 
the  honor  of  knighthood.  He  was  however  cen- 
sured by  men  whose  good  o})inion  he  valued,  and 
he  gave  them  handsome  presents  in  the  hope  of 
changing  this  opposition.  lie  presented  a  diamond 
cross  with  a  crown  set  with  enormous  emeralds  to 
the   Queen.     She   wore   this   on   New    Year's    day. 

Burghley  and  Sussex,  to  their  honor  be  it  said. 
would  not  acce})t  the  presents  of  the  pirate. 

Captain  Cook's  name  is  known  to  every  school 
boy.  He  made  tliree  successful  voyages  round  the 
world. 

The  first  in  I7ti<s  was  in  a  small  ship,  tlie  "En- 
deavour," of  only  ■Hi)  tons.  Diminutive  as  was 
this  vessel  she  seems  to  have  been  a  giantess  when 

xii 


compared    with  the    "  Santa  Maria  "    of   Columbus, 
whieli  was  not  over  100  tons. 

Cook  reached  Otaheite  or  Taliite,  where  he  erected 
an  observatory  and  made  astronomical  observations. 

From  there  he  sailed  in  quest  of  the  great  conti- 
nent, then  supposed  to  exist  in  the  South  Pacific, 
and  reached  the  Islands  of  New  Zealand.  Owing 
to  the  hostility  of  the  natives,  he  could  not  pene- 
trate to  the  interior,  and  contented  himself  with  a 
voyage  of  six  months  around  the  coast.  He  then 
proceeded  to  Australia  and  sighted  Botany  Bay 
April  28th.  From  Australia  he  sailed  to  New 
Guinea  and  thence  to  Batavia,  where  his  ship  had 
to  }tut  in  for  repairs. 

He  arrived  in  England  .June  11,  1771,  was  raised 
by  the  King  to  tlie  rank  of  Captain,  and  was 
placed  in  command  of  the  "  Resolution,  "  a  sliip  of 
4<)'2  tons,  and  a  smaller  shi})  called  the  "Adven- 
ture." He  sailed  from  Plymoutli  .July  13,  177"2,  to 
discover  the  great  southern  continent.  He  reached 
Madeira  July  29,  and  touched  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  January  17,  1773  he  sailed  for  New  Zealand 
and  returned  to  England  July  30,  1774.  He  sailed 
from  Nore  June  25,  1776,  cruised  in  the  South 
Pacific,  discovered  the  Sandwich  Islands  (named 
after  the  Earl  of  Sandwich)  and  reached  America  in 
March,  1778.     Returning  to  winter  in  the  Sandwich 


Xlll 


Islands,  he  discovered  Hawaii,  where  he  met  his 
tragical  death  February  14,  1779. 

Many  have  supposed  that  Marco  Polo  sailed 
round  the  world.  This  is  a  mistake.  He  was  a 
native  of  Venice.  In  April,  1271,  at  the  age  of  17; 
he  travelled  through  Persia  and  Turkestan,  and  pass- 
ing across  the  great  Gobi  desert  he  reached  Cathay 
(China).  There  he  visited  Kublai  Khan  at  his 
summer  palace  in  Shandu.  He  spent  a  year  with 
the  Khan,  learned  the  language,  and  wore  the  Tar- 
tar costume. 

He  became  Envoy  to  tlie  Khan,  and  at  23  was 
sent  to  the  western  and  southern  provinces.  Among 
other  places  he  visited  Thibet,  Nankin,  Pekin,  and 
spent  considerable  time  in  Kinsai,  which  was  noted 
for  its  fine  buildings  and  public  baths,  of  which  he 
found  4000  in  the  city.  He  described  the  women 
of  Kinsai  as  "of  angelic  beauty."  He  returned  to 
Kambalu,  where  he  was  welcomed  and  held  in  high 
favor  ]\v  the  Khan.  Later,  he  was  sent  on  another 
expedition  to  the  Japanese  Islands.  He  describes 
Ceylon  as  the  loveliest  island  in  the  Eastern  Seas. 
Here  he  saw  the  jagged  mountain  called  "Adam's 
Peak"  upon  which  is  said  to  be  the  tomb  of  the 
founder  of  the  Buddhist  religion. 

As  the  Envoy  of  the  Khan,  he  was  admitted  into 
the  higher  class  of  Hindoos,  known  as  Brahmins. 
After  travelling  in  the  interior  of  India,  he  crossed 


XIV 


the  Indian  Ocean  toward  tlie  coast  of  Africa  and 
proceeded  to  the  great  island  of  Madagascar,  })ass- 
ing  through  Zanzibar  and  Abyssinia.  He  then  re- 
turned to  Kambalu.  Sixteen  years  had  now  passed 
since  Marco  had  left  his  native  city.  His  mission 
to  Cathay  had  been  accomplished.  He  reported 
that  he  had  converted  the  Khan  and  many  of  his 
subjects  to  Christianity.  Marco  was  41  years  of 
age  when  he  returned  to  Venice.  Soon  after,  he 
enlisted  for  the  war  between  Genoa  and  \\Miice. 
He  commanded  a  galley,  fought  bravely,  but  was 
captured.  His  brave  commander,  Dandola,  killed 
himself  rather  than  be  carried  a  prisoner  to  (Jenoa. 
Marco  was  imprisoned  and  occupied  the  cell  with 
a  great  scholar  of  Pisa.  They  became  fast  friends. 
While  in  prison,  he  wrote  the  thrilling  story  of  his 
travels.  Five  months  later,  Marco's  father,  Nicolo, 
and  his  brother,  Maffeo,  visited  him  in  {)rison.  They 
offered  a  large  sum  as  a  ransom.  Marco  was  re- 
leased. A  year  later,  in  1299,  he  returned  to  Ven- 
ice. Shortly  afterwards,  he  married  Donata  Lore- 
dano,  the  daughter  of  a  nobleman.  He  died  at  the 
age  of  70.     His  travels  read  like  fairy  tales. 


XV 


FROn  SAN   FRANCISCO  (N.  37°  47  ) 
To  HONOLULU  (N.  21°  18  ) 


Distance,  2092  miles. 
Time,  6  days,  1.5  hours. 
Fare,  1st  class,  f  100. 


DiFFKKENCE   IN  TiME : 

Philadelphia,  12  Noon. 
San  Francisco,  9  A.  M. 
Honolulu,  6.30  A.  M. 


OYAGES  on  the   Pacific  are 
not  marked  by  the  number 
of    vessels    one    generally 
sees  in  crossing  the  Atlan- 
tic.   A  steamer  and  a  sailei' 
were  all    tlie   ships  sighted  in 
six    days.       A   few    flying-fish 
and  l)irds  hardly  relieved   the 
monotony. 

The  entrance  to  the  harbor 
of    Honolulu   is  veiy    pictur- 
esque, but  it  is   narrow  and  dangerous.     It  is  well 
marked    by  l)uoys.       Very    efiective  dredging    has 
been  done  on  the  bar. 

The  Hawaiian  Re})ul)lie  consists  of  six  large 
and  two  small  islands;  in  all,  nearly  7000  square 
miles  and  90,000  inhabitants.  Honolulu,  the  capi- 
tol,  contains   a   population   of  about    27,000.     The 

16 


AKOl'ND   THE    WOULD  17 

funu  of  noveniiiicnt  is  UcpuMicaii.  Tlie  streets  of 
Hoiiokilu  are  smootli  and  well  laid  out.  A  tram 
connects  the  centre  of  the  town  with  the  sul)Uii)s. 
There  are  some  very  fine  huildings.  The  largest 
was  formerly  the  I'oyal  })alaee.  It  is  now  the  seat 
of  government  of  the  Repuhlic.  It  is  of  grand 
pi'oportions  with  Corinthian  columns.  There  is  a 
s[»lendid  hos})ital,  a  very  large  stone  chnrcli,  some 
smaller  places  of  worshi}),  including  a  JNIormon 
ciuipel.  You  must  add  to  these  the  post  ottice, 
museum,  nuniicipal  huildings  and  many  atti'active 
residences.  The  appearance,  on  the  whole,  is  of  a 
large  country  town  with  mountains  at  the  side  and 
in  the  rear.  A  drive  of  seven  miles  takes  you  to 
Pali  (the  cliff),  which  presents  a  picture  of  rare 
heauty.  Standmg  upon  a  shelf  of  rock  some  *20()() 
feet  high,  you  see  a  perpendicular  descent  touching 
a  valley  of  1000  acres  dotted  with  two  villages  and 
washed  by  the  ocean.  The  effect  is  very  grand. 
The  Island  is  about  sixteen  miles  on  its  longest  line 
and  was  stated  to  be  over  sixty-four  miles  around. 
Ti'opical  trees  and  ])lants  abound.  The  date,  cocoa^ 
}talm,  sorghum,  mango,  guava,  l)anyan,  eucalyptus 
(called  here  kora),  bananas,  pine-api)les,  and  other 
plants,  with  beautiful  flowers,  are  seen  in  great  })ro- 
fusion. 

The  history  of  these  interesting  islands,  since  their 
first  discovery  by  Cook,  is  well  known.     The  arrival 


18 


FHOM    INDEPENDENCE   HALL 


of  our  missionaries  in  1820  and  1823  was  followed 
by  the  conversion  of  the  Queen  and  of  all  the  king- 
dom. 

Vancouver  is  credited  with  the  introduction  of 
cattle  and  of  chickens.  The  best  horses  are  brought 
from  the  United  States.  A  splendid  grey  was 
quoted  at  $250. 

Subsecjuent  to  Vancouver's  last  visit  and  prior  to 
the  conquest 
by  Kameha- 
meha,  the 
li  a  r  1) or  of 
Honolulu 
was  discov- 
ered by  Cap- 
tain Brown 
of  the  British 
ship  Butter- 
worth.  He 
called  it  Fair- 
haven.  Sur- 
veys followed 
by  the  British  and  Kussians. 

Aside  from  the  conversion  of  the  people  to  Chris- 
tianity, there  have  been  several  historical  items  of 
some  interest  in  the  life  of  this  nation.  The  first 
was  in  1843.  The  British  Consul  had  complained 
to   Lord  George  Paulet,  commanding   the   "  Carys- 


GOVERNMENT  HOUSE.  HONOLULU. 


AKOUND   THE   WOKLU  19 

fort,"  of  outrages  inflicted  upon  him  mu'I  othei' 
subjects  of  her  Majesty.  A  suit  had  been  brought 
for  a  laundry  1)111  and  an  attachment  had  been 
issued  against  certain  property.  For  these  and 
other  wrongs  Captain  Paulet  sent  to  the  King  six 
demands.  The  first  of  these  was  for  the  removal  of 
the  odious  attachment.  This  was  accom})anied  by 
a  threat  of  bom])ai'dment  to  be  carried  into  effect 
the  next  afternoon. 

The  King  meekly  re[)lied  that  he  would  comply, 
but  under  protest,  and  referred  the  whole  question  to 
her  Majesty.  But  this  only  emboldened  the  Captain 
to  present  other  demands,  and  the  Knig  in  despair 
exclaiming  that  "  lie  would  not  die  piecemeal  "  and 
entering  his  solenni  protest,  ceded  the  islands  to 
Great  Britain,  reserving  his  appeal  to  her  Majesty. 
Captain  Paulet  assumed  charge.  But  the  Queen 
soon  terminated  the  comedy.  In  a  few  months 
(July  26,  1843)  Admiral  Thomas  arrived  in  11.  M. 
S.  Dublin.  He  immediately  sought  the  King — 
restored  the  sovereignty  and  saluted  the  Hawaiian 
standard.  Of  course  a  feast  was  given.  History 
records  this  interesting  occasion  in  these  words: 
"  There  were  three  long  tables,  one  at  the  head  run- 
"  ning  cross-wise.  At  this  head  table  His  Majesty 
"sat,  (Jii  the  (/round,  in  native  fashion,  with  the 
"  Admiral  upon  his  light  and  the  other  officers, 
"etc.     .     .     . 


•20  FROM  INDEPENDENCE  HAEI. 

"Of  L'liirrs  (itnl  f(>i'h:s  there  irere  not  enonyh  fo  go 
"  round,  (uul  a  very  nimble  use  of  the  fingers  was 
"  made.  .  .  .  Tliere  was  the  finely  baked  pig, 
"  tliv  ro(i><tc(I  do(/  (iiid  all  the  variety  of  the  native 
"  fish,  flesh  and  fowl  and  fruits  of  the  islands." 

The  next  chapter  of  interest  records  such  recent 
events  as  to  render  notice  of  them  almost  unneces- 
sary. It  stands  alone  in  the  history  of  the  United 
States.  '1  he  Queen  sought  in  January,  189o.  to 
break  the  constitution.  Her  ministers  refused  to  aid 
her  treason.  The  people  peaceably  deposed  hor. 
Our  representative  recognized  the  new  Republic. 
Seventeen  other  governments  followed  suit.  And 
then,  to  our  sorrow,  the  U.  S.  President  exerted  every 
efibrt  to  restore  this  dethroned  Queen.  Our  country 
was  singularly  saved  from  the  reproach  by  the 
Queen'  herself  who  refused  to  be  restored  unless  she 
could  beliead  our  citizens. 

Of  the  extinct  volcano  kilauea  much  has  been 
written  by  Lady  Brassey,  Dr.  Lyons  and  others. 

A  new  hotel  stands  almost  on  tlie  brink  of  tiie 
crater.  The  vapors  are  utilized  for  baths,  etc.  The 
lava  floor  of  the  crater  is  crossed  bv  visitors.  It  is 
said  that  it  heaves  occasionally  and  that  in  1891 
there  was  a  considerable  change. 


AROUND  THE   WoKI.U 


21 


TJif  FoUowiiif/  Cornparafivr   Table  of  Nrdionaliiij  of  Popu- 
lation of  HdiraiKtn  Mfiixh  in  1S90  iiiaij  he  rf  Interest: 


NATIOXALITY. 

Natives 

Half-castes 

Chinese 

AnierioDns 

Hawaiian  Ijorn 

Britons 

Portuguese 

Germans 

French 

Japanese 

Norwegian 

Other  foreigner 

Polynesian 


)f  foreign  parents 


1890. 

84,4n(). 

(i,186. 
1.5,801. 

1,92S. 

7,495. 

1,344. 

s,r>Oi'. 

1,484. 

70. 

12,860. 

227. 

419. 

.588. 


89,990. 
Of     the     liEKXICK     I'AUAHI      BISHOP     MUSEUM.    W. 

T.  Brioliani.  A.  M.,  Curator,  writes — "That  it 
fulfills  two  public  uses:  it  preserves  in  fitting 
monument  the  name  of  one  honore<l  and  l)elove<l  in 
the  community,  and  it  also  by  its  nature  and  eon- 
tents  adds  dignity  to  the  country  at  large.  It  was 
founded  in  1S89  by  Hon.  Charles  R.  Bishop,  and 
placed  in  the  custody  of  the  Trustees  of  tln^ 
Kamehameha  Schools,  with  a  sufficient  endowment 
to  insure  its  preservation,  if  not  its  growth.  Ex- 
ternally it  is  a  structure  if  not  perfect  architecturally, 
at  least  attractive,  built  of  the  very  bones  of  the 
land,    the    durable    lava     blocks     from    one   of  the 


•si  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALI> 

ancient  flows  that  piled  up  the  mountains  of  Oahu. 
Somewhat  dark  and  sombre  as  this  material  is,  it  is 
closely  covered  bv  the  delicate  leaves  and  bright 
yellow  blossoms  of  what  may  be  called  the  '  Hono- 
lulu Ivy.'  " 

Two  ample  doors  in  the  central  tower  admit  to  a 
hallway,  which,  emptied  of  its  ethnological  treasures, 
would  still  claim  the  visitor's  attention  from  the 
beauty  of  the  native  koa  woodwork  of  the  panelled 
wainscot  and  stairs.  To  the  left  opens  the  Kahili 
room,  finished  in  white  cedar  and  like  the  entrance 
hall,  paved  with  encaustic  tile  and  brick.  On  the 
other  hand  is  the  main  room  of  the  museum,  above 
which  and  reached  l)y  the  stairway  is  the  picture 
gallery.  So  much  for  the  general  features  of  this 
fire-proof  building. 

Here  it  is  hoped  to  collect  not  only  every  article 
tliat  may  illustrate  the  ethnology  of  this  group,  but 
also  every  bird,  fish,  insect,  shell,  coral,  plant,  in 
short  all  that  will  show  in  an  accurate  and 
scientific  as  well  as  popular  way,  whatever  of  life 
the  islands  produce.  This  must  be  a  work  of  time 
even  with  the  assistance  of  all  the  friends  of  the 
museum,  but  already  a  beginning  has  been  made, 
and  experts  in  the  various  departments  have  prom- 
ised to  name  the  specimens  when  collected,  so  that 
here  in  the  Pacific  may  be  as  accurately  named  fish, 
shells,  corals,  etc.,  as  can  be  found  in  any  museum 
of  Eurone  or  America. 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


23 


The  kahilis  head  the  list  of  what  the  inustnim 
has  that  is  not  to  be  found  elsewhere,  and  it  has 
seemed  worth  while  to  attempt  to  preserve  these 
rather  perishable  emblems  of  royalty.  There  are 
forty-five  of  the  large  processional  kahilis  and  more 
than  sixty  of  tlie  smaller  fly-ljrushes.  Some  of 
these  saw  the  birth  of  the  Kaniehameha  Dynasty, 
others  f  o  1 
lowed  the  las 
son  of  Kame- 
hamelia  I.  t.>  f^HSfdC-v!^ 
the  tomb,  anil 
the  late  s 
made  were  of 
pure  whitt' 
feathers  to 
m  a  r  k  t  lie 
funeral  pomp 
of  the  last  of 
the  Kameha- 
mehas,  whose 
name  this  museum  bears.  In  the  midst  of  these 
impressive  kahilis  are  the  Hawaiian  birds,  and  this 
collection  contains  many  very  choice  specimens.  In 
the  same  room  are  the  Niihau  mats,  one  of  these 
being  very  old,  once  the  property  of  Kamehameha 
I:  another  is  very  large,  14|x30|  feet.  All  of 
them  are  interesting  as  a  manufacture  most  credit- 


QUEEN  STREET.  HONOLULU. 


24  FROM  INDEPEXDENCE  UALh 

able  to  Hawaiian  industry,  but  fast  becomino-  a 
lost  art. 

Of  the  kapas  the  museum  possesses  more  than 
35,000  scjuare  feet,  l)ut  this  immense  surface  conveys 
little  idea  of  the  great  variety  of  texture,  pattern 
and  color.  All  the  museums  of  Europe  combined 
cannot  ecjual  this  very  remarkable  collection,  which 
fully  sustains  the  reputation  of  Hawaiian  kapas  as 
the  best  in  the  world.  In  one  case  in  the  main 
room  one  can  trace  the  manufacture  of  bark  cloth 
from  the  strip  of  bark  through  every  process  to  the 
finished  product;  and  better  still,  examine  the  texture 
of  this  paper  cloth  in  some  224  specimens  placed 
like  stained  glass  in  the  windows. 

In  wooden  bowls  and  dishes  the  museum  is  very 
rich,  having  many  of  admirable  form  made  long  be- 
fore wood-working  machinery  was  introduced- 
These  were  the  "services  of  plate"  of  the  old  kings 
and  alii.  The  largest  is  a  bowl  nine  feet  in  circum- 
ference while  the  smallest  is  a  little  bowl  from  which 
Queen  Emma  eat  in  childhood.  Here  are  dishes 
for  fish,  roast  pig  and  dog:  finger  bowls  for  washing 
at  the  feast;  gourd  bottles  and  cocoanut  cups  for 
drinking;  small  dishes  for  inamona,  and  in  the 
midst  of  all  these  convivial  implements  to  remind 
that  there  is  an  end  to  all  feasting,  like  the  mummy 
of  the   Egyptian  banquet,   is  the  great  trough  in 


AROUND  THE   WORLD  25 

which   the   body  of  a   cliief  was  dissected  and  his 
bones  cleaned. 

The  Hawaiians  were  great  fishermen  and  this 
handicraft  is  well  shown  here.  Nets  of  olona  of 
many  kinds,  fish  traps  and  hooks  of  fine  workman- 
shi}).  Of  these  last  some  are  of  human  l)one,  others 
of  tortoise-shell,  ivory  or  sea-shell ;  and  here,  too,  are 
the  hooks  hammered  from  the  nails  procured  from 
the  early  voyagers.  The  hooks  range  in  size  from  a 
tiny  shell  hook  less  than  half  an  inch  across  to  the 
large  wooden  shark  hook  that  was  always  baited  with 
human  fiesh.  Among  these  are  the  great  platters 
made  from  alapainui,  saturated  with  the  l)lood  of 
many  a  slave  fatted  to  make  himself  useful  as  shark 
bait. 

Man  cannot  live  to  eat  and  work  only  ;  he  must 
have  play,  and  by  the  playthings  here  it  will  be  in- 
ferred that  tlie  old  Hawaiians  had  their  share  of 
amusements.  Many  of  these  were  athletic  sports  of 
the  finest  kind.  Would  that  the  youth  of  the 
present  day  could  roll  the  ulumaika  with  the  zest 
they  put  into  the  far  inferior  base  ball ;  ride  the  surf- 
board as  easily  as  they  ride  the  bicycle,  and  hurl  an 
ihe  or  spear  as  powerfully  as  did  the  contemporaries 
of  Kamehameha  I.  Here  is  a  spherical  ulu  of  good 
workmanship,  weighing  twenty-two  pounds,  that 
would  exhaust  a  modern  bowler.  But  while  the  men 
were  sliding  down   hill   on  the  holua,  the   women 


26 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 


were  making  feather  cloaks  or  braiding  the  strands 
of  human  hair  for  leis  in  a  way  far  superior  to  any 
other  braid  of  hair  found  in  the  Pacific. 

Here  are  Hawaiian  adzes  in  astonishing  variety 
from  the  rudely  chipped  block  to  the  finely  finished 
tool,  and  with  these  are  the  grind-stones  on   which 

the  patient 
adz  maker 
sharpen e  d 
the  stone. 
To  go  to  ex- 
t  r  e  m  e  s  we 
pass  from  the 
very  solid 
stone  adz, 
most  durable 
of  relics,  to 
a  n  article 
which  is  pro- 
V  e  r  b  i  a  1 1  y 

flimsy  and  ephemeral,  a  woman's  hat.  Here  are 
half  a  hundred  made  of  a  great  varietv  of  material 
from  shavings  to  bean  pods.  Those  of  loulu  and 
hako  are  especially  fine  and  suggest  the  desiral)ility 
of  a  larger  manufacture  than  at  present  obtains. 

Turning  from  these  islands  to  the  more  extensive 
region  tliat  the  plan  of  the  museum  embraces, 
there  are  several  departments  where  the  museum  is 


NUUANU  STREET— LOOKING  UP. 


AROUND  THE  "SVORLD 


as  rich  as  in  specimens  simply  Hawaiian.  Of 
Maori  implements  and  manufactures  there  is  a  re- 
markably complete  and  valuable  series.  So  of  Fiji, 
while  the  Martjuesas  and  Society  Islands  are  hardly 
represented  at  all.  Micronesia  is  here  in  force,  so 
are  New  Guinea  and  Solomon  Islands,  and  there  is 
a  fair  show  of  Australian  implements. 

In  the  picture  gallery  the  portraits,  although  often 
far  from  artistic  work,  are  interesting  from  their  sub- 
jects, the  Kings,  Queens  and  Alii  of  Hawaii.  The 
photographs  are  very  instructive,  but  strangely,  the 
poorest  of  these  are  those  of  Hawaiians. 

Among  the  relics  is  the  silver  teapot  gi\en  to 
Madame  Boki  by  the  King  of  England,  also  the  one 
sent  to  Kaahumanu,  and  the  large  silvei'  cup  given 
by  Queen  Victoria  to  her  sister-Queen  Emma.  Far 
more  interesting  than  these  is  a  bit  of  looking  glass 
given  Ijy  Vancouver  to  Kamehameha  I,  and  which 
doubtless  has  reflected  the  faces  of  Hawaii's  greatest 
chiefs;  as  if  conscious  of  this  it  now  refuses  to  re- 
flect any  more. 

Honolulu's  System  of  Water  Sui'ply  consists  of 
one  intermediate  reservoir  and  three  storage  basins  in 
Nuuanu  Valley,  and  one  at  the  entrance  of  Makiki 
Valley  (fed  l)y  the  streams  and  springs  of  the  neigh- 
borhood), with  a  combined  capacity  of  40,369,937 
gallons,  and  five  flowing  artesian  wells  of  seven  and 


28 


FKOM    INDEPENDENCE   HALL 


five-eighths  inches  bore  connect  iiig  with  the  mains  in 
the  eastern  part  of  the  city  and  Waikiki. 

The  street  mains  comprise  nearly  thirty-six  and  a 
half  miles  of  pipe,  divided  as  follows: 

One  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  twenty-four  inch :  100 
feet,  sixteen  inch:  10,300  feet,  fifteen  inch;  27,560 
feet,  twelve  inch:  1000  feet,  ten  inch:  31,790  feet, 
six  inch:  6220  feet,  five  inch:  69,574  feet,  four 
inch:  17,285  feet,  three  inch ;  8167  feet,  two  inch; 
a  total  of  192,586  feet. 

At  the  last  report  of  the  Superintendent  of  Water 
Works  for  the  Legislature  of  1892  there  were  2109 
privileges  supplied  by  the  above  system,  at  rates 
ranging  from  .$5.00  to  |320.00  per  annum,  produ- 
cing an  annual  income  of  over  |42,000. 


AROrND  THE   WORLD 


29 


FROM  HONOLULU  ( Lat.  21°,  18   North) 
To  YOKOHAMA  (Lat.  35^  26   North). 


Distance,  ;>420  miles. 

Time,  12  days. 

Fare,  first-clasis,  slOU. 


DlFFERKNCK    IN   CloC'K 

Philadeljihia,  12  Noou. 
Sail  Fraueiseo,  9  A.  M. 
Honolulu,  6.80  A.  M. 
Yokohama,  2  A.  M. 


HE  enterprise  of  our  inercbants 
lias  been  fully  developed  and 
attested  on  the  Western  Ocean. 
There  are  two  lines  from  San 
Francisco  to  Honolulu,  Japan 
and  Hong  Kong. 

Both  are  American  and  they 

work    in  concert.     The  Occidental 

and  Oriental  have  a   powerful  and 

celebrated  Heet.     Th.e   Pacific  Mail 

Steamship    Company    operates   the 

following: 

The  China,  City  of  Pekin,  City  of  Rio   .Janeiro, 

Peru,  City  of  Sydney,  Colima  Acapulco,  Colon,  San 

Bias,   San    Jose,   San    Juan,   Costa    Pica,  Starbuck, 

Barracouta. 

Besides  these  the  same  Company   runs  upon  the 


30 


FROM  IXDEPENDENCE   HALL 


Atlantic  the  Newport,  City  of  Para,  the  Coliimhia. 
and  the  Miller  Griffith  (a  tug).  "The  China,"  the 
Queen  of  the  fleet,  is  45(5  feet  long,  of  5000  tonnage, 
and    SOOO   horse-power.     She  was  built  in  1889,  at 


PILE  DWELLINGS  AT  TOKIO. 


Glasgow  under  the  supervision  of  Captain  W'm.  B. 
Seaburv,  and  cost  nearly  a  million  of  dollars.  Our 
country  has  reason  to  be  proud  of  Captain  Seabury. 
He  is  now  in  the  very  prime  of  life  and  vigor,  although 
he  has  seen  thirtv-eight  vearsof  hard  service,  twentv- 


AROUND   THE   WORLD  81 

nine  years  of  w  liidi  ii;i\e  l)eeii  with  the  Pacific  M.  S- 
Company.  Think  of  this  sea  rceor.!  :  seven  times 
round  Ca|)e  Horn  hefore  he  was  21:  nine  years  in 
saiHng  ships,  101  round  voyages  from  New  York  to 
Colon,  fifty  six  \'oy ages  from  >San  Francisco  to  Ijritish 
Columhia,  five  from  New  York  to  Sydney,  many 
from  San  Francisco  to  Panama  and  hack  and  from 
San  Francisco  to  Cliina  and  hack  one  from  New 
York  to  San  Franvisco  through  the  straits  of  Magel- 
lan, one  from  Ghisgow  tlirough  tlie  Mediterranean 
and  the  Sue/  Canal  to  Ilong  Kong. 

The  Clock  Ti.mio  at  Ska. —  One  does  not  need  to 
travel  over  tlie  sea  in  order  to  realize  the  changes 
of  the  watch. 

A  journey  from  i*hiladcl[)hia  to  Cliicago  throws 
every  time-piece  an  hour  ahead,  for  noon  at  the 
starting  point  will  l)c  11  A.  M.  in  the  western  city. 
So  if  the  race  with  the  sun  l)e  continued  to  San 
Francisco,  the  noon  of  home  will  hecome  9  A.  M.  at 
the  Pacific.  Proceeding  on  to  Honolulu  the  dis- 
crepancy increases,  noon  of  Philadelphia  is  6.30  A. 
M.  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  at  Yokohama  the 
home  mid-day  is  2  A.  M. 

It  is  clear,  therefore,  that  one  can  exchange  noon 
for  midnight  if  he  only  travel  far  enough.  At  that 
moment  he  passes  to  another  day  in  iiis  calendar. 
This  is  what  must  be  understood  by  the  common 
expressions   "gaining  a  day,"   '"losing  a  day."      In 


32 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE  HAI.L 


fact,  no  (lay  is  gained  nor  lost.  The  day  remains, 
but  by  an  absolute  law  of  navigation  a  correction  of 
time  must  be  made.  It  was  said  to  the  writer  that 
"out  somewhere  in  tlie  Pacific  a  day  was  dropped  or 
"the  same  dav  was  twice  counted."   But  the  locality 


^ 


A  JINRIKSHAW. 


of  this  "somewhere"  and  the  details  of  the  opera- 
tion can  neyer  be  understood,  or  explained,  saye  by 
actual  experiment.  We  all  understand  that  the 
circle  is  marked  to  contain  360  degrees,  whereof  ISO 
degrees  are,  of  course,  the  half.     For  the  purposes 


AROUND   THK   WOKI,D 


33 


of  navigation  most  civilized  nations  calculate  from 
the  meridian  of  ( !re('n^^"ic•ll.  A  steamer  going  west 
from  Honolulu  towards  Yokohama  may  approach 
the  180°  ivcst  of  (ireenwich  on  her  fourth  day  from 


SETTINU  OIT  FOR  A  JOURNEY  IN  A  "  KANGA." 

the  Sandwich  Islands.  Suppose  that  fourth  day  to 
be  Saturday,  November  18,  1894,  and  that  the  180° 
fvest  is  crossed  at  11  A.  M.  of  that  day.  As  there  is 
no  181°  west,  the  hour  the  vessel  crosses  the  line  of 
180°  u'esf  she  finds  herself,  accoriling  to  her  map 
approaching  the  179°  ectfit  of  Greenwich.    Therefore 


34  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALT. 

she  must  chaiit>;e  her  dav  to  (Treenwich  time.  At 
Greenwich  it  is  not  Saturday,  November  18,  but 
Sunday,  November  19.  1S94.  The  shiji  accordingly 
drops  Saturday,  calls  it  Sunday  and  thus  goes  on. 

An  English  writer,  the  celebrated  Lieutenant 
Leckey,  lias  published  a  very  learned  and  interest- 
ing work  entitled  ••Wrinkles  in  Practical  Naviga- 
tion." He  explains  this  somewhat  puzzling  rule 
very  clearly:  "Going  east  or  west  round  the  world 
"there  will  he  no  real  gain  or  loss  of  a  day." 
Otherwise  a  man,  by  continually  sailing  round  east, 
might  be  considered — from  the  frequent  repetition 
of  a  day  wliich  it  entailed — to  have  lived  longer 
than  anotlier  who  stopped  at  home.  In  tlie  ca.se  of 
tlie  traveller  he  only  appears  to  gain  a  day,  as  each 
one  of  those  he  has  lived  whilst  on  his  journey  has 
been  shorter  by  a  certain  number  of  minutes  which 
has  arisen  from  the  difference  of  longitude  traversed 
between  two  consecutive  arrivals  of  the  sun  on  his 
meridian  whilst  the  day  of  the  man  who  remained 
behind  has  always  contained  the  complete  twenty- 
four  hours. 

Aaain,  if  two  men,  A  and  B,  started  at  the  same 
instant  on  a  journey  round  the  world,  the  first  going 
east  and  the  other  west,  and  neither  made  any 
alteration  in  their  dates  from  time  of  setting  out 
until  their  return,  together,  on  the  same  day,  this  is 
what    would    happen:     A  would    believe    he    had 


AROUND  THE  WORLD  85 

arrived,  say  on  Sunday,  and  B  would  persist  in  con- 
sidering it  as  Friday.  Tliere  would  be  a  difference 
of  two  whole  daN's  in  their  reckoning,  hut  no  one 
would  seriously  entertain  the  idea  that  on  this  ac- 
count A  had  lived  forty-eight  hours  longer  than  B. 

The  actual  day  of  the  week  would,  of  course,  be 
Saturday,  and  the  actual  time  occupied  by  each  on 
the  journey  would  be  precisely  the  same." 

The  SxEERAGE.-The  Chinese  have  a  strong  attach- 
ment for  their  New  Years  day,  which  comes  round 
in  February.  To  guard  against  the  inability  of  our 
ships  to  carry  an  immense  multitude  the  Orientals 
start  early  on  their  home  pilgrimage.  Hence  in 
November  the  Steamship  "  China  "  left  San  Fran- 
cisco with  over  600  Chinese  and  received  200  more 
at  Honolulu.  The}'  pay  $51  a  head  for  the  voyage 
from  San  Francisco  to  Hong  Kong.  They  sleep  on 
shelves — males  separate  from  females.  How  they 
manage  to  live  seems  a  marvel.  The  visit  to  their 
crowded  c{uarters  makes  a  strong  impression  on  the 
memory  and  on  the  olfactories.  The  troo})  is  divided 
into  companies  of  ten.  They  select  a  commissary.  He 
obtains  a  ticket  from  the  steward — presents  it  when 
he  receives  the  rations  and  gets  it  l>ack  when  he 
returns  the  vessels.  There  are  no  tables — no  chairs. 
They  sit  or  squat  on  the  deck,  help  themselves  from 
the  tilled  tins  each  commissary  brings  to  his  mess 
by  ladling   a   portion    into   their  cups.     Then  they 


36 


FROM   INDEPENDENCK   JIALL 


eat,   laugh   and  chat   in  the   most  contented  man- 


ner. 


Tlie    supplies    are    well     cooked    and    from    the 
aviditv  with  which  the  articles  are  consumed  thev 


A  JAPANESE  RELIGIOUS   SERVICE. 

must  be  palatable.  But  to  our  eyes  the  food  seems 
to  be  curious  and  unknown.  There  are  three  meals 
served  in  this  fashion  per  diem.  The  breakfast  is  at 
7.     It  consists  of  l:)eef,  cabbage,  beans,  pickled  ginger, 


AHorXI)   THE   WORLD  37 

orange  peel  tea.  Luhl-Ii  t-oines  at  12,  of  sliriinps, 
vermicelli  soup,  beef,  rice,  tea.  Supper  is  at  4.  It 
is  composed  of  beau  card,  cabbage,  potatoes  and 
beef  stew,  dried  turnips,  salt  peas,  pickled  onions, 
rice  and  tea.  Sometimes  duck  eggs  are  served. 
Tliese  have  been  preserved  in  coatings  of  yellow  or 
I'lack  earth.  The  boast  is  made  that  these  cover- 
ings keep  the  eggs  fresh.  l>ut  this  is  not  always 
the  result.  Nor  indeed  do  all  the  Chinese  so  desire 
it  to  be.  (3ne  ^^•ill  take  a  very  rotten  egg  and  refuse 
it.  Another  will  pick  it  up,  and  devour  it— saying, 
"Ahl  All!  Inglee  man  take  cheesee  all  maggots 
good  in  mouth.     I  likee  black  eggee." 

So  forcil^le  is  the  example  of  the  great! 

The  supplies  cost  the  ship  ten  cents  a  day  per  capita. 

Living  ix  .Japan. — Persons  who  find  the  climate 
of  our  Eastern  States  annoying  and  who  are  seeking 
for  more  congenial  spots  may  well  consider  Hawaii 
and  Japan.  The  former  is  warmer  Init  has  less 
excitement  and  attraction.  The  south  coast  of  Japan 
has  its  season  of  slight  snow  falls  and  demanding 
tires,  but  it  is  never  troubled  with  severe  frosts.  The 
lover  of  skating  has  been  known  to  shade  a  small 
piece  of  water  with  mats  to  keep  off  the  sun  and  to 
secure  a  very  thin  ice  on  which  to  try  his  skill.  This 
countrv  has  also  the  advantage  of  maiiv  foreian 
vessels,  of  telegraphs,  of  cheap  living  and  of  harm- 


88 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 


less  (?)  eartlKjuakes.  Although  many  thousands  w^re 
destroyed  a  few  years  ago  yet  visitors  have,  it  is  said, 
regretted  that  there  was  no  shock  during  their  stay. 


A  JAPANESE  FAMILY  AT  MEAL  TLME. 

Many  of  the  houses  are  so  1)uilt  as  to  guard 
against  destruction  and  it  is  alleged  that  no 
foreigners  have  ever  been  killed.  Living  is  very 
cheap,  coal  and  some  necessaries  very  dear,  but 
what  we  call  luxuries  are  at  very  moderate  rates. 

Then  your  gold  commands  nearly  two   to  one  in 
Japanese  dollars  (called  yens). 


AROUND   THE   WORJ.D  39 

MiUiy  walk  with  wooden  sandals  raised  several 
inches  from  the  ground  Ijy  tw^o  upright  narrow 
strips  running  across  the  soles.  These  shoes  make 
a  curious  noise  and  enforce  a  mincing  gait. 

The  hotel  waiters  move  across  the  floors  in  socks. 


A  JAPANESE  TAILOR  SHOP. 

In  their  little  sitting  rooms  they  have  a  few  live 
coals  to  keep  their  feet  warm.  It  is  stated  that  no 
Japanese  enters  a  house  wearing  the  shoes  used  on 
the  street.  These  are  always  left  at  the  door  and 
slippers  sul)stituted.  Obviously  the  object  is  cleanli- 
3 


40 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE  HALL 


ness.  The  men  seem  so  far  as  legs  are  concerned  to 
l)elong  to  different  races.  The  waiters  are  about  5 
feet  high,  and  their  lower  limbs  are  not  only  very 
thin,  but  as  if  this  were  a  matter  of  pride  they  are 

encased  in  tightly 
fitting  trousers  show- 
ing the  attenuations 
to  the  greatest  ad- 
vantage. 

Yet  the  outsiders 
are  large  and  the 
[)ull-men  have  mus- 
cular calves.  I  give 
this  name  to  the 
jinrikishaw  pushers. 
Cabs  are  very  scarce- 
In  place  of  them  one 
finds  in  front  of  the 
hotels,  the  stations 
and  other  places,  a 
little  gig,  large 
enough  for  only  one 
person,  seat  low  down 
and  baby  shafts  in 
front.  It  looks  like  a  toy  conveyance.  It  is  called  a 
inrikisha.  The  name  means  man  puller.  The 
traveller  must  be  cautious  lest  an  untimely  slip  of  this 
new  horse  should  throw  the  shafts  up  and  pitch  the 


GROUP  OF  JAPANESE  LADIES. 


AROUND   THE   WORLD  41 

occupant  out  backward.  Some  such  accident  has 
been  exhibited  l)y  a  clever  artist  whose  picture  hangs 
as  a  warning  at  the  hotel  door.  The  man  who 
drags  you  thus  along  has  no  covering  below  the 
knees;  is  clad  in  drawers  and  a  loose  coat  coming  to 
the  hips.  His  head  is  covered  with  a  light  hat 
looking  exactly  like  an  inverted  wash  basin  with  a 
broad  brim.  His  trot  is  an  even  jog.  In  the  city 
on  smooth  macadamized  streets  the  work  is  no 
slight  affair.  In-  the  country  where  the  highways 
are  narrow  and  worn  occasionally  into  deep  seams 
the  labor  is  great,  always  aggravated  when  a  rain 
creates  mud.  The  pa}^  for  this  hard  work  is  very 
small — only  15  cents  an  hour. 

A  guide  receives  two  yens  (|2)  a  day  and  finds 
himself.  Allowing  for  the  large  premium  on  our 
money,  the  uncertainties  of  constant  employment, 
the  necessity  for  a  respectable  appearance,  etc.,  the 
wages  seem  very  small. 

The  rikshaw,  as  it  is  generally  pronounced,  is  not 
the  only  peculiarity  of  the  Japanese  laborer.  He 
builds  his  houses  generally  with  an  inside  shell  (to 
guard  against  the  dreaded  earthquakes),  often  with- 
out nails;  the  plane  and  the  saw  are  drawn  towards 
the  workman;  mills  are  disliked  and  hand-power  is 
the  favoiite. 


42 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALT. 


Yokohama. —  This  city,  although  regarded  by 
many  foreigners  as  the  hu'gest  in  Japan,  is  really 
inferior  in  })opulation  to  many  of  her  sisters.     It  is 


iiili mi 


m, 


■tii;^pu0miiilWi^^! 


:^saM^- 


YOKOHAMA— A   GLIMPSE  OF  THE  WATER  FRONT. 

merely  the  principal  treaty  port  opened  to  foreigners 
in  1859.  It  is  well  situated  on  a  large  bay.  Its 
harbor  is  protected  }jy  a  break-water.  Tlie  streets 
are  well  laid  out  and  macadamized.  Some  of  the 
buildings   seem   to  have  been  constructed    without 


AROUND  thp:  world  43 

any  tear  of  earthquakL's  l)efore  the  eyes  of  the 
owners.  Amongst  these  one  notiees  the  Grand 
Hotel,  Domestie  Missions  and  Pul)lie  Buildings. 
The  picturesque  a})pearanee  of  Yokohama  is  en- 
hanced by  the  volcano  Fusi-Yama,  visible,  though  at 
a  great  distance,  in  clear  weather.  Its  summit  is 
snow  capped  and  it  is  said  to  Ije  13,000  feet  high. 

The  Grand  Hotel  well  deserves  its  name.  It  is 
two  stories  high,  facing  the  broad  street  and  the  bay, 
with  a  splendid  gar<len  and  fountain  in  the  rear. 
The  large  dining  room  with  its  mountains  of  chrys- 
anthenuims  is  a  very  pleasing  sight,  and  jNIr.  Louis 
Eppinger  is  all  that  could  l)e  desired  of  a  courteous 
and  ol)liging  manager. 

Dai-Butsu. — In  the  grounds  of  the  "Ko-toku-in  " 
(Jodo  Sect)  Monastery  of  Kamakura,  situated  l)ut  a 
short  distance  from  the  village  of  Hase  and  the  sea- 
coast,  is  preserved  one  of  the  most  remarkable  repre- 
sentations of  the  Buddha  which  Japan  has  produced, 
an  image  so  perfect  that  it  is  regarded  as  the  culmi- 
nation of  the  art  of  bronze-casting  in  that  country. 

The  name,  Dai-Butsu,  is  given  to  a  colossal  repre- 
sentation of  Buddah.  There  are  many  of  these 
images  in  Japan.  A  description  of  one  will  suffice 
for  all,  the  differences  not  being  worthy  of  special 
note.  The  nearest  to  Yokohama  is  to  be  found 
within  a  short  distance  of  Kamakara.     This  place 


< 

1/5 

Q 
Z 
< 

z 

r 

H 

z 

o 

< 

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CQ 
< 

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< 

o 

Oi 

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z 

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< 

< 

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i7) 

D 
u. 


AKOUND  THE   WORLD  45 

is  re;u-lu'(l  l>y  rail  and  is  al)ont  fourtoen  miles  (one 
hour)  from  Yokohama.  Thr  I'ide  is  wrv  interestino; 
to  the  strangei'.  Tlie  scenery  is  heautifiilly  inter- 
spersed with  mountains  and  fertile  valleys.  The 
Japanese  seem  to  understand  the  art  of  irrigation. 
They  do  not  dig  deep  ditches  round  their  fields, 
leaving  the  water  to  tind  its  way  to  tlie  cr(j[)s,  Init 
they  make  sure  of  every  drop.  The  ground  is  cut 
into  small  sipiares,  triangles,  etc.  The  hottom  is 
then  scraped  to  the  side  and  hanked  up.  Thus  the 
land  is  covered  with  a  (piantity  of  earth  l)asiiis 
vai-ying  in  size  h'om  a  jterch  to  tive  acres.  The 
water  is  then  let  on  to  the  ground  and  there  it 
stands,  making  no  trenches,  hut  hundreds  of  little 
lakes.  Here  fioui'ish  the  rice,  tlie  hamhoo,  and  all 
their  crops,  in  great  luxuriance. 

The  soil  needs  no  plough.  The  farmer  wields  an 
instrument  like  our  adze.  But  the  handle  is  lonir 
and  the  l)lade  very  deep.  Struck  into  the  ground 
it  turns  up  an  immense  clod. 

The  houses  in  the  villages  are  very  quaint.  They 
are  huilt  like  the  English  cottages  with  enormous 
thatching  for  roots  and  sometimes  a  crop  growing  on 
the  very  crest. 

The  Dai-Butsu  is  a  mammoth  figui'e  sitting  on 
stone.  At  first  constructed  of  wood,  tlie  [)resent 
bronze  image  was  substituted  perhaps  six  centuries 
ago.     It  stood  in  a  spacious  temple  destroyed  about 


46 


FROM   INDEPENDENCK  HALI. 


four  luiudivd  years  since  l)v  an  iimiidation.  The 
foiuidation.s  and  the  Dai-Butsu  remain.  It  represents 
Buddah   seated,  his  hands    meeting'  in    front.      The 


THE  DAl-BUTSU. 


expression  of  tlie  eyes  and  lace  is  very  pleasing.  The 
figure  is  liollow.  A  small  opening  at  tlie  corner  of 
the   foundation    })ermits   an    entrance.      Inside  is   a 


AROUND  THE   WORLD  47 

ladder  l)y  which  you  can  ascend  to  tlie  nock.  From 
your  perch  you  see  a  gilded  image  in  the  head  and 
three  gilded  figures  on  a  shelf.  It  is  re})orted  in  the 
books  that  tlie  eyes  are  of  pure  gold,  etc.  But  the 
sockets  a})pear  to  he  em})ty. 

Murray  in  his  hand-book  savs  : 


"  The  DAI-BUTSU,  or  GREAT  BUDDAH,  staudn  aloue 
"among  Jajianese  works  of  art.  No  other  gives  such  an 
"  impression  of  luajesty,  or  so  truly  symbolizes  the  central 
"  idea  of  Buddhism,  the  intellectual  calm  which  comes  of 
"  perfected  knowledge  and  the  subjugation  of  all  passion." 

Mr.  Bayard  Taylor  says  in  his  work  "  Ja])an  in 
Our  Day,"  that  "The  :\I()nument  dedicated  to  Dai- 
Butsu,  that  is,  the  Great  Buddha,  may  l)e  considered 
as  the  most  complete  work  of  the -fajianese  genius,  in 
regard  l)oth  to  art  and  to  the  religious  sentiment 
.  .  .  a  gigantic  seated  divinity  of  bronze,  with 
folded  hands  and  head  gently  inclined  in  an  atti- 
tude of  contemplative  ecstasy.  .  .  .  There  is  an 
irresistible  charm  in  the  i)0sture  of  Dai-Butsu,  in  the 
harnrony  of  his  bodily  jiroportions,  in  the  noble 
simplicity  of  his  drapery,  and  in  the  cahnness  and 
serenity  of  his  countenance." 

Mr.  A.  C.  Maclay,  A.  M.,  L.  L.  B.,  in  "  A  Budget 
of  Letters  from  Japan,"  says:  "  The  Dai-Butsu  sits 
there  in  the  o]ten  air,  his  head  looming  above  the 
pine  trees,  and  his  face  turned   toward  the  peaceful 


48 


FROM  INDEPENDENCE   HADI. 


waters    of   the     ocean,    typical     of    the    dreamless 
Nirvana." 

Mr.    Percival  Lowell    says  in  "  Tlie  Soul  of  the 
Far  East,"  "The  Kaniakura  Buddlia,  ...   in  whose 


YOKOHAMA.     A  GLIMPSF  OF  THE  FOREIGN  QLIARTER. 


face  all  tliat  is  grand  and  no])le  lies  sleeping,  the 
living  re})resentation  of  Nirvana." 

Dr.  C.  Dresser,  Ph.  D.,  F.  L.  S.,  etc.,  in  "Japan- 
Its  Architecture,"  says:  "  Tlie  tigure  sits  in  dignified 
repose  with  a  most  placid  ex])ression  of  conntenanec. 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


49 


TOKIO— A  TRAVELING  SHRINE  AND  ITINHRANT  CHOIR. 


,50  FROM   lNDEPK>fDENCK   HAJ-L 

From  its  t'orehea<l  protrude?^  a  l)OS.s  representing  a 
jewel  from  which  light  is  sup})ose(l  to  flow,  and 
Avhicli  synil)olizes  an  idea  sirnihir  to  that  expressed 
in  our  Scriptures,   'I  am  the  Liglit   of  the  World.'" 

The  priests  in  charge  of  the  monastery  declare 
that  it  is  their  endeavor  to  preser\e  and  enil)ellish 
the  Inuiiie  and  Church  and  to  raise  a  suitahle  edifice 
to  contain  the  Dai-Butsu  ami  protect  it  from  the 
ravages  of  time  and  the  effects  of  the  weather  so  they 
may  faitlifidly  liand  down  and  transmit  to  })0sterity 
this  relic  of  media?val  days  which  they  have 
received  h-om  their  predecessors  as  a  precious  and 
sacred  National  trust,  and  it  is  theivfore  ho})ed  that 
in  the  interest  of  Religion,  Art  and  History  alike, 
all  visitors  will  kindly  make  some  contrihution  to 
the  huilding  fund,  as  Japan  is  not  a  rich  country, 
and  to  collect  a  sum  of  money  suthcient  to  carry 
out  the  ol»ject  successfully  is  at  hest  a  \\ork  of  many 
years,  especially  when  it  is  home  in  nnnd  that  the 
Meiji  Govei'nnient  has  conhscated  all  ecclesiastical 
possessions  and  disestablished  the  lUidilhist  church, 
thereby  lea\-ing  the  |)riests  well-nigh  penniless. 

There  has  l)een  a  temple  in  this  place  since  the 
eighth  centui'y,  l»ut  the  image  is  of  nnicli  later  date. 
Its  precise  history  is  in\'ol\ed  in  olis^'urity.  Tra- 
dition, however,  says  that  the  Shogun  Yoritomo, 
when  taking  part  in  the  dedication  of  the  restored 
Dai-Butsu  at  Nara.  1U»5  A.   D.,   to   which   place  he 


z 

< 

a. 
< 


O 

f- 

< 
m 
Z 

UJ 

-J 
X, 
•S. 

H 

O 

H 
Z 

I 


52  FROM   INDEPENDECE  HALL 

liad  l)een  .summoned  \>y  the  Emperor  to  supervise 
tlie  ceremony,  conceived  the  desire  of  havin"'  a  simi- 
hir  oljject  of  worship  at  his  own  Capital,  hut  (hed 
l)efore  lie  could  put  his  plan  into  execution.  One  of 
his  waiting  ladies,  Itano,  undertook  to  collect  funds 
for  the  purpose,  resigned  her  appointment,  and 
with  the  cordial  ajiproval  of  Masago  and  the  Shogun 
Yoritsugu,  worked  with  such  devotion  of  heart  that 
in  1224  A.  D.,  the  priest,  Joko  (who  had  collected 
money  far  antl  wide)  with  the  permission  of  the 
Emperor,  was  enal)led  to  commence  the  first  image 
(which  was  of  wood)  and  it  was  completed  in  1238 
A.  D.  A  splendid  chapel  was  also  constructed  here. 
In  the  autumn  of  1243  A.  D.,  the  chapel  was  over- 
thrown hv  a  miglitv  storm  and  the  image  seriouslv 
damaged.  Again  Itano  bestirred  herself  in  the  work, 
Ijeing  assisted  by  the  Shogun,  who  provided  the 
metal  to  cast  a  bronze  image,  and  restored  the 
Temple  in  all  its  former  splendor. 

The  image  was  commenced  in  the  fourth  year  of 
Kencho,  the  eighth  month  and  the  seventeenth  day, 
and  the  founder  was  Ono,  an  artificer  of  Yanamura, 
in  the  county  of  Moda,  province  of  Kadzusa. 

Tliis  was  the  first  time  that  such  a  marvellous 
piece  of  metal  work  had  Ijeen  thus  successfully 
attempted  in  Japan,  and  the  perfect  artistic  mastery 
of  form  and  true  beautv  and   arandeur  of  outline 


AROrXI)   THE   WOKI.I) 


53 


which  cliaracterizes  Ono's  master-piece,  is  a  wonder- 
ful triuiii}>h  of  Japanese  Glyptic  Art. 

The  Temple  was  completely  destroyed  hy  storms 
twice,  once  in  1335  A.  D.,  and  onee  in  1369  A.  D., 
hut  \\"as  repaired.  Again  in  14!)o  A.  D.,  tlie  huild- 
ings  were  swept  away  liy  a  tidal  \\a\-c,  l)Ut  thistiuie 
the  priests  were  unalde  to  raise  funds  for  their 
restoration  and  only  the  image  and  tlie  stone  founda- 
tions of  the  church  were  left. 

In  the  period  1711-171-3  a  Buddhist  Archbishop 
named  Yuten  rebuilt  the  priest's  residence  and  a 
certain  Nojima  Yasuke  furnished  money  liberally 
and  presented  votive  bronze  lanterns  and  various 
ornaments  to  the  church,  but  the  funds  failed  and  the 
work  of  complete  restoration  was  abandoned. 

The  Measurements  of  the  Dai-Butsu  are: 


Height  .... 

Circuiiiference 
Length  of  face 
Width  from  ear  to  ear 
Round  white  boss  ou  forehead 
Lengtli  of  eye 
Length  of  eyebrow 
"  ear 

"       "  nose 

"        "  mouth 
Height  of  bump  of  wisdom 
Diameter  of  bumji  (jf  wisdom 
Curls  I  of  which  there  are  830):  Height 

"         "       "       "      Diameter 
lieugtli  from  linee  to  knee     . 
Circumference  of  thumb  (say) 


Ft. 

Ix. 

.     49 

7.00 

97 

2.120 

.       <S 

•5. 15 

.     17 

9.20 

.       1 

3.47 

O 

11.60 

.       4 

1.93 

6 

6.54 

.       3 

9.22 

.       3 

2.08 

9  52 

2 

4.56 

9.52 

11.90 

.    :\o 

8.40 

.       3 

0.00 

54  FROM  INDEPENDENCE   HALL, 

The  eyes  were  pure  gold  and  the  silver  boss 
weighed  thirty  pounds  avoirdupois.  The  image  is 
formed  of  sheets  of  bronze  cast  separately,  brazed 
together  and  finished  off  on  the  outside  with  the 
chisel. 


[The  following  is  a  copy  of  an  Ode  sold  at  Karaakura  by  the  Priests.] 

Natsu-kusa  ya  Tsuwamono  Domo  no  Yume  no  ato.^ 

Basho. 


City  of  dreamland,  ruined  and  sad, 
Once  home  of  a  people  joyous  and  glad. 
All  that  is  left,  "  a  tale" that  is  told," 
Temples  dismantled  and  monuments  cold. 

Ashes  to  ashes,  dust  to  dust, 
Glory  departed,  swords  turned  to  rust. 
Weeds,  all  that  is  left  of  hearts  brave  and  gay 
Who  'erst  to  the  battle  went  marching  awa.y. 

Citadel  perished,  towers  fallen  away, 
Fortress  and  temple  doomed  to  decay. 
Courtier  and  warrior  in  panoply  bright 
Passed  like  a  shadowy  dream  of  the  night. 

Oh  Buddha  Eternal !  Thus  come  we  and  go. 

Fleeting  is  matter,  "  Sho-gyo-muj<h  "  ^ 
Such  were  thy  words,  ''  What  waxeth  must  wane," 
After  calm  there  is  storm,  after  sunshine  the  rain. 
"  Naught  is  a  permanence,"  glory  but  show 

That  leads  to  destruction,  "  Zesho  Meppo."' 

^  A  dream  of  the  past!  In  place  of  warriors,  the'grass  and 
plants  of  summer. 

-  All  phenomena  are  evanescent. 

^  They  are  subject  to  the  law  of  growth  and  decay. 


2 

< 
r- 

5 
< 


o 
f- 


56 


FKOM    INDEPENDENCE   HAJ.L 


■•^  ,^^;>St/ 


OKIO— Foniierly  Yed- 
i)(),  the  capital  of  the 
Em})ire,  requires  a  \'isit, 
ahhouuh  tlie  expendi- 
ture of  tiuie,  uuiscle  and 
Miouey  finds  hut  little 
reward,  the  usually  false 
^^^^'^   ^  coloring  of    hooks    and 

the  cackle  of  travellers 
to  the  contrary.  Those  who  have  })lenty  of  time, 
money  and  curiosity,  yet  })0ssessing  little  l»rains, 
make  it  a  vital  point  to  laud  everything  they 
have  seen  and  sometimes  that  they  have  not 
seen.  This  in  their  judgment  magnifies  their  own 
importance.  Then  they  encounter  a  traveller  for 
rest  or  for  health,  wdio  has  hut  a  sliort  vacation  and 
wants  simply  to  see  a  little  in  order  to  hreak  the 
ennui  of  desired  repose,  they  pounce  u})on  him  as  a 
fair  victim.  He  must  see  tlm,  he  should  on  no 
account  miss  ilmi,  is  it  possihle  he  has  come  such  a 
distance  and  is  to  omit  the  other?  To  the  class  of 
traveling  nuisquitoes  just  descrihed,  the  omission  to 
visit  Tokio  would  he  little  short  of  high  treason. 
Yet  like  many  enforced  routines  it  does  not  pay.  It 
is  a  very  large  city,  prettily  situated  on  a  hay.  It 
recalls  John  Randolph's  sarcasm  on  our  capital  as  a 
city  of  magnificent  distances.     Sonic  descrihe   it  as 


AROUND  THE   WORI^D 


57 


twenty-four  miles  in  eirciiniference,  otliers  say  it  is 
ten  miles  square.  Standino-  on  Atago-yama  (a  hill) 
the    town    seems   to  he  of  huge   pro])ortions.     The 


TOKIO-A  \  IhW  UN  THt  OL  ISKIRTS  OF  THE  CITY. 

streets  are  generally  wide.  It  has  a  large  and  husy 
population,  possesses  one  line  of  omnilmsses  and  a 
tram  road. 


58  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL, 

The  horses  are  few  and  very  thin.  Occasionally 
3'ou  see  a  large  ox  pulling-  a  load.  The  thousands 
of  houses  are  of  frame  two  stories  liigh.  There  is  a 
splendid  castle,  fine  government  buildings,  an 
Imperial  Hotel  that  well  deserves  its  name,  old 
walls  and  moat,  new  walls  and  moat,  two  parks, 
Sheba  and  Veno  (pronounced  Wayno),  a  museum, 
tomb  of  Shogun  and  a  number  of  temples.  It  may 
safely  be  stated  that  all  of  these  might  l:)e  omitted 
by  the  sight-seer  without  occasioning  a  regret.  But 
if  a  Pagoda  is  new  to  him,  he  will  tind  one  here.  It 
is  a  very  interesting  structure,  not  large  nor  high, 
vet  to  an  American  verv  attractive.  It  is  red.  Tlie 
large  projecting  roofs,  five  in  number,  are  covered 
with  what  looks  like  tiling.  Bells  hang  from  each 
corner.     Carvings  line  each  cornice. 

A  river  called  the  Sumida  runs  through  the  city. 
Here  as  everywhere  in  Japan  the  traveller  is 
attracted  by  the  peace,  the  good  order,  the  industry, 
the  thrift,  the  sobriety,  the  great  contentment  of 
the  working  classes.  Beyond  all  attractions  of 
temples  or  ruins,  the  country  certainly  possesses  the 
great  charm  of  a  happy  and  law-abiding  popula- 
tion. 

Besides  the  places  described  there  are  other  cities 
in  Japan  of  considerable  importance. 

Nikko  contains  the  burial   place  of  a  Shogun,  a 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


59 


fine  maiisoleum,  a  celebrated  pagoda  and  a  copi)er 
column. 

Mivanosbita.  famous  for  its  beautiful  scenerv. 


"^i^-»      XT^ 


NIKKO. 


Nagasaki,  one  of  tbe  finest  barbors  in  tbe  world. 
Osaka,  tbe  Liveri)Ool  of  Japan. 
Kolje,  on  tbe  Inland  Sea. 


W  FKOM    INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

Importations  of  Words  by  the  Jai'anesr. —  The 
natives  of  this  Empire  have  been  so  blessed  by 
Providence  that  before  their  European  and  American 
experiences  they  <lid  not  use  soap,  bread  or  hats. 

Their  hot  springs  enabled  them  to  preserve  great 
cleanliness,  their  plants  supplied  all  they  ate  and 
with  the  exception  of  some  slight  head  gear  worn 
by  the  lower  classes  they  went  without  hats. 

Hence  they  to-day  call  soap,  shavon;  bread,  pan, 
and  hats,  chapeau.  Every  one  has  heard  that  lunch 
is  termed  tiffin. 

Japanese  Railroads. — Japan  can  already  boast 
over  thirteen  ditterent  lines  of  railroads,  extending 
beyond  1000  miles.  Tlie  speed  is  not  very  great. 
The  cars  are  divided  into  classes.  The  difference 
between  the  first  and  second  classes  is  only  in  the 
color  of  the  seat  covers.  The  fares  are  very  reason- 
able and  the  service  good. 

The  falls  of  Katsuragawa  are  regarded  l)y  many 
as  very  wonderful.  The  traveller  is  carried  rapidly 
down  a  dozen  cascades.  The  boat  is  staunch.  No 
accidents  are  reported.  When  the  season  favors, 
three  or  more  feet  of  water  are  found  in  the  shallow- 
est places.  To  preserve  the  depth,  stone  walls  are 
built  at  the  sides  of  some  of  the  descents.  The  boats 
are  pulled  back  to  tlie  top  by  men  with  long  ropes, 
another  steering  up  stream.    It  takes  over  four  hours 


AKOt'NI)   THK   WOIU.D 


61 


to    retrace    the    passage   which    occupied  only  one 
hour. 

The   Inland  Sea  of   Japan    is  one   of  the  few 
sights  which  really  jiays  for  the   trouhle  of  a  visit. 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  KOBE. 


It  is  reached  hy  the  steamers  plying  westwai'd  h'oni 
Yokohama  to  Kohe.  This  voyage  takes  ahout  twenty- 
five  iiours.  The  hoat  sto])s  sonic  time.  Kohc  stands, 
like  most  of  the  fities  of  .Ja)»;iii.  on   a    tciTaccd  phiin 


62 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE  HALL, 


surrouiKk'd   l)_v   high   iiiouiitaiiis.    In  clear  weather 
the  view  is  very  picturescjue. 

From  Kobe  the  steamer  proceeds  over  the  Inland 
Sea  to  Nagasaki.  The  voyage  takes  about  twenty-six 
hours  and  affords  a  succession  of  beautiful  views.  The 
sea  is  sometimes  ten  or  twenty  miles  in  width,  then 

it  narrows  to 
t  wo  miles, 
mountains  al- 
ways on  both 
s*  i  (1  e  s  .  At 
times  a  num. 
P  ber  of  islands 
a}>pear,  then 
a  huge  castle 
rock  with  an 
arched  door- 
way open  s 
from  side  to 
side. 

It  is  very 
suggestive  of 
the  Archi])elago  on  the  coast  of  Norway.  The  bay 
of  Nagasaki  and  the  city  make  a  very  })leasing  pic- 
ture. The  town  has  an  old  tem])le  on  a  high  hill. 
As  is  often  the  case  in  Jaj)an,  you  pass  under  a 
beam  su])])orted  some  fifty  feet  from  the  ground  by 
colunnis.  makint>-  an  entrance  fortv  feet  wide.     This 


OSWA  TEMPLH,  NAGASAKI 


AHOIXI)   TIIK   WORLD 


68 


Lowrxci'.  does  not  iislier  you  into  tlie  tenipk-  but 
>;iiiil>l\-  to  a  fliglit  of  ste])s  leading  to  another  cross- 
piece  with  sinnlar  >ii|i|iorts.  and  so  you  pass  through 
a  nuniher  of  jxulals.  At  Nagasaki  tlie  lii-st  was  all 
l)i(>n/t',  the  second  and  third  stone. 

From  Nagasaki  a  westward  course  leads  on  to 
■China  and  you  reach  Shanghai,  450  miles,  in  thirty- 
jsix  hours. 


64 


FKOM    INr)EPKNI)KX(  K    HA  LI- 


CHINA. 

LatitmU'  of  Hon.u'  Koni:  \.  '2'2°. 
Difki:i;kx('K  ix  Clocks. —  Xooii    nt    Pliil;i(lcl}.lii;i, 
I'i.oO  A.  M.  at  IIoiiu  Koiii:. 

Fares  fruiii  Yt^kohaiiia  to  Cauiitta,  one  ticket,  $!281.  If  to 
Hong  Kong,  ^^HO;  if  from  Hong  Kong  to  Colomix),  *190.  hut 
if  oue  ticket  from  Yokohama  to  C'<ilomlio,  ^I'l'o.  The  dollars 
above  noted  are  silver  dollars  worth  in  fall  of  ].S!)4  only  fifty 
cents.  The  fare  in  gold  is.  therefire,  one  half  of  thealiove 
rates. 

ANGHAI  is  over  fourteen  miles 
ii{>  a  river.  Tlie  steamer  anchors 
in  the  bay,  a  tuu  carries  the  pas- 
sengers and  lu,o<i,'a,oe.  The  voyage 
of  an  lionr  and  a  half  brings  ta 
niind  the  low  Hat  sliores  of  tlie 
Delawaix'.  Sour-  men-of-war  are 
stationed  here.  Tlie  city  front  is 
attracti\'e.  No  luiserabU',  narrow 
Water  street,  but  a  wide  axenue 
called  the  •'  Bund  "'  with  large 
stone  and  brick  offiees,  agencies, 
etc.,  greets  the  stranger  with  as- 
surance of  business  enterprise.  The  city  is  Chinese 
only  in  name.  The  English,  French  and  Americans 
have  their  respective  quarters  and  tlu'  British  police- 


AROIND  THE   WORLD  65 

man  stalks  the  streets.  All  the  servants  ;i1  the 
hotels  are  Chinamen,  receivinu  ahout  ten  cents  a  day 
for  their  kind  attention  to  you.  A  large  import  of 
cotton  was  at  the  wliarf  One  hears  of  factories 
which  are  to  inundate  the  Tnitcd  States  with  clieap 
fabrics. 

The  climate  is  cold  in  wintfi'  hut  not  x'cvy  hot  in 
summer.  From  statements  of  those  who  have 
resided  here  for  years  it  is  (juite  as  objectionahle  as 
Philad('l]ihia  for  a  wintei  residence  hut  the  heat  of 
July  and  August  is  not  so  severe  as  with  us. 

The  Chinese  have  no  jui'isdiction  over  foreigners 
and  all  litigation  in  which  the  English,  French  and 
Americans  are  concerned  is  conducted  before  their 
own  courts. 

The  marks  of  English  enteiprise  are  exhil)ited  not 
only  in  the  stately  and  columned  buildings  they 
have  erected  but  in  the  develo})ment  of  factories. 

The  Chinese  have  also  l)een  busy.  .Jessfield, 
formerly  a  deserted  suburb  of  Shanghai,  is  now  the 
scene  of  a  thriving  industry.  It  is  termed  the  Hing 
Chong  Silk  Filature.  It  is  situated  on  the  right  of 
the  Soochow  Creek  and  covers  ((uite  a  large  area. 

A  short  time  ago  this  was  open  count r\'.  The 
establishment  is  the  property  ofa  Chinese  Coni[»any 
undei'  the  direction  of  Mr.  Kiendiong  and  Mr. 
Maertens.  Over  eight  hundi'eil  women  and  children 
are  ernployecl  on  .'>0(J  reels   and    basins.      When   tlie 


66 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HAT,!. 


cocoons  are  delivered  from  the  interioi'  they  are 
carefully  hispected  and  classiHc(l.  The  hirge  white 
and  e\-en  cocoons  are  ranked  as  No.  1. 

A  si;irl  is  assigned  to  every  two  women.    The  duty 
of  tlie  child    is  to   innnerse   the  cocoons    in    loiliiiii 


PEKING.     THE  ENTRANCE  TO  THE  IMPERIAL  PALACE. 

water  and  hand  them  to  the  women  who  reel  off 
the  silk.  The  system  of  ehari^injj,'  and  aeeountingis 
stated  to  he  so  perfect  that  it  is  almost  impossible 
for  any  of  the  property  to  be  secreted. 

The  machinery  is  principally  of  Italian  make,  the 
water  is  su})})lied   by   the   ereek,  the   lighting   is  b}^ 


AKOrXD   THK   WORM)  67 

electricity  and  the  mill  is  to  l)e  run,  says  the  Slianij;- 
liai  ])a])cr,  iii,ulil  and  day,  cxce])t  two  months  in  the 
year.    Ten  hours  make  a  day's  work. 

The  enterprise  is  in  al)lc  hands  and  piomises  well. 
.  The  man-puller  receives  here  even    less   than  in 
Japan.     P'ifty  cents  a  day  for  him  and  his  gig  is  the 
rate. 

On  such  a  wage  scale  American  manufacturers 
must  anticipate  a  terrible  competition,  and  with 
free-trade  to  help  the  foreign  })au[)erd  a  borers  the 
American  workman  may  starve.  This  w  ill  perhaps 
be  made  more  manifest  by  the  study  of  the  re})ort  of 
the  British  Consul,  Mr.  Enslie,  as  to  the  trade  in 
Osaka  for  1893.     He  says: 

"  Anyone  visiting  Osaka  now  after  a  lapse  of 
many  years  cannot  fail  to  be  struck  with  the 
enormous  change  which  has  taken  place  in  the  city 
and  suburbs.  It  was  always  considered  the  com- 
mercial capital  of  Japan,  but  now  it  may  be  termed 
the  Manchester  of  that  progressive  country.  Twenty 
years  ago  there  was  but  a  single  chimney  stack  in 
the  place,  which  belonged  to  the  mint,  but  now 
shafts  rise  by  hundreds  and  the  air  is  black  with 
the  smoke  they  emit.  Twenty  years  ago,  also,  there 
was  but  one  cotton-spinning  mill  in  the  neighl)or- 
hood  of  Osaka,  situated  at  Sakai,  some  nine  miles  dis- 
tant and  that  was  of  very  limited  capacity,  but  at  the 
close  of  1893  there  were  numerous  cotton  mills  in 


<i8  lUOM    INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

the  district  w  itli  ewrv  prospect  of  a  rapid  increase, 
for  the  Ja])aiiese  government,  with  great  wisdom 
and  forethought,  fosters  and  encourages  industries 
of  all  sorts,  having  the  welfare  of  the  people 
tlioroughly  at  heart." 

The  ra})id  spread  of  the  cotton  industry  in  Ja})an 
has  had  a  remarkahle  effect  upon  the  import  of  raw 
cotton.  Ten  years  ago,  though  cotton  mills  had 
made  a  good  start,  the  quantit}"  imported  was  small, 
as  it  only  amounted  to  2,808,348  pounds,  of  the 
value  of  247,506  yen  for  the  whole  of  Ja})an, 
whereas  in  lsj):i  the  import  increased  to  154,442,368 
pounds,  of  the  value  of  1(), 151, 570  yen,  and  of  this 
(piantity  the  Iliogo  and  Osaka  districts  absorbed 
no  less  tlian  99,321,825  pounds,  or  eighty  three  per 
cent.,  being  an  excess  of  nearly  19,000,000  pounds 
on  the'  im})ort  of  the  previous  year.  On  tlie  other 
hand  the  advance  of  the  cotton  spinning  industry 
had  an  adverse  effect  on  the  foreign  yarn  trade,  for 
in  1883  the  import  was  32,854,166  pomids  against 
25,873,536  pounds  in  1893,  and  it  is  very  certain 
that  the  current  year  will  show  a  still  greater  falling 
off  in  this  respect. 

Moreover  the  leading  industry  of  Japan  shows  an 
exceptionally  good  profit  to  the  spinner,  and  though 
mills  are  on  the  increase  their  products  are  steadily 
increasing  in  demand  so  tliat  there  is  every  ])rospect 
of  the  business  continuinu  hiuhlv  remunerative. 


-r. 


< 


AROUND   THE   WORLD  71 

The  figures  quoted  l:)y  Mr.  Enslie  must  be  a 
revelation  to  Manchester.  Tlie  following  estimate  is 
given  of  producing  a  bale  of  No.  20  yarn  of  left  twist, 
selling  in  the  market  at  ninety-two  yen: 

Price  of  middling  Bombay  cotton         .  Yen  54 

Cost  of  spinning     ....  10 

Allowance  for  waste,  etc.             .            .  8 

Balance  (profit)      ....  20 


Yen  92 

That  this  estimate  is  not  at  all  exaggerated  is 
evidenced  l)y  the  fact  that  the  leading  mills  of  the 
district  have  paid  enormous  dividends  to  their  share- 
holders. The  Osaka  and  Temma  Cotton  Spinning 
Companies  have  each  paid  an  annual  dividend  of 
ten  [)er  cent.;  the  Amagaski  ten  and  a  half  per  cent.; 
the  Naniwa  twelve  and  a  half  per  cent.,  and  the 
Hirano  and  Shenshiu  Com})anies  each  paid  the 
astonishing  dividend  of  twenty  })er  cent.  Mr.  Enslie 
also  quotes  figures  showing  the  profit  accruing  dur- 
ing the  second  half  of  the  year  under  I'cview  to 
cotton  mills  for  every  spindle  worked,  which  in  the 
case  of  nineteen  such  establishments  selected  ranged 
from  yen  1.53  to  yen  5.80,  and  he  adds  that  "much 
confidence  is  expressed  with  regard  to  still  larger 
profits  during  the  ensuing  six  months,  as  the 
demand  is  generally  in  excess  of  the  supply." 

The  Japan  mills   are   worked   u})on   very   sound 

principles,  and  in  the  majority  of  ca.ses  the  ow'uers 
5 


72 


FROM  indpjpendencp:  hali> 


have  fniiiR'd  rules  and  reiiulatioiiis  for  the  coinfort 
and  convenience  of  the  vast  numher  of  operatives 
employed  which  are  highly  creditable  to  them,  and 


LI  HUNG  CHANG.  PRIME  MINISTER  OF  CHINA. 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


73 


were  more  especially  necessary  as  most  of  the  mills 
worked  day  and  uiulit  without  intermission.  This 
state  of  prospei'ity  has  recently  receixed  a  slight 
check  owinii'  to  the    war,    and    the   idu'lit    work    has 


>A 


I J    ir 


A  CHINESE  PLOUGHMAN. 


Wll 


(MUX" 


)C 


ceased,    l)ut    it    is    lioped    that    thi 
.temporary. 

The  trade  between  China  and  Japan  has  long 
labored  under  serious  difficulties,  and  it  was  not 
profitable,  because  not  only  was  an  import  duty  paid 
on  the  raw  cotton  but  an  export  duty  was  levied  on 


74  FROM   INDEPENDENCE  HALI. 

the  yarn  exported.  The  attention  of  the  Japanese 
government  was  called  to  the  disahilities  under 
which  the  spinners  labored,  and  the  export  duty 
was  cancelled,  so  that  a  brisk  and  })rofitable  trade 
at  once  sprang  up  wliich  was  promptly  nipped  in 
the  bud  by  the  Chinese  authorities  when  the  war 
broke  out,  by  the  imposition  of  a  prohibitive  lekin 
tax.  It  is  probable  that  when  peace  is  established 
tlie  Japanese  government  will  take  steps  to  have 
this  withdrawn,  and  tlien  no  doubt  Japan  will 
supply  the  Chinese  consumer  with  yarn  in  large 
quantities,  which  will  be  in  effect  an  exchange  for 
the  raw  cotton  they  purchase  from  them. 

Contrast  the  fostering  care  which  the  Japanese 
Government  exercises  over  this  important  and 
growing  industry  with  the  action  of  the  Chinese 
authorities.  Cotton  mills  would  extend  and  tiourish 
in  China  as  much  as  they  do  in  Ja})an,  did  the  of- 
ficials encourage  their  establishment  as  they  ought 
to  do,  but  here  the  greed  of  the  officials  stands  in 
the  way  of  the  welfare  of  the  people,  and  the  indus- 
try, which  should  benefit  the  millions,  is  only  used 
as  a  monopoly  to  benefit  their  rapacious  rulers.  By 
ignorance,  oljstinacy,  cruel  oppression  and  extortion 
tliey  crush  all  enterprise  and  obstruct  the  com- 
mercial advancement  of  the  nation. 


< 
z 

u 

LL 

o 


< 

IXI 

Qi 

•J 

UJ 

X 
H 

O 


< 


7h  FROM    INDEPENDENCE   HAI.I. 

Chinese  aversion  to  hunting. — After  foxes  had 
become  an  affair  of  the  past  in  Philadelphia,  some 
of  our  horsemen — who  ape  the  English — established 
the  sport  of  paper  hunting.  A  member  of  the  party 
was  sent  ahead  to  distribute  small  pieces  of  paper. 
After  his  allowance  of  time  expired  the  so-called 
hounds  started  in  pursuit.  They  paid  no  regard  to 
fences  or  enclosures,  and  rode  yelling  across  the 
country,  regardless  of  private  rights  and  public 
peace.  On  one  occasion — so  runs  the  history — they 
came  like  a  thunder-bolt  into  the  newly  sown  field 
of  one  of  our  best  physicians  and  noblest  of  citizens. 
He  started  from  his  library  with  his  double-barelled 
gun,  and  soon  taught  the  imitators  of  English  lords 
that  there  w^as  a  slight  difference  between  a  peasant 
who  should  feel  honored  "  you  know"  by  the  destruc- 
tion of  his  crops,  and  the  gentleman  who  occupied  a 
somewhat  different  position. 

See  how  history  repeats  itself.  Our  English 
cousins  have  been  trying  the  fox  hunting  and  the 
paper  scattering  business  near  Shanghai,  but  with 
something  of  the  same  disappointment.  The  Graphic 
of  October  30,  1894,  represents  Chinese  farmers  lay- 
ing in  wait  for  the  hunters,  with  sickles  ready  to 
wound  the  ponies.  In  another  cartoon,  a  bridge  of 
a  single  plank  is  defended  by  a  rough,  armed  with 
a  big  brush  and  a  bigger  bucket  of  filth.  But  worst 
of  all,  in  a   third   ])icture,  a   dismounted  lord  loses 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


I  / 


his  pony  and  is  attacked  by  an  army  of  Amazons, 
armed  with  brooms  and  slioes.  The  ])aper  thus 
describes  the  sport : 

"  During  the  long  Shanghai  winter,  paper-hunting 
is    tlie    most    popuhir 


i^> 


sport  with  riders  who 
do  not  mind  a  little 
rough  work  across 
country. 

An  hour  or  so  be- 
fore  the  advertised 
start  of  a  hunt,  the 
foxes,  who  are  always 
the  winners  of  the 
previous  chase,  a  c- 
companied  by  a  few 
friends,  and  two  oi' 
three  mafoos  (Chinese 
grooms),  set  out  to  lay 
the  paper.  This  is 
scattered  thickly  at  short  intervals,  especially  on 
graves  and  other  raised  ground,  while  one  or  more 
checks  are  given  by  leaving  a  gap  in  the  paper  or 
laying  a  false  scent.  The  distance  covered  varies 
from  eight  to  twelve  miles,  the  finish,  which  is 
generally  a  few  yards  after  a  good  jump,  being 
shown  by  two  flags,  between  which  the  hunt  must 
ride. 


PEKING,  A  LADY  OF  QUALITY. 


78  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALI. 

The  object  of  the  hunt  is  not  to  catch  the  foxes, 
and  there  are  always  stewards  in  charge  to  start 
the  field  and  collect  it  when  paper  cannot  be 
found,  also  that  after  crossing  a  bridge  the  foremost 
riders  wait  for  the  rest,  and  to  look  after  the  hunt 
generally. 

The  prize  for  the  light  and  heavy  weight  win- 
ners (the  latter  having  to  finish  in  the  first  six), 
is  a  small  cup  or  an  engraved  sovereign,  and  by  cus- 
tom, only  winners  of  hunts  are  allowed  to  wear  pink. 

The  ponies  for  this  work  are  bred  in  Mongolia, 
and  are  sent  down  in  mobs  to  Shanghai  when  five 
or  six  years  old.  Tliere  the  "grittins,"'  as  they  are 
technically  called,  are  usually  put  up  to  auction, 
with  their  rough  coats  on  and  untried,  and  are 
bought  principally  with  a  view  to  racing,  the  prices 
varying  from  thirty  to  two  hundred  taels,  the  tael, 
at  the  present  low  rate  of  exchange,  being  equal  to 
about  2s.  9d.  Thev  are  all  treldiny-s ;  no  mares  are 
allowed  to  leave  Mongolia,  as  the  natives  wish  to 
keep  the  monopoly  of  the  breeding.  As  a  rule  they 
are  good  weight  carriers,  and  can  race  carrying 
eleven  stone  or  more,  while  twelve  stone  is  a  very 
ordinary  weight  for  tliem  to  carry  across  country. 
They  generally  take  kindly  to  jumping,  and  show  a 
great  keenness  for  sport. 

The  countrv  is  sparselv  wooded  and  extremelv  Hat, 
the   principal    raised  ground  being  Chinese  graves, 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


79 


wliich  are  simply  grassy  mounds,  like  the  ancient 
harrows  in  Europe.  There  are  several  of  these 
in  each  field,  and  coffins  are  strewn  about  "  promis- 
cuous," which  might  have  a  depressing  effect,  were 
it  not  such  an  evei'v-dav  sight.      Numerous  creeks 


PEKING.     AN  UMBRELLA  MENDER. 


of  all  sizes  run  in  ev^ery  direction,  and  have  to  be 
crossed  every  few  hundred  yards  by  either  juni})- 
ing,  wading,  or  on  stone  bridges  of  about  tliree 
feet  in  width.  There  are  also  numerous  dry-cuts,  l)ut 
no  hedges  and  only  a  very  occasional  mud  wall  of 
two  or  three  feet  high.  Wheat,  cotton,  and  rice  are 
the  principal  crops,  and  nearly  every  field  is  cut  into 
ridge  and  furrow,  galloping  on  smooth  grass  land 
being  quite  unknown. 


80  FROM   INDEPENDENCE  HAI^L 

The  natives,  it  is  to  be  feared,  are  prejudiced 
against  paper  hunters ;  and,  indeed,  it  is  hardly  to  be 
wondered  at,  for,  ahhough  there  is  a  fund  for  com- 
pensating them  for  any  damage  done  to  crops,  etc.,  as 
the  money  has  to  pass  through  the  hands  of  Chinese 
officials  it  is  more  than  probable  that  only  a  very 
minute  portion  of  the  original  donation  reaches 
those  it  was  intended  for.  They  show  their  ill  will 
in  various  ways,  for  instance,  by  digging  holes  and 
tying  bushes  together  on  the  further  sides  of  jumps, 
gathering  up  the  paper  and  laying  it  across  impos- 
sible places;  and  woe  betide  the  luckless  hunter  who 
comes  to  grief  and  whose  pony  falls  in  their  hands; 
he  may  consider  himself  lucky  if  he  only  has  to  pay 
through  the  nose  before  he  gets  his  mount  back.  At 
the  finish  of  most  hunts  there  is  a  traditional  old 
woman  with  a  hoe,  who  makes  herself  generally 
objectionable  until  pacified  by  a  silver  bribe." 

No  MAIL  SERVICE  IN  China. — We  wcrc  told  at 
Shanghai  that  there  was  no  Chinese  mail  service. 
The  English  have  put  up  street  boxes  and  distribute 
letters  within  their  jurisdiction.  But  if  you  wish  to 
mail  to  home  or  to  any  foreign  port  the  Consul's 
office  must  be  visited.  There  is  a  postal  agency 
where  you  can  buy  the  stamps  of  your  country  and 
your  letters  can  be  dropped  into  the  box  in  that 
room. 


AROUND   THE  WORLD 


81 


No  CIVILIZED  CONVENIENCES. — There  is  no  under- 
ground drainage  save  for  rain.  Each  |)erson  must 
accommodate  himself  to  tlie  enforced  (h-ill  of  a  sick 
man  and  take  his  chances  with  an  earth  commode. 

Pekinc;. — If  a  man  l)urn  with  the  desire  to  see  a 
wretched  hole,  and  is  willing  to  incur   the  risks  of 


PEKING.     A  TYPICAL  STREET  VIEW. 


being  stoned,  besides  enduring  fearful  hardships,  let 
him  penetrate  to  the  Celestial  capital. 

The    best    communication    now   is  bv  boat  from 


82  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

Shaiio^bai  to  Tientsin.  This  vova^e  is  made  in  a 
steamer  arranged  for  freight,  with  a  small  cabin 
boasting  of  no  state-rooms  or  comforts.  After  enjoy- 
ing this  stately  trip  for  two  days  and  three  nights, 
you  can  reach  a  railroad,  which,  if  not  meanwhile 
torn  up,  will  carry  you  fifty  miles  further.  Thence 
forward  for  two  days  more,  travelling  in  palanquin 
or  on  horseback,  not  knowing  what  will  become  of 
your  baggage — or  your  carcass,  you  may,  by  the 
mercy  of  Providence,  reach  your  destination,  with 
reasonable  certainty  of  not  returning  during  the 
winter  months.  Here  near  the  southern  gate  vou 
will  see  a  fine  tower  erected  on  a  wall  about  forty 
feet  high  and  thirty  feet  thick,  faced  with  large 
bricks.  The  wall  embraces  a  square  of  sixteen  miles, 
counting  all  its  sides.  It  has  nine  gates,  of  which  the 
front  is  the  largest.  All  these  are  shut  shortly  after 
sunset.  Climbing  the  wall  to  enter  Peking  is  pun- 
ished by  death;  leaving  it  in  tliat  style  is  simply 
banishment.  The  streets  are  rectangular,  the  long- 
est being  about  four  miles.  Some  of  them  are  very 
wide,  but  the  residents  pile  on  them  their  wares,  and 
throw  on  them  all  imaginable  filth.  The  carts  are 
heavv.  One  cannot  even  indulge  in  the  luxurvof  a 
jinkrickshaw.  These  conveyances  were  introduced 
sometime  since  but  the  conservative  Chinese  threw 
them  into  the  ditch. 

x4fter  a  rain  the  city  is  a  vast  mud-puddle.    When 


DAGOBA  IN  THE  T'lEN-LING-SZ'. 

TEMPLE  OF  CELESTIAL  INFLUENCE,  LYING  WEST  OF   PEKING. 

This  monument  was  erected  in  tlie  Sui  dynasty  about  600  A.  D.,  and  has  many  Hindu  figures. 


84 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 


the  moisture  dries  the  dust  is  intolerable.  Yet  it  is 
said  that  the  inhabitants  owe  to  this  latter  annoy- 
ance the  continuance  of  their  lives  as  without  the 
wind  and  dust  the  putrefactions  would  speedily  de- 
stroy all  life. 

In  this  Paradise  dwells  the ''Brother  of  the  Sun," 


A  CHINESE  FAMILY  ON  A  PLEASURE  TRIP. 

and  here  perforce  reside  foreign  legations.  The 
missionaries  are  active,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that 
their  preaching  may  tend  to  the  cleanliness  which 
is  next  to  Godliness. 

As  the  native  all  over  takes  to  billiards  and  ten- 


L 


E- 
Z 

JJ 
~i 
H 

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/) 
z 

D 

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z 

O 

en: 

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0 


86  FROM    INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

pins,  there  ir^  hope  for  his  reformation  in  other  mat- 
ters. It  luis  been  suggested  that  the  alacrity  with 
which  the  Japanese  have  become  civilized  is  owing 
to  their  tolertion  of  alcohol,  whereas  the  Chinese 
an<l  Turks  abjure  it,  and  remain  stagnant.  The  tea 
saloons  and  opium  dens  have  been  so  often  described 
that  it  is  not  necessary  to  notice  them. 

Credulity  of  Chinese. — Although  a  wary,  and  in 
many  cases  a  shrewd  people,  the  Chinese  are,  like  all 
others,  more  or  less  liable  to  imposition.  (3ne  of  them 
dissatisfied  ^^■ith  the  recent  defeats,  had  evidently 
received  some  very  curious  items  of  consolation. 
When  jeered  by  an  exultant  Japanese,  he  quickly 
availed  himself  of  his  reply.  "You  no  ready  for 
tight,"  said  the  Japanese,  "we  beatee  you  bery 
quick."  The  Chinaman  waxed  hot;  "you  no 
beatee,  your  Emperor  marry  sister  of  de  French 
kingee,  the  Frenchee  he  beatee  us." 

The  Chinese  art  of  healinct. — Nothing  can  be 
imagined  more  satisfactory  than  the  practice  of 
medicine  in  China.  The  patient  is  offered  a  num- 
ber of  papers.  He  selects  one.  The  physician 
writes  something  on  it  and  this  is  the  remedy.  The 
pharmaccepia  is  extensive.  Every  herb  is  used  for 
a  tea  or  poultice.  But  other  remedies  are  invoked. 
A  piece  of  tlie  skin  of  an  elephant  and  the  tooth  of 


f- 
z 

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5 
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O 
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a. 


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f- 


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f- 


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O 
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6 

z 

O 

X 


88  FROM    INDEPENDKNCE  HALL 

a  rhinocerous,  powdered  and  well  mixed  make  a  fav- 
orite medicine  for  rheumatism. 

From  Shanghai  to  Hoxd  Kong  is  alx)ut  800 
miles.  Tlie  voyage  is  made  in  fifty-tive  hours.  The 
steamer  is  most  of  the  time  in  sight  of  land.  The 
mountains,  islands  and  fishing  hojits  make  a 
})ieturesque  scene.  Hong  Kong  is  an  island  about 
eleven  miles  long,  and  in  circumference  al)0ut 
twenty-seven  miles.  The  harbor  is  surrounded  by 
mountains  and  reminds  the  traveller  of  Santiago  de 
Cuba.  The  city  is  Englisli.  The  i)rincipal  hotel 
offices  and  business  buildings  are  very  imposing. 

Canton  is  distard  five  hours  by  steamer  from 
Hong  Kong.  It  is  about  two  miles  in  breadth  and 
six  in  circumference.  It  is  renowned  for  its  manu- 
factures, jade  cutting,  lacquer  ware,  cut  glass,  silk, 
its  five  storied  Pagoda,  water  clock,  tlie  denseness 
of  its  population  —  estimated  at  1,600,000  —  the 
narrowness  and  filth  of  its  streets,  and  the  danger 
to  foreigners.  The  English  occupy  a  little  island 
with  a  moat.  At  night  the  bridges  are  drawn  up. 
The  government  undertakes  to  protect  that  spot. 
Beyond  its  lines  you  insure  yourself.-  The  thorough- 
fares surpass  St.  Giles.  About  fifteen  feet  in  width, 
a  gutter  in  the  center,  the  pedestrian  can  touch  the 
houses  on  each  side.     The  Iniildings  are   very  high 


AROUND  THE  WORLD  89 

and  so  is  the  death  rate  in  time  of  pestilence.  I 
am  told  that  at  such  periods  1000  per  day  is  not  an 
unusual  mortality. 

MisKLiJ':  IX  CiiiXA. — It  would  perhaps  be  ditticult 
to  find  on  earth  a  people  more  capable  of  achieving 
greatness  than  the  Chinese.  Patient,  industrious, 
economical,  pains-taking,  submissive,  their  empire 
could  under  })ro}>er  management  easily  assume  its 
aj^propriate  place.  But  it  is  misgoverned.  The 
Emperor  is  a  young  man  about  twenty-four  years 
of  age,  ambitious  to  do  his  whole  duty.  His  mother 
and  courtiers  rule  him.  He  has  no  time  to  examine 
or  correct  abuses.  He  is  roused  early  to  go  through 
religious  ceremonials.  Then  he  must  receive  scores 
of  ofhcials.  He  rarely  leaves  his  palace  grounds. 
When  he  goes  out,  four  or  five  times  a  year,  the  super- 
visors of  highways  have  ample  notice,  they  know 
his  route,  employ  thousands  of  men,  the  roads  are 
put  in  splendid  condition,  strewn  with  sand,  and 
the  monarch  supposes  it  is  thus  always.  The  mis- 
management of  the  military  department  surpasses 
conception.  Shells  have  been  tilled  with  burned 
berries,  coffee,  anything  that  would  resemble 
powder.  Cannon  balls  have  actually  been  made  of 
clay  and  painted  black.  Worthless  muskets 
purchased  for  the  price  of  old  iron  have  been  sold 
to  the  government  for  ten  to  twelve  dollars  each. 


90 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE  HAI.L 


A  merchant  was  asked  why  he  did  not  subscribe  to 
the  loan.  He  said  that  he  kept  his  wealth  where 
the  mandarin  could  not  find  it  and  S(iueeze  him. 


THE  DECORATED  PORTAL  IN  THE  GREAT  WALL  OF  CHINA,  NEAR  PEKING. 


An  English  gentleman  staled  that  he  had  been 
requested  to  accompany  a  general  on  a  tour  of 
inspection.  The  commander  of  the  fort  was 
informed   by   some    runner  that   his   superior  was 


AKOl'NI)   THE    WORLD  91 

(.'oniing-.  Everything  was  as  usual,  dirt  and  con- 
fusion. Men  were  set  instantly  at  work  to  polish 
the  cannons.  But  what  was  to  be  done  with  the 
accunuilations  of  tilth  and  rubbish.  As  a  happy 
thous:ht  thev  were  crammed  into  the  ineces. 

When  the  inspection  was  in  progress  the  Chinese 
official  asked  the  Englishman's  opinion.  He 
answered  that  he  would  like  to  examine  the  inside 
of  the  guns.     Then  came  the  revelation. 

Speaking  English. — Few  of  them  can  undertake 
to  talk  to  a  foreigner,  others  profess  to  do  so  but  can 
only  utter  Iz  for  Yes. 

A  gentleman  narrates  his  experience  at  Hong 
Kong  somewhat  in  this  fashion.  He  entered  a  store 
and  asked  if  the  man  spoke  English.  The  usual 
reply  was  made.  The  traveller  said,  Have  you  so 
and  so? 

Chinese — Iz. 

Traveller  (Looking  around) —  But  you  have  not 
got  it. 

Chinese — Iz. 

Traveller — You  say  you  have  it? 

Chinese — Iz. 

Traveller — And  then  you  say  you  have  not  got  it  ? 

Chinese — Iz. 

Traveller — What  do  you  mean?  Do  you  take  me 
for  a  fool? 


92  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALI. 

Chinese — Iz. 

They  generally  understand,  however,  sufficient  to 
rule  their  employers. 

They  insist  u])on  every  member  of  a  family 
having  his  or  her  separate  riksha  and  the  same 
men  will  not  serve  two  different  persons.  A  lady 
remarked  that  she  wanted  her  husband's  pull-man 
to  go  with  her.  The  answer  came  promptly,  "  No, 
no,  you  no  be  my  pidgeon."  Thus  a  family  of  five 
will  require  thirty  servants. 

Religion  of  China  and  Japan. — With  all  that 
has  been  written  on  the  subject,  it  is  astonishing 
that  there  should  l)e  so  much  iunorance.  Some 
fiercely  contend  that  the  two  nations  are  all 
idolaters,  others  assert  to  the  contrary.  Some  will 
say  the  Chinese  are  all  Confucians;  and  then  a 
blank  ignorance  as  to  Confucius  and  his  teachings 
fills  up  the  picture  with  any  back-ground  the 
imagination  may  supply.  The  truth  is  that  Con- 
fucius never  asserted  a  Divine  origin,  ditferent  in 
any  respect  from  other  mortals.  He  was  born  B.  C. 
551,  and  was  simply  a  great  philosopher.  His 
favorite  saying  was,  "  Reading  without  thought  is 
fruitless,  thought  without  reading  is  dangerous." 
Of  himself  he  wrote,  "  I  am  an  editor,  not  an 
author."  He  never  rose  to  greater  dignity  than  to  l)e 
Governor  of  his  native  province.  La.     His  teaching 


ARUUXD   THE   WORLD 


93 


was  simply  an  elevated  materialism.  It  served  as  a 
connection  between  Buddhism  and  Taoism.  These 
three  religions,  now  called  the  San  Kiao,  are  com- 
]:)ined  in  the  reliuion  of  China  to-(hn-.     Taoism  was 


SHANGHAI— A  CHINESE  TEMPLE. 


found(^'d  hvLi-crl,  who  preceded  Confucius,  and  was 
also  his  contemporary.  Pie  called  his  system  Tan, 
"Reason,"  and  tauixht  a  future  state  amonjx  the  (icnii. 
Doctor  Martin  states  that  the  Taoist  jn-iests  instruct 
tlieir  l)elievers  as  to  the  best  localities  for  building  and 


94  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HAI^L 

for  burial  and  that  they  only  can  secure  others  from 
evil  spirits.  Confucius  on  tlie  contrary  advised  "to 
keep  the  gods  at  a  distance,"  and  when  he  had 
iiiushed  his  "Sacred  Books"  at  the  age  of  seventy, 
he  returned  thanks  to  Shangti,  the  "Supreme  Ruler," 
for  the  al)iHty  to  accomplish  this  great  work.  The 
live  ol)jects  of  veneration  now  are  Shangti,  the  earth, 
the  Emperor,  parents  and  teachers.  Shangti  is 
worshipped  only  liy  the  Emperor.  There  are  no 
idols  at  his  shrine.  A  simple  tablet  bears  the  name 
"' Supreme  Ruler."  A  bullock  is  burned  and  the 
Monarch  worships  before  the  sacrifice.  Had  this 
remained  uncorru})ted,  the  idolatry  taught  by  the 
three  religions  San  Kiao  \\ould  never  have  adultera- 
ted Shangti  into  the  saint-worship  of  Buddliisrn  or 
the  degradation  of  Taoism.  Confucius  further  tauglit 
the  most  exalted  reverence  for  parents.  All  that  the 
child  could  earn  or  do  belonged  to  the  father. 

Nor  did  the  slavery  end  with  life.  After  tlie 
parent's  death  there  must  lie  lavish  ol)sequies  and 
ancestral  worship.  A  considerable  portion  of  even 
the  Emperor's  time  is  devoted  to  the  worship  of  his 
ancestors. 

Buddhism,  as  it  prevails  in  Ja})an,  teaches  in  its 
"Diamond  Classics,"  four  great  truths. 

1.  That  all  existence,  being  sorrow,  must  be  ex- 
tinguished. 


AROUND   THE   AVORLD  95 

2.  That  all  existence  arises  from  attachment  to 
life  or  desire. 

3.  That  existence  may  be  extineuished  bv  de- 
stroying  desire. 

4.  That  this  can  only  be  accomplished  by 
Nirvana. 

Buddha  is  a  title  meaning  "The  Enlightened." 
His  name  was  Gautama.  He  lived  some  centuries 
B.  C.  Doctor  Eitel  gives  the  legends  which  surround 
Buddha,  with  the  incidents  mentioned  in  the  life  of 
Christ  ascertained  in  the  Gospels.  He  is  descriljed 
as  born  of  a  Virgin,  as  transfigured,  as  descending 
to  Hell,  ascending  to  Heaven,  and  with  every  par- 
ticular in  the  Saviour's  life,  save  the  crucifixion. 

Hence  the  skeptic  attacks  Christianity  as  a  count- 
erfeit. But  alas  for  the  infidel,  every  particle  of 
this  legend  is  of  modern  origin.  The  most  ancient 
chronicles  contain  no  trace  of  this  tissue  of  inven- 
tion, and  no  Buddhist  history  in  existence  can  take 
rank  in  age  with  the  Gospels. 

The  Veda,  the  oldest  code  of  Asia,  taught  the 
doctrines  of  metempsychosis  and  ultimate  absorption 
into  Brahma.  His  priests  oiiginated  the  idea  of 
caste,  from  their  desire  to  be  identified  with  Deity. 

Buddhism    intended    to  reform  Brahmanism  by 

abolishing   caste,  and   declared  that  the  means  to 

.annihilate   self,  was  "the    path    to   Nirvana."     Dr. 

Eitel  states  that  as  long  as  2000  years  ago,  Budd- 


96  FROM  INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

hism  "attained  to  the  Darwinian  idea  of  a  pre-exist- 
ing spontaneous  tendency  to  variation  as  the  real 
cause  of  tlie  origin  of  species,  but  like  Darwin  and 
liis  school,  it  stopped  short  of  pointing  out  Him 
who  originated  the  first  commencement  of  that  so- 
called  spontaneous  tendency."  The  student  will 
find  this  whole  subject  and  many  other  interesting 
topics,  connected  with  "  The  Philosophy  of  Civili- 
zation," most  beautifully  discussed  in  a  work  bearing 
that  title,  published  in  1889,  by  Jan  Helenus  Fer- 
guson, a  native  of  Holland,  author  of  "The  Red 
Cross  Alliance  at  Sea,"  and  of  a  "Manual  of  Inter- 
national Law."  Mr.  Ferguson,  after  serving  his 
government  in  various  capacities,  has,  for  the  last 
twenty-two  years,  filled  with  great  credit,  the  post 
of  Minister  Resident  to  China. 

Real  Estate  Sales  in  China  are  made  through 
"middlemen,"  or  agents.  After  the  middleman  has 
arranged  the  terms  of  the  sale,  the  grantor  executes  a 
deed  describing  the  property,  and  setting  forth  the 
terms  of  the  contract.  To  this  deed  the  middlemen, 
of  whom  there  are  sometimes  several,  append  their 
seals  as  witnesses  and  as  guarantors  of  title.  Deeds 
are  of  two  kinds,  ichite  (written  on  white  paper,)  and 
red  (written  on  red  paper).  When  real  estate  is 
conveyed  by  whiie  deed,  the  transfer  is  not  recorded 
in  the  government  books,  but  remains  in  the  name 


AKOUXIJ   THE   WORLD  97 

of  tlie  previous  owner.  When  real  estate  is  con- 
veyed Ijv  red  (hc<L  the  sale  is  recorded,  and  tax 
receipts  are  thereafter  issued  in  the  name  of  actual 
owner.     A  tax  of  :]  |ier  cent,  is  charged  on  the  pnr- 


HONG-KONG.     QUEENS  ROAD.  SHANGHAI   BANK  AND  BEACONSFiELD  ARCADE. 


chase  money  (payable  by  purchaser),  for  this  record. 
It  is  the  dutv  of  the  recordiiifr  official  to  examine 
the  title,  and  record  is  a  guarantee  thereof.  In  buy- 
ing land  it  is  customary  to  recieve  all  deeds  inter- 
vening between  the  grantor's  deed  and  the  original 
owner  as  recorded  in  the  government  book. 


98  FROM    IXDEPENDENCE   HAI.L, 

Sales  are  usually  made  by  wliite  deed  to  save  the 
government  charge  of  3  per  cent. 

Upon  death  of  the  owner  property  is  held  in 
common  by  the  family,  and  in  case  of  a  division,  a 
larger  share  is  given  to  the  oldest  son  for  maintain- 
ing the  ancestral  worship. 

The  father  lias  an  almost  unlimited  power  over 
his  family.  He  can  hand  the  son  over  to  death  and 
sell  the  daughter  to  slavery. 

This  authority  passes  in  effect  to  the  oldest  son  on 
the  death  of  the  father.  In  a  recent  case  a  younger 
son  could  only  l:)e  relieved  from  the  danger  of  death 
by  amputation  of  the  diseased  limb.  But  the  older 
brother  forbade  the  performance  of  tlie  operation  and 
the  patient  died. 

The  administration  of  justice  is  proverbially  cor- 
rupt and  all  the  divisions  of  the  government  suffer 
from  this  taint.  The  high  officials  receive  almost 
nothing  from  the  State  but  they  make  immense  in- 
comes by  selling  patronage,  promotions,  etc.  The 
Hoppo  of  Canton  (the  customs  official)  receives  an 
insignificant  salary  but  has,  from  the  other  sources; 
an  income  of  several  millions  a  year. 

The  imports  and  exports  in  foreign  ships  or  under 
foreign  flags  are  in  the  hands  of  Sir  Robert  Hart, 
an  Englishman.  He  collects  as  export  and  import 
duties  approximately  5  per  cent,  ad  valorem  on  all 
goods   in   foreign   bottoms    or   under  foreign   flags. 


AROUND  THE  WORLD  99 

This  he  pays  over  honestly  to  the  central  govern- 
ment.    Last  year  this  revenue  amounted  to  22,000,- 


SHANGHAl-A  MARKET  PLACE. 


000  of  customs  Taels,  approximately  22,000,000  of 
iiolfl  dollars. 


The  Opium  Dens  have  been  so  often  described 
that  like  most  of  the  scenes  a  stranger  meets,  the 
picture  is  worn  thread-bare.  Every  scribbler  thinks 
he  can  describe  better  thnn  his  predecessor  a  scene 


100 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE   IIAIA. 


which  really  requires  no  description.  Why  paint 
anew  the  listless  eyes  and  dormant  forms  of  a  set  of 
opium  smokers?    Why  tell  everyl)ody  for  tlie  thous- 


■*^^- 


CHINESE  MERCHANT  AND  FAMILY. 


andth  time  that  the  laborers  in  these  hot  holes  wear 
only  a  girdle  round  their  hips  and  that  the  women 
in   some    of  these    places    have    rings    round    their 


ankles 


AKOTNI)   TJIK    WORLD 


FROM  CHINA  TO  CALCUTTA. 


X  the  })receding  pages  the  fares 
liM\-e  already  been  given  as  far  as 
( 'olonil)0.  From  Colombo  to  Cal- 
cutta the  cliarge  for  first-class 
acconnnodation  is  1"2()  I'upees — 
about  $:30. 

The  first  stopping  ])l;!ce  of  tlie 
French  steamers  westward  from 
Hong  Kong  is  Saigon,  919  miles 
sixty-tliree  hours. 
Saigon  is  described  as  having  14.000 
inhal)itants.  with  80,000  or  100,000  in 
its  surroundings.  It  is  the  chief  eitv  of 
Cochin-China  and  the  seat  of  the  (lOvernor-General 
of  Indo-Chma.  It  is  situated  on  an  ai'm  of  the 
Dong-Nai  between  two  other  strean^s,  and  has  been 
wonderfully  changed  within  the  last  few  years  by 
France.  She  has  filled  the  marshes,  opened  streets 
and  boulevards,  built  a  splendid  palace  for  the 
Governor,  a  cathedral,  a  hospital,  schools,  an  arsenal, 
stores,  a  botanical  garden,  an  ol)servatory,  etc.  The 
citadel  dates  from  the  reign  of  Gia-Long.  It  is  the 
work  of  French  officers  who  were   in  his  employ. 


102 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE   ilALI. 


The  port  is  accessible  to  the  largest  ships  and  is 
furnished  witli  a  floating  dock.  (Condensed  trans- 
lation   of    Mr.    Lanier's    excellent    work    entitled 

"L'Asie"). 

The  traveller  finds  himself  in  a  port  forty  miles 


A  TAMIL  MERCHANT  AND  HIS  FAMILY. 


from  the  sea.  The  scenery  has  no  striking  features, 
save  to  an  American.  The  trees  are  different  from 
his  willows,  pines,  cedars  and  shrubs.  Here  are  the 
Banyan  with  its  everlasting  roots — reminding   one 


AROUND  THE   WORLD 


103 


of  the  glorious  Bacon — who  drew  from  tliis  tree  his 
magnificent  simile  of  the  eternity  of  the  soul.  Here 
also   are  the  towering  i)alms  reaching  their  heads 


SINGAPORE.     A  GRULH  ul     MALAY  LADIES. 

towards  Heaven,  and  all  tlic  flora  of  tlie  tro})ics. 
The  heat  is  at  times  oppressive — always  so  in  the 
sun.  I)ut  the  hreeze  to-day  is  cheering  and  as  one 
sits  at  meals  the  Punka  keeps  him   in   an   p]lysium 


o 


-J 
< 


■J 
z 


> 

< 

z 


AROUND  THE   WoKIJ) 


10.: 


content.  This  is  to  us  a  most  curious  and  a  most 
acceptable  contrivance.  Strang'e  that  Yankee  in- 
genuity has  never  transphmted  the  Punka,  instead 
of  usini;'  tlie  ^liastly  and  oliostly  l)hules  of  a  proj)el- 


SINGAPORE.     A  MALAY  BAND  (GAMELANE  PLAYERS). 

ler  to  keep  off  flies  and  to  keep  out  heat.  Here  sus- 
pended from  tlie  ceiling  are  simple  arrangements  of 
muslin  looking  for  all  the  world  like  elongated 
holsters.  They  are  connected  l)y  a  rope  to  the  side 
cord  and  this  pulled  by  a  Coolie  sets  the  whole  in 
motion  and  makes  vou  "coolev"  indeed. 


AROUND  THE   WOKF.D 


107 


Tlic  clock  at  this  point  shows  us  to  he  only  right 
minutes  short  of  the  Anti})0(les  of  I'liihulclphia. 

The  possessions  of  France  in  this  place  exceed  b}^ 
one-sixth  her  whole  Em]>ire  in  Euro])e. 


GROUP  OF  OFFICIALS  OF  THE  LAW  COURTS,  JOHORE. 

Saigon  is  supposed  to  l)e  malarial.  An  excursion 
of  a  few  days  leads  to  a  very  old  temple  in  ("am- 
l^odia. 

SixciAi'oRK  is  distant  from  Hong  Kong  about  loot) 
miles,  and  from  Saigon  ()37  miles.    The  voyage  from 


108 


FROM   I^' DEPENDENCE   HALE 


Saigon  is  generally  less  than  forty-eiglit  hours.  The 
town  is  situated  on  an  island  })urchased  by  the 
English  in  1SU>  from  the  Sultan  of  Jo h ore.  Its 
population  is  al)Out  60,000.     Within  a  few  miles  of 


•i    1^  .i^A 


r1 


'"^^^^f^^^^V 


^^^"-^^k 


MALAY  CHIEF  AND  HIS  FOLLOWING. 

the  equator  the  tropical  plants  of  course  abound. 
The  sun  like  a  regular  gentleman  rises  and  sets 
within  a  few  minutes  of  six  the  year  round.  The 
streets  are  well  laid  out,  and  well  macadamized. 
The  public  buildings  are  large  and  well  designed. 


AKdlNl)   THE   WORLD  109 

The  air  was  l)alniy — hot — but  not  oppressive.  There 
is  an  extensive  garden  a  sliort  distance  from  the  city 
and  witliin  tlie  garden  is  the  nucleus  of  a  zoological 
exhiliition.  The  traveller  is  fore- warned  to  reject 
here  as  everywhere  the  froth  and  gush  of  the  tourist 
hook.  He  need  not  expect  to  see  "tigers  and  all 
soi'ts  of  vermin."'  He  may  be  disappointed  if  he  ex- 
pect to  sniif  the  "spicy  breezes  of  Ceylon."  He  will 
tind  a  curious  })alm,  growing  straight  up  some  thirty 
feet  with  its  radii  spread  exactly  like  a  giant  fan. 
The  scenery  of  the  harbor  is  picturesque.  The  l>oys 
in  their  light  canoes  surround  the  visiting  shij)  and 
itluuiie  into  the  water  to  catch  the  coins  thrown  bv 
strangers. 

The  heat  on  the  steamers  is  relieved  by  the  punkas 
kept  so  agreeably  in  motion  l)y  our  friend,  John 
Chinaman. 

Colombo  (Ceylon)  has  128,000  inhabitants.  La- 
nier says  the  town  was  l)adly  chosen  as  the  capital  of 
the  island:  that  it  is  less  fertile  and  more  exposed 
to  storms  than  other  locations. 

Kandy  is  in  the  centre  ('^O.OOO  in]ial)itants). 

Pont  de  (ialle  is  to  the  South  (population  o2,000) 
and  there  are  other  smaller  towns. 

The  usual  running  time  from  Singa})ore  is  three 
days  and  twelve  hours.  Arrivals  and  departures  on 
all  these  occasions  are  so  arranged  as  to  give  the 


110  I'KOM    IXDEI'KXDKNCE    HALL 

passengers  as  little  slumber  as  possible.  It  is  to  lie 
presumed  tbat  this  produces  an  economy  to  the 
transporting  company.  Colombo  is  the  well-known 
vet  little  known  caiMtal  of  Cevlon. 

It  is  not  as  near  to  the  Equator  as  Singapore,  but 
for  the  practical  purposes  of  furnishing  heat  in 
December  to  the  frozen  American  and  food  for  the 
gush  of  the  book-writer  and  newspaper  man  its 
latitude  of  (3°  57'  north  is  all-sufiicient.  It  is  over 
5800  miles  from  London  l)y  Bi'indisi,  the  shortest 
route;  and  is  in  time  five  hours  and  nineteen 
minutes  before  Greenwich — ten  hours  and  twenty 
minutes  before  Philadelphia.  Wherever  the  English 
have  improved,  one  sees  fine  streets  and  splendid 
Ituildings.  There  is  not  much  in  ("eylon  to  justify 
a  voyage  of  over  10,000  miles  and  forty  days.  But 
being  detained  here  for  the  Indian  steamer  the  time 
can  l)e  agreeal)ly  occupied.  You  need  not  take  long 
journeys  to  distant  points,  nor  climb  fearful  ascents 
which  produce  no  satisfactory  result  save  the  ability 
to  boast  of  your  prowess  and  to  toi-ture  some  poor 
soul  with  the  degradation  of  not  having  come  up  to 
your  standard  of  sight  hunting.  But  you  can  in  all 
Cjuietness  take  rides  to  a  fine  park,  a  parade  ground, 
the  cinnamon  gardens,  a  Ijridge  of  l)oats  and  a 
Buddhist  temple. 

If  your  patience  permits,  you  can  visit  a  most  un- 
inviting bazaar  and    market.     The  cinnamon  bush 


< 

I/) 


< 

O 

u. 

>-" 
Q 
Z 

< 


\12  FRO:\r    TXDEl'ENDKNCE   HALL 

has  no  sj)ecial  attraction  ami  save  when  rubbed  the 
wood  emits  no  odor. 

The  temple  is  simply  another  ugly  curiosity. 
With  great  ceremony  you  areshown  a  I'cclining  figure 
over  twenty  feet  in  length,  supposed  to  represent 
Buddha.  A  statue  typifies  the  redeemer,  whom  his 
worshippers  expect  to  come.  Another  figure  is  the 
mother  of  Buddha:  at  her  side  is  a  lotus  flower  with 
a  little  Buddha  on  top.  The  sameness,  tlie  ugliness 
and  the  repetition  of  these  objects  make  the  travel- 
ler wonder  that  he  has  been  stupid  enough  to  get 
out  of  his  vehicle  and  })ay  for  being  bored.  The 
crowds  of  men  running  about  with  hardlv  anv 
clothing,  some  with  long  hair,  most  of  them  with 
combs,  the  swarms  of  children,  the  })aiiorama  all 
black  and  swarthy,  makes  the  sight  of  the  ocean 
and  the  ozone  of  its  air  a  most  welcome  relief. 

Colombo  enjoyed,  during  my  stay,  delightful  sea- 
breezes.  Christmas  Eve  was  celebrated  at  the  hotel 
with  a  ball.  The  Episcopal  church  was  beautifully 
adorned  with  lillies.  All  honor  to  tlie  institution 
which  far  over  wide  seas  and  distant  lands  sends  its 
spirit  to  cheer  the  hearts  of  countless  thousands  and 
makes  even  the  skeptic  say  to  his  neighbor,  "Merry 
Christmas." 

The  Magicians  of  the  East. — The  Munchausens 
have  woven  such   beautiful  webs  of  fiction  that  it 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


113 


seems  cruel,  ])erluips  dangerous,  to  question  them. 
Not  even  the  cobra  of  the  East  can  bite  with  more 
poisonous  fang  (luni  the  faijulist  of  travel  when  you 
question  his  accuracy.     On  one  occasion  it  was  my 


iTiii*!?!^ 


HINDOO  TEMPLE,  COLOMBO. 


privilege  to  listen  to  a  trial  between  two  of  these 
truth-destroyers.  One  gave  with  great  detail  the 
marvels  of  a  diver's  skill.  He  had  seen  the  boy 
dive  from  a  ship  on  Ihc  opposite  mle  when  a  coin  was 
thrown  over  and  bring  it  up.     His  antagonist  was 


114  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

not  to  be  beaten  l>y  any  such  paltry  feat.  IIi  told  us 
of  a  dancing  girl  in  India  who  hent  l);iek\vards  and 
lifted  a  coin  from  the  })avernent,  not  witli  hands  or 
lips,  but  with  her  ctje-Hch.  Who  has  not  read  of  the 
magician  of  the  East?  That  supernatural  being  who 
can  receive  without  injury  the  bite  of  the  most 
venomous  reptile,  and  who  can  make  a  plant  grow 
before  your  eyes  from  the  seed  he  has  planted  in 
your  very  sight.  Now  the  authors  of  these  stories 
tell  them  all  as  if  they  were  really  miracles.  No 
word  of  doubt  or  explanation  is  vouchsafed.  How 
plain  a  tale  will  set  them  down.  Whilst  you  are 
enjoying  a  cuj)  of  tea  at  a  kiosk  your  attention  may 
be  attracted  by  a  half-naked  swarthy  native  and  a 
boy,  who  crouch  near  the  threshold.  The  man 
carries  a  small  l)asket  about  one  foot  in  diameter 
and  four  inches  deep.  He  also  bears  a  bag  large 
enough  for  his  conjuring  tools.  As  soon  as  he 
catches  your  eye  he  pulls  from  the  bag  a  couple  of 
toys.  One  of  them  looks  like  a  short  doll,  the 
other  resembles  a  humming  top.  They  scjueak  when 
pressed.  After  a  few  hideous  sounds  he  takes  a  pith 
ball  and  goes  through  the  threadbare  tricks  of  put- 
ting it  under  a  cu});  lifting  the  cup,  the  ball  has 
gone  ;  now  it  is  invisil)le,  now  it  is  under  the  other 
cup,  now  it  multiplies  itself  to  two,  even  u})  to  four, 
is  swallowed,  thrown  in  the  air,  re-appears  on  some 
one's  nose,  etc.     Having   exhausted  the  ball   game 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


115 


the  basket  is  opened  and  out  crawls  a  cobra,  as 
hideous  as  deadly.  But  it  is  only  a  sham.  The 
fangs  have  all  been  withdrawn.  The  toy  is  squeezed 
and  a  hunnning  discord  is  heard.  The  snake  lifts 
himself  angrily,  curves  one  half  of  his  body  like  an 
S  and  strikes  at 
the  top.  lie  is 
encouraged  to  re- 
peat his  bites  and 
sometimes  the  man 
is  clearly  struck. 
But  he  is  uncon- 
cerned. Once  tlu 
blood  seemed  to 
c  o  ni  e  ,  f  o  r  h  c 
(juickly  sucked  the 
spot  and  then  went 
on.  After  this  is 
through  the  snake 
is  seized  near  the  head  and  a  few  inches  are  placed  in 
the  basket.  The  reptile  is  tired  of  this  farce  and  he 
crawls  in.  This  is  really  the  amusing  })art  of  the 
play,  to  see  the  cobra  go  back  so  snugly  to  his  rest. 
Another  basket  is  taken  out  of  the  bag  and  the 
mango  trick  is  performecL  During  the  whole  of 
this  the  man  and  boy  keep  u})  a  sort  of  perpetual 
motion  and  })erpetual  S(iueaking.  The  little  basket 
is  opened,  a  few  inches  of  })acked  dirt  are  in  the 


BULLOCK  CART,  COLOMBO. 


116  FKOM    INDEPENDENCE   HALi> 

bottom.  The  ])oy  inserts  a  stick  some  four  inches 
high,  the  man  throws  over  it  a  cloth,  and  with 
many  wild  words  and  actions  from  man  and  boy 
you  are  informed  that  something  very  wonderful 
will  soon  ha})})en.  The  bag  is  again  resorted  to  and 
a  piece  of  a  root  about  two  inches  long  is  exhibited. 
This  is  very  carefully  packed  in  the  dirt,  and  the  cloth 
is  restored.  The  1)oy  always  keeps  a  hand  under  it 
apparently  to  hold  up  the  stick,  but  really  to  per- 
form the  miracle.  More  noise;  the  cloth  is  with- 
drawn an<l  a  little  green  leaf  appears  between  the 
stick  and  the  dirt,  as  if  it  had  just  budded.  Some 
one  exclaims  that  this  is  nothing;  that  the  mango 
plant  should  be  created.  The  Singalee  says,  "Oh, 
ves,  but  it  must  have  time  to  grow."  All  is  covered 
again,  water  is  plentifully  sprinkled  under  the  cloth 
and  the  })0W- wowing  re})eated.  At  last  the  muslin 
is  remoN'ed  ami  there  sure  enough  is  a  mango  plant 
about  three  inches  above  the  ground  having  on  it 
some  eight  leaves.  It  is  quickly  removed,  one  leaf 
torn  off  and  given  to  each  lady  present.  It  is  plain 
that  the  whole  affaii'  could  have  been  introduced  by 
either  of  the  performers,  or  was  more  probably  con- 
cealed in  the  cloth  or  beneath  the  dirt  in  a  false  lid 
of  the  basket.  The  water  sprinkled  had  of  course 
nothing  to  do  with  its  growtli  l)ut  was  sim}ily  to 
clean  off  the  dirt. 

As  represented   by  Munchausen  it  is  a  veritable 


ARorXI)    i'lIK   WORLD 


11- 


miracle,  as  seen  by  you  it  is  a  mere  im[)osition,  not 
lialf  as  clever  as  the  old  ball  and  cup  game,  'j'lie 
concluding  scene  was  to  one  party  at  least  the  most 
satisfactory  part  of  the  show.  Tlie  poor  snake  is 
again  disquieted,      llistortnrer  with   the  left  hand 


ELEPHANTS  AT  FERRY,  NEAR  KANDY. 

seizes  the  reptile  very  close  to  the  head  and  pres.ses 
the  thumb  so  tightly  on  the  creature's  jaws  that  I 
wondered  he  survived.  Then  twirling  tlie  cobra 
round  his  neck  the  Indian  with  his  right  hand 
carries  to  each  guest  the  basket  lid  to  gather  in  his 


lis 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE  HALL 


well-eai'iied  rupees,  liis  eyes  glittering  all  the  while 
not  very  much  unlike  the  poor  snake's. 

Fruits,  Etc. — It  seems  strange   to  tind   in  these 
waim   countries  no  grapes,  no  peaches,  no  melons 


FRLMT  SELLERS,  COLOMBO. 


like  those  of  the  United  States.  Even  oranges 
seem  scarce.  The  milk  is  weak  ;  the  butter  unpal- 
atable ;  the  meats  tough  and  poor.  The  handsome 
little  buffalo  oxen,  with  their  pretty  colors,  small 
liorns  and  curious  humps,  trot  about  like  horses, 
but   when    worn    out    they  make    sad    beef.      The 


o 

23 

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o 

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X 

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Lu 
a. 

iii 
z 

■M 
■J 
S, 

H 
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O) 

a: 


120 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HAi.h 


viands  one  .sees  in  tlje  markets  leave  him  no  appetite 
for  the  table. 

The  breadfruit  tree,  the  cordaman,  pepper  bushes 
and  palms,  abound.     They  tell  of  curious  tailor  bird 


SKINNER'S  ROAD,  COLOMBO. 


nests  ;  but  the  spicy  breezes  are  all  poetry.  Bananas 
and  pine-apples  are  plentiful ;  salad  is  rarely  served  ; 
tomatoes  are  scarce. 

During  Christmas  week  the  banks  and  nearly  all 
the  shops  were  closed  for  four  days. 


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a: 


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}-S2  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HAI.L 

Kandy. — It  is  .said  that  this  is  a  favorite  shelter 
from  the  heat;  but  Colombo  needed  no  such  refuge 
the  Christmas  season  of  1894  ;  the  wind  was  very 
pleasant  every  day  and  on  two  nights  was  quite 
cool.  The  houses  are  all  constructed  for  hot  weather; 
there  are  no  fire  places ;  everything  is  open  doors, 
latticed,  etc.  The  bedroom  I  occupied  had  no  win- 
dow sash,  and  the  outside  shutters  were  arranged 
with  blinds.  It  seems  very  strange  to  a  Philadel- 
phian  that  he  should  in  Christmas  week  keep  care- 
fully out  of  the  sun,  wear  his  thinnest  summer  gar- 
ments, lounge  all  day  and  sleep  at  night  under 
a  mosquito  bar. 

Kandy  is  76  miles  from  Colombo,  has  a  Gover- 
nor's palace  and  a  line  librar3\  Botanical  Gardens 
are  near  and  Delada's  Temple  was  built  for  Buddha's 
Tooth. 

There  is  a  fine  sanitarium  at  Neura  Elliya  at  an 
altitude  of  2600  feet,  50  miles  from  Kandy. 

These  things  may  be  credited,  but  the  "  ulfd  ele- 
phant's in  herds'''  and  "bamboos  that  grow  one  half 
inch  every  hour  "  (2  feet  a  day — 730  feet  in  a  vear): 
we  may  he  pardoned  bv  our  friend  the  story-teller 
for  rejecting. 

In  place  of  wandering  over  the  island  to  gather 
up  fables,  let  the  tourist  rest  his  weary  brain  and 
gaze  out  quietly,  as  he  may  by  the  houi',  at  this 
beautiful  harbor  of  Colombo,  with  its  blue  skv  and 


o 

a: 
5 


-r 

< 
J 

X 

J 


O 


124 


FROM    IXDEPENDENCE  HAI.E 


bluer  water,  bearing  on  its  calm  surface  the  huge 
ships  which  carry  to  and  from  these  shores  so  many 
precious  cargoes  and  more  precious  lives.  All  this 
like  a  quiet,  natural,  hut  lovely  picture  is  sju'ead  out 


I 


M 


..^,jv.  <a 


,  mmki 


ELHPHANT  DRAWING   COCOANL'TS,  BATTICALOA.  CEYLON. 

directly  in  front  of  the  Oriental  Hotel,  and  seems  to 
condemn  the  spirit  that  casts  one  hasty  look  upon 
the  scene  and  turns  from  it  forever. 

As   our  German  friends  say  "so  many  a  student 
crosses  the  Rhine  a  gosling  and  comes  back  a  goose." 


AKOL'XD   THE   WOKl.D  125 

Adanf's  Pkak"  is  pointed  like  a  loaf  of  sugar 
and  overlooks  all  the  neighboring  mountains.  Ac- 
cording to  the  legend,  "  When  Buddha  descended 
upon  the  earth  in  a  frightful  tempest,  he  rested 
upon  this  island,  drove  out  the  evil  spirits  and  es- 
tablished his  residence  here.  He  proclaimed  his 
gospel  Nirvana  and  taught  men  to  seek  happiness 
by  living  without  desire  and  by  dying  without  fear. 
In  ascending  to  Heaven  he  left  not  only  a  handful 
of  hair,  but  also  at  the  special  prayer  of  the  King, 
the  ])rint  of  his  foot.  This,  called  the  miraculous 
sripada,  is  found  at  the  precise  spot  where  for  the 
last  time  his  foot  rested  on  earth." 

It  is  needless  to  add  that  for  more  than  2000 
3'ears  pilgrims  have  Hocked  to  this  spot.  Eight 
hundred  years  ago  a  temple  was  erected,  and  of 
course  a  basin  was  placed  there  to  receive  the  offer- 
ings of  the  devotees.  There  is  some  conflict  of 
statement  as  to  the  footprint.  The  Arabs  claim 
that  an  angel  carried  Adam  to  this  peak.  The 
Chinese  assert  that  the  mark  was  made  by  Iwan-Koo ; 
the  Portugese  contend  for  St.  Thomas,  and  a 
Persian  poet  has  bestow^ed  the  honor  on  Alexander 
the  Great. 

The  celebrated  tooth  was  in  its  day  the  subject  of 
fierce  battles.  In  the  16th  century  it  is  said  that 
the  Archbishop  of  Goa  reduced  it  to  powder  in 
a  mortar  in  the  presence  of  all  the  court,  and  threw 


126  KROM    INDKPENDENCE   HALJ. 

the  dust  to  the  winds  of  the  sea,  yet  the  faithful 
insist  that  the  tooth  still  exists  intact. 

Mr.  Russell  narrates  the  exhibition  of  it  to  the 
Prince  of  Wales  in  1876.  The  golden  box  contain- 
ing the  relic,  studded  with  blazing  jewels,  was 
placed  u})on  a  silver  table.  A  })riest  opened  it.  It 
contained  another  box.  The  second  being  0})ened 
disclosed  a  third,  and  so  on  to  the  fifth,  all  of  jew- 
eled gold.  At  last  the  tooth  was  seen  reposing 
on  a  lotus  leaf  of  gold.  The  priest,  trembling  with 
emotion,  exhibited  the  tooth  to  the  Prince,  who 
having  duly  examined  it,  retired. 

From  Colombo  to  Calcutta  required  a  week.  The 
steamer  stopped  at  Pondicherry  for  a  few  hours,  at 
Madras  for  half  a  day. 

Pondicherrv  is  governed  bv  the  French.  It  has 
broad  streets,  some  fine  government  buildings  and  a 
botanical  garden. 

Madras  boasts  of  larger  buildings  and  a  better 
garden. 

Calcutta  is  not  situated  on  the  coast,  but  is  some 
eighty  miles  and  odd  u[>  the  Hooghly  River.  The 
navigation  is  difficult  :  one  cannot  go  at  niglit  and 
must  sto})  in  daytime  for  the  tide.  We  anchored  off 
the  mouth  of  the  river  at  2.30  A.  M.,  but  did  not 
reach  Calcutta  until  11  A.  M.  of  the  next  day,  say 
thirtv-three  hours. 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


127 


ACROSS  INDIA. 

Calcutta,  Lat.  I'li"  X. 

Time,  Philadeli)hia,  li*  noun,  ("ak-utta,  11  P.  M. 

HIS  city  is  in  Lower  Bengal.  It 
has  a  population  of  980,000.  It 
was  btiilt  in  the  17th  century  and 
fortified  in  the  l8th  century  hy 
Clyde.  It  is  mentioned  as  one  of 
the  great  ports  of  India,  and  is  the 
capital  and  seat  of  government. 

The  approach  l)y  the  Ilooghly 
River  is  described  Ity  the  inhabi- 
tants as  much  worse  than  it  was 
found  during  the  voyage.  In  the 
city  we  were  informed  that  2000 
years  ago  the  sea  s\ve]>t  up  to  the  base  of  the  Hima- 
layas. This  word,  by  the  way,  is  honored  with  three 
different  pronunciations.  The  English  and  the 
Americans  pronounce  it  with  the  accent  on  the  Jay. 
But  the  Orientals  contend  that  this  is  wrong.  Some 
call  it  Hima-/o//-yas,  others  E-ma-loy-as. 

After  the  sea  retired  the  mountains  seem  to  have 
resolved  to  return  the  com})liment  of  an  invasion 
and  for  3'ears  the  wash  from  these  hills  has  brought 
down  avalanches  of  sand  and  drift  which  lia\-e  been 


128  FROM    INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

poured  into  the  water  and  have  gradually  encroached 
U})on  the  Bay  of  Bengal  by  enlarging  the  continent. 
The  result  has  been  to  make  the  mouth  of  the 
Hooghly  a  most  treacherous  entrance.  It  is  con- 
stantly on  the  change.  In  the  open  channel  of  this 
week  there  may  be  poured  in  seven  days  a  little 
mountain  of  sand.  Nor  is  this  the  worst.  Should 
a  vessel  strike  she  can  never  hope  to  be  relieved  by 
tide  or  tugs.  She  begins  instantly  to  sink  in  the 
sand.  \\\'  passed  a  ship  which  was  buried  far  down 
and  had  sunk  so  rapidly  in  the  quick  debris  that 
only  one  of  her  crew  escaped. 

The  climate  is  represented  as  very  good  for  four 
months,  including  the  winter.  But  in  May  the  rains 
set  in.  In  summer  the  thermometer,  I  was  told, 
rises  to  100  degrees  and  remains  there.  Mv  inform- 
ant  said  that  the  nights  were  intolerable.  Earth- 
quakes occasionally  come,  but  they  seem  to  be  almost 
harmless.  The  shakes  here  are  not  horizontal ;  they 
lift  you  U})  and  suddenly  let  you  down. 

Fort  William  is  a  fine  structure.  The  Post  office 
is  a  grand  building.  Near  it  was  the  famous  Black 
Hole.  Then  there  are  the  Government  House,  the 
Town  Hall,  the  palace  of  the  ex-King  of  Oudh,  St. 
Paul's  Cathedral,  other  churches,  the  University,  the 
Indian  Museum,  etc. 

There  are  also  statues. of  Sir  James  Oiitram,  Lord 
Bentinck  and  others. 


AROUND  THE   WORLD  129 

The  Zoological  Gardens  l)oast  of  some  very  large 
tigers  and  sonic  ])cantifnl  birds.  The  Eden  gardens 
were  the  gift  of  two  ladies  of  that  name. 

Notwithstanding  the  wealth  of  the  city  there 
seems  to  be  no  proper  sanitary  hn\'  in  force.  The 
streets  arc,  in  the  main,  good  turnpikes,  l)ut  all  mat- 
ters dropped  percolate  to  some  extent  before  removal 
and  the  subsecjuent  sprinkling  only  seems  to  perpet- 
uate the  disagreeable  odor. 

The  hotels  are  strangely  kept.  At  our  hostelry — 
very  large  and  grand — a  wide  marble  hall  separated 
bed-rooms  from  the  dining-room.  In  this  beautiful 
passage  were  tables  used  for  prepariag  vegetables, 
oil  stoves  and  a  kitchen. 

The  tiles  were  stained  very  black  and  the  whole 
had  a  strange  appearance. 

Guide  books  tempt  the  traveller,  as  usual,  to  visit 
many  places  he  might  well  pass.  First  of  these 
coming  westward  is  Benares.  It  is  twenty-seven 
hours  from  Calcutta.  The  sleeping  cars  are  not  the 
subject  of  extortionate  extra  charge  as  with  us.  It 
is  true  that  they  are  not  supplied  with  bedding,  nor 
soap  nor  towels.  The  other  conveniences  are  how- 
ever given. 

The  lirst-class  car  accommodates  four,  the  second 
class,  five  persons.  There  are  no  chairs.  Sofas  run 
along  the  side  of  the  car  and  a  cushion  can  be  let 
down  making  two  comfortable    beds  in  each  row. 


loO  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

For  a  few  hours  a  man  could  rest  well  enouirli  on 
the  lounge.  But  for  all  night  each  passenger  pro- 
vides a  blanket  and  a  pillow.  These  cost  $1.75  and 
remain  his  property.  It  is  usual  to  have  a  male 
servant.  He  carries  all  luggage,  beds,  etc.  included, 
spreads  your  blanket  and  makes  you  comfortable. 
His  fare  and  compensation  seem  almost  trifling. 
His  passage  all  the  way  from  Calcutta  to  Bombay 
is  about  $6.  The  return  fare  is  even  less,  $4.50. 
His  wages  are  only  about  thirty  cents  a  day,  and 
out  of  this  he  provides  his  own  living.  He  pleads 
for  some  warm  clothing.  Two  dollars  and  a  half 
suffices  to  supply  this,  so  that  a  trifle  over  $20  will 
pay  for  liim  and  the  pillow  and  blankets.  When  you 
put  against  this  our  extortion  of  $5  a  night  with  the 
top  lid  down  on  you  unless  you  pay  $5  more  you 
conclude  that  India  is  more  economical. 

The  first-class  ticket  from  Calcutta  to  Bombay 
covering  about  1800  miles  is  $36. 

It  is  said  that  there  are  2000  temples  and  shrines 
at  Benares,  and  that  the  city  is  the  oldest  in  the 
world.  I  sec  no  signs  of  great  antiquity.  The  few 
temples  one's  stomach  permits  him  to  see  disgust 
him  very  thoroughly.  Gateways,  portals,  altars,  all 
the  associations  of  a  temple  vanish  as  vou  approach. 
Of  course  there  is  an  entrance.  A  few  feet  off  on  some 
sacred  pavement  which  you  must  not  touch  is  a  doll 
seated  on   the  floor,  representing  nothing  human. 


AROUND   THE  WORLD 


131 


tawdrily  dressed,  hideous  and  repulsive  to  the  last 
degree.  You  are  told  that  this  is  a  god.  Men  offer 
to  it  little  garlands  of  flowers  and  then  as  a  hlessing 
present  the  buds  to  you  calling  baksheesh.     One  of 


HhNARES— VIEW  OF  TEMPLE  AND  GHATS  ON  BANKS  OF  GANGES. 


these  hideous  holes  had  gilded  s})ires;  they  call  it 
the  Golden  Temple.  Another  is  the  Cow  Temple, 
still  another  is  the  Durga  Temple.  The  attraction 
there  was  to  see  the  monkevs.    But  even  this  failed. 


V 


132  FROM   INDEPENDENCE  HALL 

I  counted  three  on  the  roof  and  two  on  the  ground, 
ugly  and  dirty.  Yet  whilst  trying  in  my  liumble 
way  to  Hnd  relief  in  looking  at  a  poor  monkey,  two 
wretches  kneeled  in  front  of  me,  and  before  I  could 
realize  the  situation  they  inilled  out  of  their  bags 
two  boas,  four  cobras  and  a  handful  of  scorpions 
which  thev  exhibited  for  mv  delectation.  Nothing 
was  left  save  retreat.  But  tliis  is  difficult.  An  army 
of  men,  women  and  children  surround  you.  Their 
cries  are  stunning.  Yet  out  of  the  din  it  was  sweet 
to  hear  in  English,  "  May  the  good  God  bless  you, 
sir." 

A  Rajah's  })alace,  the  hospital  founded  by  the 
Prince  of  Wales,  and  some  other  buildings  are 
pleasant  to  the  eye.  But  the  rest  seems  to  be  a 
rough  collection  of  dirty,  squalid  houses,  unworthy 
the  name  of  residences. 

These  are  the  afftictions  brought  u})on  the  ignor- 
ant traveller  bv  his  faith  in  guide-books. 

Up  dirty,  narrow  streets,  then  turning  into  a  still 
smaller  passage,  through  noxious  odors,  you  come  to  a 
railing  about  four  feet  square  around  a  hole.  It  looks 
like  a  well.  They  burnt  some  paper,  let  some  em. 
bers  drop  down-down-many  feet.  Then,  they  ex- 
plained that  this  for  years  was  the  si)Ot  where  the 
fanatic  threw  himself  to  death.  As  there  is  nothing 
of  this   in   the   guide   book,  which   contains  all  the 


vi» 


AKOIXI)   THK    WOKLI) 


138 


MuiR'liauseii  fables,  the  story  is  merely  stated   for 
the  benefit  of  the  next  (iulliver. 

The  Ghats  are  stone  stair-cases  leading  to  tbe  river. 
You  descend   some  twenty  steps,  take  a  chair  on  a 


RESERVOIR  AND  GARDEN  IN  THE  CHOWMAHLA  PALACE,  HYDERBAD,  DECCAN. 

large  cranky  ])oat  and  the  men  row  you  a  mile  or 
so  up  and  down  the  Ganges.  The  view  is  pirtur- 
esque.  The  river  l^nk  is  over  Hfty  feet  high  in 
some  places.  Every  square  or  so  the  stone  stair-case 
appears.     Sometimes  it  is  in  a  straight  line,  again 


V 


134  FROM  INDEPENDENCE   HAI.I^ 

it  curves.  On  the  bank  appear  temples,  houses  of 
the  weahhy,  etc.  The  temples  have  all  the  pecu- 
liar spire  of  India.  For  some  forty  feet  it  ascends 
in  a  straight  line  with  four  sides  ;  recesses  appear  in 
the  work.  Then  it  comes  to  a  point  somewhat  like 
a  candle  extinguisher.     The  carvings  are  quaint. 

At  the  foot  of  the  bank  there  is  a  shore  way  along 
the  river  varying  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet  in  width. 
This  is  filled  with  narrow  planks  leading  to  the 
water  and  sometimes  you  see  a  small  screen.  Men, 
women  and  children  bathe  here  promiscuously,  save 
that  there  is  one  place  reserved  for  widows  and  an- 
other for  high  castes.  There  are  no  bathing  houses. 
The  men  generally  go  into  the  water  with  an  apron 
girdle.  The  women  are  completely  covered  with 
muslin.  They  descend  into  the  water  but  a  few 
steps.  I  saw  only  one  man  swimming.  When 
waist  deep  they  dip  up  the  water  with  their  hands, 
pray,  and  gently  wash  or  \ya\  first  the  forehead  and 
then  other  parts.  It  appears  to  l)e  a  religious  bath. 
For  the  cleansing  of  the  body  it  would  seem  not  to 
be  very  effectual.  I  have  never  seen  people  bathing 
in  such  dirt.  A  short  distance  from  the  shore  the 
boat  passes  through  hundreds  of  dirty  green  subs- 
tances floating  on  the  surface.  In  two  places  water 
descends  as  from  a  sewer ;  ami  one  woman  threw  in 
several  baskets  of  dirt.  Here  are  the  cremations ; 
we  saw  four  piles  on  fire.     The  bodies  are  brought 


APOIND   TUK    WOHI.I) 


135 


down  tied  up  in  plniii  innterial.  Tlii'  red  I  was  told 
wa.s  the  tV'iiiak' and  wliite  the  iiiaU'  color.  A  ])ile  of 
sticks  is  Idiilt  al>out  knee  ld,uli.  the  l)ody  is  })laced 
on  the  top,  then  sonic  more  wood  is  })]ac-ed  over  it. 


CREMATION  GHAT  AT  BENARES. 


The  whole  being  about  six  feet  long,  four  feet  deep 
and  four  feet  wide.  Straw  is  ignited  by  the  princi- 
pal mourner  and  thrust  under  the  wood.  A  son 
was  pointed  out  as  performing  this  rite.  The  cre- 
9 


180  FROM   INDEPENDENCK   HAI.E 


• 


iiKttioii  la^ts  al»out  t\\'(»  Imurs  aiiil  tlieii  all  is  thrown 
into  the  sacred  River.  The  chief  mourner  stays  in 
seclusion  for  ten  days  and  then  ui\-es  a  feast.  The 
scene  on  the  liver  is  full  of  the  cui-ious  hut  destitute 
of  the  cheerful. 

LrcivNow. — -The  journey  from  Pxauuvs  to  Luck- 
now  (■2(l"2  miles)  is  covered  in  eiuht  and  a  half  hours. 
The  land  seems  to  be  l)etter  tilled  and  more  attract- 
ive than  it  appears  near  Benares.  Cotton,  tobacco, 
sutiar  and  all  cereals  are  raised  in  India.  With  the 
exception  of  the  wild  cactus  and  tropical  trees  the 
appearance  of  the  soil  is  nuieh  the  same  as  in  other 
countries.  The  railroad  and  stations  are  all  English. 
The  residences  are  almost  unixersally  one  story 
high  and  according  to  the  rank  ot  the  occupants 
are  squalid  huts  or  stately  palaces.  Lunch  and 
dinner  are  served  at  stopping  places  but  in  rather  a 
meaore  stvle.  The  waiters  hardlv  si)eak  a  word  of 
English  and  the  traveler's  lot  'ds  not  a  hap])y  one." 

Lucknow  is  a  very  lian<lsome  city.  It  is  situated 
on  the  river  Gomtee,  which  has  the  unpleasant 
([ualitN'  of  suljmerging  a  subuih  w  hen  it  is  so  })leased. 
A  tablet  marked  a  terrilde  rise  so  recently  as  Sep- 
tember, LS94,  and  other  tablets  preserve  an  unpleas- 
ant record.  There  are  many  tine  drives,  splendid 
residences,  grand  mosques  and  scenes  of  great  his- 
torical interest. 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


137 


Amongst  the  liouses,  the  ^lartiiiiere,  as  it  is  called, 
may  probal)ly  i-aiik  as  the  hirgest  and  oddest  in  the 
world.     It  was  erected   by  General   ("laude  Ahirtin, 


(jAtevvay  of  the  palace  of  light,  lucknow. 


who  was  horn  in  Lyons.  IT-"')-").  He  sei'\e<l  in  the 
French  ai'iiiy  in  India  with  great  distinction,  rose 
from  the  ranks  to  liigli  command  and  was  taken 
l)risoner  in    llHl.      He  was   engaged  hy  the  Sawab 


138  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

of  Oudli  to  make  some  surveys,  settled  in  Lucknow, 
opened  a  bank,  became  immensely  rich,  built  this 
curious  })alace  and  on  his  death  left  the  bulk  of  his 
estate  to  charities.  The  buildint:,'  is  now  used  as  a 
.school.  It  has  nothing  to  attract  save  its  enormous 
size.  A  critic  condemns  it  as  a  "fantastic  specimen 
of  architecture  adorned  with  minute  stuccos  and 
enormous  lions,  with  lamps  instead  of  eyes,  etc." 

The  Sepoys  used  this  })lace  as  a  fort  in  the 
mutiny  of  1857.  Very  different  from  this  are  the 
Mosques.  The  Immambara  (house  of  the  Prophet) 
in  the  Muchee  Bhawun,  the  Ilosseinabad  Immam- 
bara, the  Jumma  Musjid,  etc.  The}'  are  beautiful, 
\\hite  structures,  all  standing  inside  of  tasty  enclo- 
sures and  of  large  proportions.  The  architecture  is 
what  we  call  Moorish.  The  floors  are  marble. 
They  all  ha\'e  silver  stair-cases  inside,  of  six  steps, 
some  leading  to  a  seat  whereon  we  may  imagine  a 
monarch  sat.  They  are  all  studded  with  beautiful 
lam}»s  and  candle  stands  six  or  seven  feet  high  for 
other  liglits. 

The  Mosque  first  named  was  built  in  a  time  of 
famine  to  provide  for  the  starving.  It  cost  i;l,000,- 
000.  The  length  of  the  centre  room  is  163  feet,  its 
breadth  o.'i  feet  and  its  height  49  feet.  The  length 
of  the  building  is  303  feet,  its  breadth  163  feet  and 
its  lieight  63  feet.  These  large  proportions  are  all 
arranged  with  })erfect  harmony. 


ABOUND  THE  WORLD 


1:^9 


The  llosseinabatl  consists  of  two  rectangular  en- 
closures. It  was  erected  by  the  third  King  of  Oude. 
The  Inimambara  here  is  divided  lengthwise  into 
three  rooms.     The  central  room  contains  the  tombs 


LUCKNOW,  THE    RESIDENCY. 


of  Mohanniied  Ali  Shah  and  his  mother.  The 
crown  and  other  insignia  are  exhibited.  There  is  a 
gilded  dome.  The  floor  is  paved  with  l)lack  and 
white    marble.     In    the    centre    of   the  s(|uare  is  a 


140  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

model  of  the  famous  Taj  Malial  of  Agra.  It  con- 
tains tlic  toml)  of  tlic  King's  daughter. 

Junnna  Musjid  is  tlie  great  Mos(]uc  of  Lucknow. 
It  boasts  of  lofty  and  massive  ])innacles.  Its  walls 
are  enriched  with  aral:)esques. 

Whilst  these  structures  must  be  acce})ted  as  fault- 
less in  their  way,  there  is  yet  a  sameness  al»out 
them.  Who  sees  one  sees  all.  Of  fai-  more  interest 
to  the  Anglo-Saxon  are  the  scenes  here  which  are 
full  of  historical  interest. 

("hiefest  of  these  is  the  Rc^idcticji.  It  is  now  in 
ruins.  It  was  built  by  a  Nawab  about  the  year  1800 
for  the  British  Resident  at  his  court.  It  is  one  of  the 
higher  s])ots  in  the  city.  There  are  several  large 
buildings  near  to  it.  One  a  dining  room,  another 
a  doctor's  house.  There  seeuLS  to  be  a  cluster  of 
buildings.  The  reader  knows  of  the  nmtiny  which 
broke  out  at  Lucknow  May  30,  18o7.  The  Resi- 
dency was  besieged  from  June  ."JO  to  Sei)tember  25. 
Cannonades,  minings,  assaults  were  all  resorted  to 
with  o\erwhelming  odds  in  faxor  of  the  mutineers. 
Every  attack  was  repulsed,  l)ut  the  buildings  threat- 
ened to  fall.  The  walls  arc  honeycombed  with  the 
marks  of  the  shells.  When  at  last  Havelock  and 
succor  came  the  l)rave  forces  of  1(592  had  been  re- 
duced to  979.  General  Neill  fell  during  the  action 
on  the  last  morning. 

As  usual  in  those  cities  there  are  the  old  quarters 


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142  .  FROM   INDEPENDENCE  HALL 

and  the  Ijazaars.  Tliev  are  all  alike.  A  })a.s.sage 
hardly  wide  enough  for  one  vehicle  and  the  crowd 
of  pedestrians,  is  lined  witli  two  story  huildings — 
some  frame,  some  nuid  and  some  }>lastere(l.  These 
are  thronged  with  liard-working  artizans  and  patient 
sellers.  At  one  spot  a  score  of  shoemakers,  further 
on  workers  in  brass  and  otlier  metals,  embroiderers 
of  cloth,  silk,  muslin  and  a  nudtitude  of  avocations. 
The  workshop,  factory  and  shop  may  l)e  one  room, 
no  l)igger  than  a  large  kennel,  say  eight  by  eight. 
Here  are  sometimes  two  men  hard  at  work.  Seve- 
eal  sewing  machines  were  seen.  Behind  is  a  room 
of  the  same  size  where  the  family  reside.  Would 
free  trade  introduce  to  the  United  States  this  life  for 
the  American  workman? 

To  the  credit  of  Lucknow  it  should  l)e  recorded 
that  her  bazaars  were  clean  and  orderly.  No  foul 
odors  here  salute  the  N'isitor.  The  climate  in  this 
section  is  very  pleasant  for  half  the  year,  l)ut  the 
rains  luring  intolerable  heat  and  the  snakes  come 
out  to  get  dry. 

A  traveling  companion  seems  in  dread  of  hostile 
visitations  even  now.  He  examines  liis  room  l)e- 
fore  retiring  and  puts  his  slioes  on  a  chair  to  avoid 
making  the  acquaintance  of  a  scor})ion  in  the  morn- 
ing. Caution  is  a  useful  friend  but  fear  is  a  cruel 
tyrant. 

This  hotel  (The  Im})erial)  is  very  large  and  is  w  ell 


AROUND  THE   WORLD  148 

kept,  'riieix'  are  no  second  stoi'ies.  Tlic  centre 
buildini;-  and  its  long  wings  luive  wide  arched  cor- 
ridors in  front,  all  firejtroof.  Tlie  bedrooms  ai-e  of 
good  size.  In  the  rear  is  a  bathroom.  It  is  sup- 
plied with  toilet  table  and  washstanch  There  is  no 
bathtub,  no  water  closet.  In  place  of  the  latter  is 
the  old  fashioned  commode.  The  l)ath  is  a  curious 
arrangement.  A  s})ace  about  six  feet  scjuare  is  })las- 
tcrcd  and  around  it  is  built  a  little  wall  about  ankle 
deep.  Within  are  four  earthen  jars  full  of  water 
and  a  large  bathing  pan.  On  the  level  of  the  floor 
is  a  little  hole  out  of  which  the  water  runs.  Back 
<loors  admit  the  ser\;nit  w  ho  comes  unbidden. 

Caavxi'oki:. — Twohoui's  on  the  i-ail  take  you  from 
Lucknow  to  Cawnpore.  Around  this  town  will 
cluster  for  all  ages  the  sentiment  which  commands 
sym])athy  for  suffering  and  indignation  against 
cruelty,  'idie  events  which  make  it  memorable 
have  l)een  too  often  written  and  are  too  well 
known  to  need  repetition.  Wdiilst  the  greater  part 
of  the  soldiers  were  at  church,  their  principal  build- 
ing was  seized  by  the  mutineers.  A  miserable  en- 
trenchment was  belli  Ijy  General  Wheeler  and  his 
heroes  for  twenty-one  days,  against  a  contiiuious  fire. 
The  well,  from  w  lience  the  water  needed  by  the  be- 
sieged was  to  be  drawn,  stood  outside  the  entrench- 
ment, and  the  sup[ily   was  only  to  be  secured  at  im- 


144  FKOM   INDEPENDENCE   HAI>r, 

niiiient  peril  of  life.  Tlie  })resence  of  ;i  iiuiiilicr  of 
\A'omen  and  children  in  the  English  cani}i  doul>tless 
induced  the  General  to  listen  to  an  offer  to  transport 
all  in  safety,  if  the  place  were  suri'endered.  Boats 
were  provided  and  the  whole  cam})  was  marched  to 
the  Suttee  Chowra  Ghat,  a  landing  })lace  on  the 
Ganges  al»out  a  mile  fiom  the  entrenchment.  Nana 
had  arranged  his  plans  with  minuteness  of  atrocious 
detail.  The  l)oats  were  all  roofed  with  straw,  some 
men  were  detailed  to  set  fire  to  the  hoats  on  the 
raising  of  a  tiag,  others  were  amhuslied  on  thcliaid^s 
to  rake  the  harges  w  ith  their  guns,  and  as  it  this 
was  not  enough,  cavalry  was  detailed  ddw  n  the  shore 
to  cut  off  any  who  might  escape.  At  the  given 
signal  the  matches  were  ap})lied,  the  fusilade  com- 
menced and  all  were  slaughtered  save  two  soldiers, 
Thompson  and  Mvu'jthy.  and  a  hand  of  women  and 
children,  who  were  hurrieil  to  the  town  and  confined 
until  the  approach  of  succor  when  they  were  har- 
barously  murdered  and  many  thrown  down  the  well. 
The  traveller  sees  the  well,  the  lines  of  the  old  camp, 
and  tlie  hullet  marks  at  the  wharf.  The  names  of 
the  unfortunates  are  preserved  on  tombs  and  on 
Ijrass  tablets  in  the  beautiful  chuivh.  In  the  Park 
ti;iere  is  a  glorious  figure  of  an  angel  in  marl»le.  It 
was  designed  l)y  Baron  Marochetti,  and  is  surrounded 
b}''  a  chaste  gothic  screen.  At  the  foot  of  this  mound 
are  the  tombs  of  manv  who  tell  in  tlu^  mutinv. 


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146  FKOM  independencp:  itali. 

The  Gluit  referred  to  as  the  phice  of  embarka'^)!! 
was  a  brown  building  wbere  Hindoo  women  (hsrol)ed 
l)efore  bathing  in  the  Ganges.  Along  the  river 
baid<s  are  stdl  marked  the  spots  where  the  unfortu- 
nate widows  went  through  the  rite  of  Suttee  upon 
the  funeral  piles  of  their  husbands.  If  England 
and  Christianity  had  done  nothing  more  for  lui- 
manitv  than  the  abolition  of  this  horrid  rite — the 
enemies  of  both  shonld  rise  u})  and  }troeIaim  their 
greatness. 

Agra  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  cities  in  India. 
It  is  nearly  six  hours  by  rail  from  Ca^^■npore.  The 
streets  are  generally  very  wide  and  well  turnpiked. 
The  bazaar  has  a  broader  thoroughfare  and  is  more 
inviting  than  the  rival  cities.  INIany  of  the  houses 
in  the  narrow  (juarter  have  second  stories,  with 
marl)le  verandas.  The  eitv  is  on  the  right  Ijank  of 
the  -Junnna.  On  a})i)roacliing  it  attention  is  attracted 
bv  the  large  Fort.  Its  walls  are  seventy  feet  high, 
with  a  circuit  of  a  mile  and  a  half.  It  is  built  of 
red  sandstone,  has  huge  towers  and  presents  an  im- 
posing appearance.  There  is  a  (Irawl)ridge,  a  deep, 
wide  moat,  a  huge  gateway,  an<l  a  long,  curved  as- 
cent winch  strikes  the  nnnd  as  a  pretty  serious 
oltstacle  to  an  assaulting  j»ait\-.  After  reaching  the 
top  of  this  hill  and  passing  an  inner  portal,  you  are 
in  the  palace  buildings.    These  monarchs  nmst  have 


AROUND  THE   WORLD  147 

eiijoyc'il  the  pleasures  n\'  this  life.  A  laki\  it  was 
said,  was  in  one  of  the  squares.  It  is  now  filled  up. 
Here,  in  excellent  preservation,  are  a  hall  of  })tiblic 
audience,  a  hall  of  })rivate  audience,  each  with  its 
throne,  a  court  500  feet  l)y  850,  surrounded  l)y 
arcades,  many  corridors,  the  Queen's  bed  and  bath- 
rooms, etc.  All  of  these  are  of  white  marble  and 
are  Ijeautifully  carvecL  It  is  said  that  here  500 
})eople  were  lodge(h  From  one  of  the  l)attlements 
could  be  seen  in  a  court  yard  frequent  exhibitions  of 
wild  beasts.  The  Harem,  the  grated  windows,  the 
private  apartments  of  the  illustrious  Arjumand  are 
all  pointed  out.  Here  too,  alas,  is  shown  the  })lace 
where  Shah  Jahan,  wdio  had  ruled  over  all  this  witli 
so  much  glory,  was  confined  after  being  dethroned 
by  his  son. 

The  oldest  parts  of  the  structure  date  from  the 
reign  of  Akbar.  The  inscription  over  the  main 
archway  of  the  .Jumma  Masjid  (Great  Mosque)  shows 
that  it  was  built  bv  Shah  Jahan,  commenced  in  1(339 
and  finished  in  1644.  During  this  period  he  was 
also  engaged  upon  the  tonil)  of  Ids  wife.  He  was 
deposed  by  Aurangzeb,  who  l)uilt  the  public  audience 
hall  above  mentioned  in  1685. 

This  large  })ile  embraced  a  small  city,  a})alaceand 
a  fort.  Though  possessing  no  strength  as  against 
modern  artillery  it  must  have  been  originally  re- 
garded as  a  mighty  stronghold — the  seat  and  the 
witness  of  great  power. 


148  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HAI.L 

The  Ta.i  Maiiai>  is  a  Ijeautit'ul  white  marble 
toml)  erected  Itv  Shali-Jalian  in  lioiior  of  liis  wife 
Arinajuml.  'riie  (•ar\'iiiii,-s  are  \'ery  eliaste  and  the 
entire  })ile  does  ereiHt  to  the  \'irtnes  of  the  wife  and 
the  love  of  tlie  hushand.  It  was  eomnieneed  shortly 
after  the  death  of  the  (^ueeii,  1()2J),  hut  was  not 
finished  until  1(>4<S.  It  has  l)eeii  so  rapturously 
described  by  scribblers  that  it  seems  dittieult  to  })re- 
sent  it  in  its  true  colors.  It  is  not  '"a  dream."'  It 
does  not  "battle  descri[)tion."  It  is  in  a[)pearance 
exactly  like  a  mosque.  Not  so  larue  as  the  largest, 
noi'  by  any  means  a  small  building.  Like  the  toml) 
of  Akbar  and  otliei-  illustrious  persons,  it  is  not  })ro- 
truded  ujKjn  a  highway.  You  enter  a  gateway 
which  is  itself  a  handsome  and  large  building.  You 
drive  a  few  hundred  feet,  then  on  foot  enter  another 
imposing  gateway  structure  and  tind  yourself  TOO 
feet  from  the  Taj.  These  distances  are  not  from 
measurements  sa\'e  by  the  eye.  The  grounds  stretch 
out  as  if  you  were  in  a  Park.  In  front  is  a  l)road 
stone  walk  divided  liy  a  shallow  sheet  of  water  with 
ends  of  pipes  at  regular  distances,  as  if  for  fountains. 
( )n  both  sides  are  flowers.  The  walk  half  way  is 
broken  by  an  ascent  of  a  few  marble  steps  and  you 
are  at  the  side  of  a  large  basin  of  water.  Passing  this 
you  descend  again  and  tlnis  you  approach  tlie  tomb. 
Its  size  may  be  understood  when  you  imagine  a 
building   of  excellent    proportions   whose   dome    is 


AROUND  THE   WORM)  14:» 

eighty  feet  above  the  roof.  The  crescent  was  esti- 
mated l)y  a  i,^entleman  at  my  side  to  be  180  feet  from 
tlie  ground.  A  writer  calls  it  243  feet  hio-h.  The  mau- 
solemn  i.>^  in  dcplh  and  width  1  si;  feet.  Inside  is  a 
large  octagonal  room.  Two  tond)s — one  of  the  Em- 
peror, the  other  of  liis  wife,  are  shown  on  the  floor. 
But  they  are  not  the  tombs.  ( )n  leaving  you  are 
invited  to  descend  to  the  basement  and  there  in- 
deed are  the  resting  |)laces  of  the  loving  husband 
and  the  faitliful  wife.  Many  panels  ai'e  iidaid  with 
agates  and  colored  marl)les,  i)ut  white  is  the  pre- 
vailing color.  The  main  building  stands  on  a  pla- 
teau: at  each  corner  is  a  marl)le  tower,  an<l  a  mina- 
ret, \'-M  feet  high.  There  is  a  mosque  on  each  side. 
A  floi'id  writer  states  that  this  structure  cost  £2,000,- 
000,  and  that  20,000  men  were  employed  on  it  foi' 
twenlv-two  vears.  He  ailds  that  •'  while  orazinir  on 
the  Taj  men  let  their  cigars  go  out  and  ladies  drop 
their  fans  without  noticing  the  loss."  Let  all  men 
reading  these  statements  draw  the  veil  of  charity 
over  the  delusions  of  the  gushei-. 

It  is  related  of  Armajund  that  a  sla\'e  was  brought 
l)efore  her  who  had  attempted  to  alienate  the  love  of 
the  Emperor.  The  Em})ress  drew  a  dagger  as  if  to  slay 
her  rival,  but  then  inserting  tlu'  point  in  the  ground 
and  breaking  otf  the  blade,  she  l)ade  the  offender  to 
note  the  vengeance  of  a  Queen. 

The    Pearl   Moscjue  is  near  to   the  Fort.      It  has 


150 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 


three  domes  of  marble  with  gilded  spires.  It  was 
built  by  8hah-Jahan  in  1654.  There  are  no  pearls 
in  it  and  a  traveller  near  me  who  asked  "  where  the 
pearls  were"  seemed  disappointed. 

The  tombs  of  Akbar,  of  Itimad-ud  Dowlah  and 
many  other  places  are  worthy  of  a  visit  simply  to 
while  away  time  ;  but  would  not  justify  much  labor 
or  expense  for  their  inspection. 


ELIII  is  six  hours  by  rail  from  Agra. 
It  strikes  the  visitor  as  a  more 
thi'iving  and  imposing  city  than 
Agra.  Approaching  towards  the 
west  appearances  improve.  Shah- 
Jahan  ruled  from  1637  to  1658, 
He  commenced  this  place  in  1648. 
Ten  years  later  the  Palace  Fort 
was  constructed.  It  has  a  circuit 
of  one  mile  and  a  half.  The  walls 
of  the  city  extend  five  miles  and  a 
half.  The  i)rincipal  entrance  to 
=^_  ,,  the   Fort  is  bv  the  Lahore  Gate. 

'»'Mam  Masjio  ^^  It  has  a  strong  resemblance  to  the 

citadel  at  Agra.  High  walls  of  red  turrets,  bat- 
tlements, moat,  double  portals,  etc.  The  Palace 
contains  beauties  of  marble  and  of  gilding  one 
does  not  tind  elsewhere.  There  is  a  vaulted  hall. 
375   feet    long,  which   has    been    pronounced    "the 


o 


10 


1-5:2  FROM    IXDKPKNDKXCK    HAl.I, 

noblest  entrance  to  any  existinii'  place."  There  are 
the  hirge  basins  for  fountains,  the  Private  Audience 
Hall,  the  a})artments  for  females,  their  bathing 
rooms,  the  King's  l)e(I  room,  his  bath  room,  etc  All 
these  are  of  white  marble,  most  of  them  beautifully 
carved  with  fine  traceries  of  vines,  flowers,  etc.  The 
Private  Audience  Hall  is  open  on  all  sides,  the  roof 
being  supported  by  s(juare  columns  beautifully  in- 
laid. In  the  eentre  foi'mei'ly  stood  the  furious  Pea- 
cock throne.  Nothing  now  remains  (»f  it,  save  the 
marl)le  steps  and  iilatform.  it  is  desci'ihed  ;is  hav- 
ing been  a  chair  of  solid  gold  five  feet  long,  four 
feet  broad,  backed  with  pixn-ious  stones,  arranged 
like  a  peacock's  tail,  glittering  with  rubies.  sap[)hires 
and  diamonds.  Some  report  the  ceiling  as  silver, 
others  say  it  was  of  gohh  It  is  estimated  to  ha\e 
been  worth  §80,000,000,  far  too  valuable  to  endure. 
All  this  has  been  carried  off  by  the  spoiler.  The 
large  marble  stone  in  the  centre  of  the  King's  bath 
was  used  for  shampooing  or  massaging  the  royal 
body.  The  baths  are  all  beneath  the  level  of  the 
room,  about  five  feet  deep,  and  six  to  eight  feet 
.square:  the  supply  and  exit  passages  are  still  hei-e. 
On  the  corner  panels  of  the  Audience  Hall  is  in- 
scribed in  Persian,  "If  there  be  a  Paradise  on  earth, 
it  is  this,  it  is  this,"  reminding  one  of  ^h)ore"s  cele- 
brated euloirv  on  Cashmere 


AROl'ND   THK   WORM)  I'v} 

"  For  if  this  wdI'UI  disc-loses 
Delights  unknown  elsewhere, 
'Tis  at  the  Feast  of  Ronew 
Within  thy  Vale  ( 'ashiuere." 

Tlicro  is  a  very  hcautirul  Prai'l  Mos(|iio  near  the 
Fort,  ami  one  of  the  largest  mosques  in  India,  per- 
haps in  the  world  is  within  a  short  distance.  It  is 
the  Juinma  jVIasjid.  It  stan<ls  on  an  eminence  and 
is  reached  by  a  luimber  of  steps.  These  are  studded 
with  beiryars — men,  women,  children — many  of 
them  sellers  of  [)igeons.  The  court  is  450  feet 
S(|uare,  and  it  is  said  that  it  will  contain  50,000 
worshipers.  The  arched  ways  at  one  end  are  cov- 
ered and  the  ceilings  are  beautifully  carved.  Three 
domes  of  white  marl)le  and  two  minarets  at  the 
front  adorn  the  roof.  A  little  house  at  the  end  of 
one  of  the  long  corridors  has  gilded  doors.  These 
are  opened  and  the  attendant  reverently  entering, 
shows  you  in  succession  sheets  of  the  Koran  written 
by  Mahomet's  son-in-law,  a  l^ound  volume  contain- 
ing similar  copies  all  in  Arabic,  a  slipper  of  Ma- 
homet, his  foot})rint  on  a  stone  resembling  agate, 
and  lastly  in  a  phial,  about  three  inches  long,  a 
hair  of  the  prophet.  This  is  one  single  hair, 
slightly  auburn. 

Kootim;  Mixar  is  about  eleven  miles  from  I)(dhi. 
The  road  takes  you  past  ruins  of  several  cities,  forts, 
many  toml)s,  mosijues,  etc.      During  the   whole  ride 


154  FKOM   INDEPENDENCE   HAEh 

sometliiiig  dilapidated  is  always  in  sight,  at  times 
you  can  count  half  a  dozen  domes,  all  going  to  de- 
cay. The  Emperor  Humayon's  tomb  is  less  than 
half  way  to  Kootul)  Minar.  It  was  built  by  his 
widow  and  it  is  pleasant  to  note  that  at  Delhi  and 
at  Agra  the  memories  of  a  deceased  wife  and  a  de- 
parted husband  have  been  touchingly  appreciated 
by  the  survivor.  This  structure  is  in  the  middle  of 
a  platform  and  it  is  over  100  feet  square.  The  plat- 
form is  ornamented  with  arches  and  has  four  flights 
of  steps.  The  mausoleum  is  of  red  stone  inlaid 
with  marble.  The  door  is  of  the  same  material 
and  as  usual  there  is  a  marble  dome.  There  is  a 
variety,  but  at  the  same  time  a  uniformity  in  these 
buildings.  They  soon  become  tiresome  except  to 
the  enthusiast. 

The  Kootub  Minar  is  also  spelled  Kutal)  Minar. 
It  is  a  curious  column.  Its  outside  is  grooved  and 
it  looks  like  an  enormous  Japanese  umljrella  closed. 
It  is  reported  as  '2oH  feet  ingh,  47  feet  diameter  at 
the  base,  upper  diameter  9  feet.  Fergusson  reports 
tlie  Kutab  and  its  surroundings  as  "by  far  the  most 
interesting  grou})  of  ruins  in  India,  or  }>e]'haps  in 
any  part  of  the  world."  The  qualification  of  the 
latter  part  of  the  compliment  is  very  pro})er.  It  is 
reported  as  dating  from  1200  to  1220.  It  is  situated 
near  the  centre  of  a  large  square.  Behind  it  are  ruins 
of  three  arches,  the  centre  about  thirtv  feet  in  height. 


AKOUNI)   THE   WOULD 


15.5 


At  the  side  on  a  sli,uiit  elevation  are  four  more 
arches,  the  centre  being  about  the  same  heiglit  as 
the  tirst  series.  The  walls  of  these  entrances  are 
nearly  nine  feet  thick.     Around  tlie  sides  are  corri- 


TOMB  OF  THE  EMPEROR  HUMAYON,  DELHI. 

dors  and  in  front  of  tlie  arches  is  an  iron  })illar 
about  twenty-two  feet  high.  The  lowest  diameter 
is  sixteen  feet.  It  was  erected  by  Rajah  Dhava  and 
its  history  is  recorded  in  cut  Sanskrit  A.  D.  319. 
We  were   told   all   these  details  and  that  the  square 


156  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALI^ 

referred  to  was  called  Butkliana.  No  great  de])end- 
ence  is  to  be  placed  u})on  guides.  But  if  this  infor- 
mation be  correct,  then  according  to  Fergusson 
these  })illars  "are  among  the  few  examples  to  Vje 
found  in  India  that  seem  to  I)e  overloaded  with 
ornament,  there  not  being  one  inch  of  plain  surface 
from  the  capital  to  the  base ;  still  the  ornament  is 
so  sharp  and  so  beautifully  executed,  and  the  effect 
in  their  present  state  of  decay  and  ruin  so  jMctur- 
esque  that  it  is  very  dithcult  to  tind  fault  with  what 
is  so  beautiful.''  The  same  remark  maybe  a|)plied 
to  the  arclies  and  to  columns  in  the  rear.  A  gen- 
tleman called  my  attention  to  the  fact  that  many  of 
the  carvings  represented  ropes  and  bells. 

I  said  that  the  Kutab  resembled  in  its  Mutings  a 
huge  umbrella  closed  but  uncovered.  The  shaft 
has  twenty-four  indentations  or  projections,  as  one 
may  please  to  call  them,  on  its  face.  These  are 
caused  by  twelve  curves,  and  twelve  angles,  all  })ro- 
jecting  outwards.  The  prevailing  color  is  red  choc- 
olate. There  are  four  l)alconies  or  stories.  From 
the  ground  to  the  tirst  overhanging  balcony  there 
are  five  upright  rows  of  colunnis  carved  at  top  and 
bottom  several  feet  deep.  It  is  said  that  the  inside 
steps  number  379.  To  walk  around  the  base  re- 
quired eighty-six  paces. 

I  was  told  before  I  went  there  that  it  was  the 
most  wonderful  sight  in  tlie  world,  and   that  before 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


157 


the  erection  of  the  Eiffel  tower  it  was  the  lii^host 
structure  known.  Is  it  a  jiity  tliat  the  imagination 
of  some  persons  is  so  very  ehistie  ?  or  is  it  best  that 
they  should  enjoy  these  beliefs  ? 


KOOTUB   MiNAR,  DELHI. 

(Jn  the  retuiii  JuuruL'y  one  sees  an  obser\at(jry 
and  a  large  equatorial  amongst  the  hundreds  of 
luins.  Some  idea  of  the  im})ortance  of  Delhi  may  be 
gathered  from  the  tbllowinu'  list  of  these  structures: 


158 


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104 


l'K(tl\I    INDKPKNDKNCK    HAM, 


I*]YPORE  is  over  ten  hours  by  rail 
from  Oolhi.  Tlie  wayside  lundi  am! 
(liiiiiei'  are  better  than  at  some  [)bices 
farllier  East.  But  tlie  wretched  huri-y. 
I'inuin^  of  bells,  etc.,  destroy  all  com- 
foi't. 

•leypore  is  the  seat  of"  a  Mahara- 
jali.  We  were  told  that  Maha  meant 
great,  so  that  a  Maharajali  is  superior  in  rank  to  a 
rajah. 

Thirty-ei,ti:ht  ditierent  castes  in  this  blessed  coun- 
try look  down  each  upon  the  other  with  supreme 
contempt.  Effigies  of  all  are  exhibited  in  the  nni- 
seum  here.  The  waxen  figures  present  striking- 
contrasts.  Two  of  them  strangely  enough  have 
shirt  collars.  Their  brethren  nuist  regard  them  with 
j)ectdiar  liorroi".  This  city  has  nuich  finer  buildings 
and  more  of  them  than  Benares,  Lucknow,  Cawn- 
pore,  Agra  or  Delhi. 

The  wide  streets  are  lined  with  houses  two  and 
three  stories  high,  painted  a  pretty  pink  or  choco- 
late, traced  with  white  arabesques.  Thousands  of 
pigeons  and  some  moidvcys  are  seen  enjoying  their 
freedom.  The  Hindu  to  his  credit  be  it  said,  re- 
spects tiie  birds.  There  is  a  fine  park  with  the 
usual  specimens  of  trees,  flowers,  peacocks  and  othei- 
birds,  etc.     The   tigers   have   a   separate   establish- 


2 

7) 

7) 

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0 

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163  FKOM   INDEPENDENCK   J  TALI. 

iiK'iit  at  a  distance.  When  news  reaches  the  Maha- 
i-ajali  of  a  tii2,er  bein^  seen  near  a  settlement  liis  men 
are  sent  out  and  tlie  animal  is  captured.  Some- 
times a  net  is  spread  across  a  path  into  which  he  is 
driven.  Sometimes  a  i)it  is  dug,  straw  and  a  goat 
placed  on  the  top.  When  snared  the  animal  is 
starved  until  very  weak  ;  he  is  then  cliaincd  and 
placed  in  his  cage  ;  occasionally  a  cub  is  caught  and 
we  were  told  marvelous  accounts  of  the  little  fellows 
being  raised  to  tameness  and  maturity,  walking 
about  like  cats,  suffering  children  to  tease  them,  etc. 
However  this  may  ])e,  it  is  certain  that  the  leopard 
is  tamed  so  as  to  assist  his  master  in  catching  ante- 
lopes. It  is  (juite  comical  to  see  the  beast  seated 
upright  by  the  side  of  his  kee})er,  directl}"  on  the 
highway.  The  tigers  here  are  fine  s})ecimens,  but 
not  as  large  as  those  at  Calcutta. 

The  factories  where  baser  metals  are  inlaid  with 
gold,  where  })olished  tiles  are  made,  fine  work  done 
on  metals,  cloths,  clay,  etc.,  are  all  worthy  of  visits. 

The  most  skilled  workman  receives  but  one  ru})ee 
(about  twenty-five  cent'^)  a  day. 

The  palace  is  a  fine  building.  You  pass  through 
several  gates  and  then  through  two  court  yards  con- 
taining residences  for  hun<lreils  of  eunuchs  and 
otliers  before  you  emerge  upon  the  main  edifice.  It 
is  very  liigh  and  surmounted  with  the  usual  orna- 
ments.    .Vt   tlie  side  are  a  larae  audience  hall  and 


O 


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168  FROM    INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

an  extensive  banqueting  room.  In  tlie  rear  are 
beautiful  gardens  witli  numerous  fixtures  for  foun- 
tains, illuminations,  etc.  it  is  said  that  these  cost 
a  very  large  sum,  Ijut  there  is  a  sameness  about  it 
all  suggestive  of  otlier  places.  Chatsworth  diffei's 
from  Kew,  and  both  from  Hyde  Park.  A^ersailles, 
Berlin,  Vienna,  Madrid,  Boston,  New  York,  Phila- 
delphia, eacli  has  a  distinct  type.  But  here  with 
very  slight  variations  all  are  alike.  Wlnte  marl)le 
abounds,  but  is  rarely  allowed  to  stand  upon  its  own 
native  beauty.  It  is  not  only  cut,  carved,  honey- 
combed, perforated,  screened,  twisted  and  tortured, 
but  it  is  painted,  inlaid,  gilded  and  bedizened  like 
the  women,  who  put  huge  rings  in  their  nostrils, 
metal  ornaments  through  their  lips,  bracelets  on 
their  arms,  anklets  on  their  legs  and  rings  on  their 
toes. 

A  school  of  Art  contains  a  numl)er  of  l)oys  learn- 
ing to  draw,  and  to  work  on  metal.  It  has  some  fine 
specimens  of  handicraft. 

The  hotels  here  and  thus  far  all  through  India 
exhibit  a  delicious  confidence  in  the  honesty  of 
mankind.  The  few  fastenings  which  one  finds 
hardly  deserve  the  name,  and  a  Cooley  can  iiisli  in 
upon  you  ad  libitum.  I  pleaded  last  night  for  a  key. 
It  was  promised  but  came  not.  Even  the  latch 
would  not  catch  upon  the  opposite  iron  and  the  wind 
blew  open  the  door.     Nothing  remained  l»ut  to  })rop 


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170  FROM    INDEPENDENCE    HAI.I. 

a  chair  against  it,  and  trust  to  Providence.  Not  to 
speak  of  men,  the  danger  from  dogs  or  other  animals, 
is  disturbing.     Hogs  and  jackals  circulate  at  liberty. 

Permits  are  required  here  for  visits  to  the  palaces, 
gardens,  etc.,  but  they  are  freely  granted.  At  the 
hotel  there  are  printed  blanks  whicli  require  simply 
your  name,  date,  etc.  The  Cooley  bears  the  paper 
to  the  proper  person  and  brings  the  permit. 

The  present  Maharajah  is  a  wise  and  liberal 
Prince;  he  has  founded  schools,  a  hospital,  etc.  The 
streets  are  lighted  with  gas.  His  stables  contain  300 
horses.  We  saw  no  superior  animals,  nor  anything 
worthy  of  a  visit,  although  a  Gusher  had  spoken 
highly  of  the  place.  The  four  ankles  of  the  animals 
are  separately  tied,  allowing  l>ut  a  few  feet  of  liberty. 

Amber  (or  Anibar)  is  a  suluirb  of  Jeypore.  A 
ride  of  an  hour  takes  you  through  several  miles  of 
cacti  to  the  foot  of  a  hill.  There  you  mount  an 
elephant  un<l  he  climbs  up  and  paces  down  grade  for 
forty  minutes  more.  You  go  through  old  gateways, 
past  walls  which  zig-zag  the  mountain  for  miles, 
through  a  village  which  was  centuries  ago  a  town 
enter  the  stony  remnants  of  old  fortifications  and  at 
last  reach  a  deserted  palace.  There  is  a  fine  garden. 
We  noticed  some  pomegranates  encased  in  earthen 
jars  exactly  like  those  our  children  use  for  })enny, 
deposit  banks.     These  jars,  however,  are  so  divided 


AKOUND   THK   WORLD  171 

that  they  can  Ije  opened  and  again  tied  togetlier. 
The  o])ject  i;^  to  protect  the  ripening  fruit  from  the 
l»irds. 

There  are  tlie  usual  halls  of  audience.  One  of  those 
at  Ainl)er  has  a  more  beautiful  ceiling  than  its 
counterparts  at  Delhi  or  Agra.  The  Maharajah's 
sanctum  is  lined  with  little  mirrors,  reflecting  a  hun- 
dred heads  and  hands  for  each  reality.  Last  of  all.  sad- 
dest of  all.  there  was  the  room  of  sacrifice  to  Kale,  the 
Goddess  of  Destruction.  It  is  a  marble  chamber 
about  twenty  feet  deep,  and  forty  feet  wide.  There 
are  two  small  pictures  of  this  Destroyer.  Three 
arches  represent  places  of  invocation  and  a  hole 
cov'^ered  with  ashes  is  the  spot  where  for  years  a 
human  being  was  offered  every  day.  When  it  was 
feared  that  the  population  could  hardly  stand  this, 
a  bullock  was  sacrificed.  As  these  animals  l)ecame 
scarce  a  goat  was  sul)stituted.    And  so  it  remains. 

You  meet  many  peacocks  and  monkeys  enjoying 
their  wild  liberty,  and  as  the  night  closes  'round 
thousands  of  crows  wildly  wend  their  way  through 
the  air  seeking  shelter  in  the  trees,  always  preferring 
the  leafless  branches. 

Why  did  the  Maharajah  in  the  years  gone  by  for- 
sake the  beautiful  palace  we  visitetl  and  build  him- 
self another,  almost  at  the  side  of  the  deserted 
castle?  This  was  the  tjuestion  we  put  to  the  guide. 
The  answer  was  suggestive.     He  said,  "simply   be- 


172  KROM    INDEPKNDENC'E   HALE 

cause  they  believe  tlmt  it  is  not  good  luck  to  live  in 
the  same  place  more  than  -lOO  years." 

This  ruler  we  are  told  has  no  children.  He  had 
two  daughters.  l)ut  they  died. 

The  weather  remains  cold  (January).  Fires  in 
bed-rooms  and  overcoat  outside  save  in  the  glare  of 
the  sun.  The  thick  walls  and  absence  of  light  give 
the  chambers  the  appearance  of  dungeons.  Higli  uj), 
nine  or  ten  feet  above  the  floor  is  a  sort  of  transom 
sash  admitting  Ijut  a  modicum  of  illumination.  Fre- 
quently during  the  day  a  light  is  needed  to  read  or 
write.  Rooms  constructed  for  the  tierce  heats  of  sum- 
mer are  rather  cheerless  when  the  thermometer  is 
below  60. 

Bombay  is  by  rail  H99  miles  (thirty-three  hours) 
from  Jeypore.  The  journey  re(]uires  two  nights,  with 
the  usual  trouble  about  refreslnnents.  Hurried 
meals  and  ignorant  servants.  This  trij)  across  India 
via  Benares,  Lucknow,  Cawnpore,  Agra,  Delhi,  and 
Jeypore  is  about  1895  miles.  The  straight  line 
would  be  about  1400  miles.  Bombay  is  warm,  the 
latitude  being  eighteen  degrees  nortli.  Philadelphia 
time,  twelve  o'clock  noon  —  here,  ten  P.  M.  The 
citv  is  located  on  tiie  sea.  In  the  harbor  are  manv 
vessels,  some  of  them  ships  of  war.  The  islands 
make  a  handsome  picture. 

The  Island  of  Bombay  was  given  to  the  English 


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V»ifc..           ^ 

174  FKOM   INDKPENDENCK   JIAI-L 

crown  in  1()()1  hv  Portugal  as  part  of  the  dowry  of 
Catharine  of  Braganza,  but  it  was  not  delivered  by 
the  Portuguese  until  1005. 

In  16()8  Charles  II  sold  all  his  rights  in  i>ouibay 
to  the  East  India  Company  for  the  magnificent  sum 
of  £U)  per  annum! 

The  ]iresent  city  was  then  only  an  unhealthy 
fishing  yillage,  but  l)eing  on  an  island  it  was  safe 
from  the  cayalry  of  Mahratta.  As  Surat  had  been 
raided  a  few  years  before,  the  Western  Presidency 
was  withdrawn  from  Surat  and  located  at  Bombay 
in  1<)S7.  The  po])ulation  was  then  about  10,000. 
It  is  now  aboye  800,000;  oyer  one-half  are  Hindoos; 
the  Mohammedans  number  200,000,  the  Parsees 
50,000,  the  Europeans  only  about  12.000. 

There  is  a  large  commingling  of  many  races. 
The  trade  has  svyollen  to  160,000,000  sterling  an- 
nually. Oyer  one-half  of  this  passes  through  the 
Suez  Canal. 

The  city  l;)oasts  of  many  superb  buihlings.  The 
\"ictoria  Terminus  is  one  of  the  finest  in  tlie  world. 
It  is  of  the  Italian  Gothic  style  with  a  front  of  oyer 
1500  feet.  The  walls  and  roof  of  the  interior  are 
decorated  with  blue  and  gold.  The  Admiiiistratiye 
office  building  occupies  three  sides  of  a  square  with 
a  fine  garden.  A  high  tower  rises  oyer  the  centre 
surmounted  by  a  figure  representing  Progress.  A 
statue  of  the  Empress-C^ueen  is  in  front  of  the 
buildintr. 


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176  FROM    IXDKPKNDENCE  HAIA. 

TnK  IviiYAi.  Ai.Fi;i:i)  Sailors'  Home  is  well 
wortliy  of  notice.  I  liiive  not  the  means  of  com- 
paring it  with  the  Home  at  Liverpool,  Ijut  l)otli  are 
splendid  institutions.  The  Bomhay  huilding  seems 
to  be  the  larger  of  the  two.  It  is  a  heautiful  struc- 
ture and  was  completed  in  1S7<).  Its  oljject  is  to 
secure  a  shelter  for  sailors.  Here  they  are  safe  from 
the  hoarding  house  plunderers.  The  cost  to  each 
sailor  is  only  one  rupee  (about  twenty-five  cents)  a 
day.  Officers  pay  thii'ty-eiglit  cents  a  day.  Tlie  lot 
is  aboutthree  acres:  thehuildingis  fire-proof  through- 
out. There  is  a  fine  lihrarv  and  reading  room. 
Boards  for  draughts  and  chess  are  su})plied.  There 
are  dining  rooms,  liath-i'ooms  and  everv  comfort. 
The  establishment  can  accommodate  five  hundred. 
The  ship-wrecked  and  distressed  are  entertained 
free  of  charge. 

The  Cavks  of  Elkpiiaxta  are  lauded  by  travel- 
lers as  objects  of  special  attraction.  They  are  not 
worth  the  trouble  and  expense  of  a  visit.  They  are 
on  an  island  sometimes  called  Gharajiuri  (the  hill 
of  Purification)  and  again  Garraj>uri  (the  city  of 
Excavations).  Years  ago  a  stone  elephant  stood  on 
a  hill  near  by,  and  the  Portuguese  called  the  island 
Elaphanta.  The  statue  has  long  since  been  removed 
and  is  now  in  the  ^^ictoria  Gardens.  The  island  is 
about  seven  miles  from  Bombav.     A  little  steamer 


AROUND   THE   WOKLI) 


carries  you  there  in 
about  an  hour.  You 
must,  however,  get  into 
a  small  boat  and  1)6 
rocked  and  wet  and 
rowed  some  five  min- 
utes to  a  curious  land- 
ing, composed  of  con- 
crete blocks  extending 
far  out  into  the  bay. 
Mounting  on  these  a 
walk  of  five  minutes 
takes  you  to  a  fearful 
succession  of  stone  steps 
leading  considerably 
over  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
up  an  ascent  of  over  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet. 
Here  you  must  pay 
another  fee  to  enter  the 
sacred  ground.  A  few- 
feet  bring  you  to  a  hall 
cut  out  of  the  l)lack 
rock,  some  say  133  feet 
l)y  130  feet.  Others  say 
ninety  feet  s<|uare.  It 
rests  on  |)i liars  fi'oui 
fifteen  to  seventeen  feet 
in    height.     In.stead   of 


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A  HINDOO  BRAHMIN  GIRL. 


178  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

being  of  considerable  elegance,  they  are  without  a 
particle  of  attraction.  There  is  a  three-lieaded 
figure  on  the  wall,  said  to  represent  Shiv  in  the 
character  of  Brahma — Shiv  as  Rudra  the  destroyer. 
This  is  embellished  with  a  swelling  above  the  nose, 
said  to  represent  a  third  eye.  iVnd  the  tldrd  face  is 
called  Shiv  in  the  character  of  Vishna,  the  pre- 
server. Cobras  and  a  human  skull  are  cut.  It  is 
stated  that  '"the  royal  tiara  is  most  beautifully 
carved,"  and  that  the  "face  has  a  stern,  command- 
ing Roman  expression."  But  this  is  all  imagina- 
tion. There  is  nothing  l)eautiful  or  commanding 
about  any  of  the  figures.  An  apartment  to  the  left 
and  a  chamber  on  tlie  other  side  contain  equally 
hideous  carvings,  all  without  a  particle  of  symmetry 
or  attraction.  Tt  is  said  that  tliese  were  cut  1200 
years  ago.  This  is  probal)ly  the  only  truth  stated 
by  guide  books  and  frothy  writers. 

The  view  of  tlie  city  and  the  bay  was  the  only 
return  for  an   afternoon   lost  and   five  rupees  spent. 

Thk  T(»w]:ks  of  Silence  are  also  represented  as 
an  attraction.  The  drive  occupies  an  hour.  On 
Malabar  Hill  you  have  a  splendid  view  of  Bombay 
and  the  sea.  This  is  all  of  your  return.  You  enter 
gates,  climb  a  hill  and  are  received  by  a  Parsee  into 
a  large  area,  said  to  l)e  of  75,000  s(|uare  yards. 
There  is  nothing   wonderful    here.     A   small   stone 


AKOUND  THE   WORLD 


179 


building  is  used  for  prayer  and  service  over  the 
dead;  it  can  not  he  called  a  l)uiial  service.  Then 
there  are  five  structures  called  towers  hut  they  are 
not  towers  in  any  })roper  sense  of  the  word.  They 
are  square,  ugly-looking  affairs  about  twenty-five 
feet  in  height,  with  an   entrance   at  the  end  of  an 


LUCKNOW— THE  MARTINIERE. 

elevated  road,  about  half  way  to  the  top.  It  is  said 
that  the  dead  are  carried  inside  and  placed  in  rows. 
In  every  building  there  are  216  ledges  in  three 
circles  of  seventy-two  each,  all  side  by  side,  not  one 
above  the  other.  Seventy-two  are  for  male  adults, 
these  are  in  the  circle  next  to  the  walls,  seventy-two 


ISO  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

for  female  aikilts  in  the  second  circle,  and  seventy- 
two  for  children  in  the  centre  circle.  The  five 
towers  can  therefore  accommodate  1080  bodies.  In 
the  centre  of  each  is  a  well.  The  bodies  are  left 
exposed:  the  vultures  strip  them  of  their  flesh 
and  then  the  bones  are  thrown  into  the  well.  (3ne 
is  shown  a  wooden  model  of  a  single  building  and 
then  he  goes  away  slightly  nauseated.  We  were 
told  that  two  bodies  had  1)een  carried  into  the 
building  pointed  out  to  us  a  few  hours  before.  On 
the  top  were  half  a  dozen  N'ultures.  Imagination 
supplied  the  horrid,  disgusting,  cruel  blank. 

The  pul)]ic  buildings  speak  well  for  English  taste 
and  enterprise.  The  University  Hall,  the  Yacht 
Club,  the  ychools,  Police  Courts,  Post  Office  and  the 
Secretariat  are  all  structures  of  which  any  city 
might  he  proud. 

PixjRAKooT  is  the  name  of  a  new  market  in  which 
are  hospital  enclosures  for  lame  and  sick  animals, 
who  are  fed  and  tenderly  cared  for.  The  Hindoo 
deserves  all  praise  for  liis  mercy  to  beasts.  Lame 
l)ullocks.  wounded  cows,  homeless  dogs,  and  even 
sick  pigeons,  find  a  refuge  here. 

A  large  proportion  of  tlie  colored  population  in 
Bombay  are  Parsees.  They  seem  to  l)e  wealthy, 
enterprising  and  benevolent  citizens.     Their  schools 


AKOUND  THE   WORLD 


181 


merit  high  coinineiidaliou.    Their  dress  is  European 
with  the  exception  of  the  Persian  hat. 

The  poverty  of  the  lower  classes,  and  the  climate, 


A  parshe  priest. 


account  for  the  number  of  bare  feet  and  bare  legs 
seen  amongst  the  Hindoos.  Of  tlie  men,  it  seemed 
to  me,  90  per  cent,  were  more  or  less  naked  from 
the  hips  down.     One   tiurd  of  these  denuded  males 


182 


FKOM    INDEPENDENCE   HALL, 


wear  nothing    below   the   thighs 


have  onlv  a  y,irdle. 


Some    of   them 
A  huge  number  however  wear 


a  sort  of  a  petticoat  or  apron  whicli  comes  below  the 


A  PARSEE  LADY. 


knee,  but  is  then  turned  backwards  to  the  waist  be- 
hind. This  arrangement  covers  the  greater  })art  of 
the  limbs  in  front,  Ijut   lea\"es  the  rear  of  the  legs 


AKOUNI)   THE   \\(H!LI) 


i8;-{ 


almost  entirely  nude.     The  Avonien  are,  as  a  general 
thing,  all  covei-ed,  a  large  ])ereentage  however  have 


-^->  >>.\v 


-■  0 


A  BRAHMIN  WOMAN. 


bare  feet  and  many  of  tliem  .s})ort  rings  on  their  toes. 
Some  of   the  sex    are  more  exposed.     When  one  is 


184  FROM    INDEPENDENCE   HAI.L 

walking  through  a  narrow  and  crowded  thorough- 
fare swarming  with  these  l)rown  skins,  some  in 
part  unclothed,  others  shining  in  lirilliant  colors, 
it  is  a  picture  which  pen  can  hardly  paint  and 
which  reminds  you  of  a  kaleidoscope. 

The  weather  here  in  January  is  delightful.  Open 
doors  and  windows,  with  fine  sea  l)reezes.  It  seems 
a  happy  escape  from  the  fierce  storms  and  biting 
cold,  the  sneezing,  wheezing,  and  coughing  of 
Philadelphia. 

The  curious  names  seen  on  signs,  and  on  the 
street  corners,  are  illustrated  by  a  few  specimens  : 

Sabapathy  Moodeliar  &  Co.,  Bank  St. 

Shagwan  Dass  Hurjeevan  c^'  Co..  Custom  House 
Road. 

B.  W.  Pathuck,  Tamarind  Lane. 

Cowasjee  Brother,  Cowasjee  Patel  St. 

Cursetjee  Muncherjee  Bhesenia  ct  Co.,  Hornby  Rd. 

Currimbhoy  Ebrahim  ct  Co.,  Khoja  Moluilla. 

Dinthaw  D.  Curranee  et  Co.,  Cowesjee  Patel  St. 

Dorabjee  Shapoorjee  &  Co.,  Elphintstone  Circle. 

Hamshedjee  Nusserwanjee  Tata,  Paree  Mazaar  St. 

Merwanjee  Nusserwanjee  Sons  cV'  Co..  Medows  St. 

Mooljee  Jaitha  tfc  Co.,  Tamarind  Lane. 

Muncherjee  Xowrojee  Banajee  it  Co.,  Hornby  Rd. 

Mansukhlall,  Demodar  &  Jnmsetjee,  Medows  St. 

Nusserwanjee  Bomanjee  Mody  Oc  Co.,  Hornby  Rd. 

Nanabhoy  B.  Jajeebhoy  &  Co.,  Hornby  Rd. 


AROUND   THE   WORLD  185 

N.  S.  Pocluijec  cV:  Co.,  Custom  House  Rd. 
N.  V.  Curraiiee  &  Co.,  Custom  House  Rd. 
Pestanjee,  Rustim  A:  Kola,  Medows  St. 
Purshotam  Bandoojee  c^t  Co.,  Medows  St. 
R.  Ranchaiidra  tt  Co.,  Forbes  St. 
Ruttonsey,  Denso  &  Co.,  Elpliinstone  Circle. 
Sorabjee  Shapoorjee  &  Co.,  Medows  St. 
Sorabshah  ct  Co.,  Medows  St. 
Tata  &,  Sons,  Parsee  Bazaar  St. 
Tanidass  Vurjdass  &  Co.,  Dalai  St. 
Thakurdaas  Dharamsi  &  Co.,  Esplanado  Rd. 
Tharie  Topun,  Samuel  St. 
Tvabjee  ct  Co.,  Humnum  St. 
Vi.sram  Ebraliim  &  Co.,  Samuel  St. 

The  Cyclones. — In  the  Autumn  terrible  storm?? 
have  been  known  to  inflict  fearful  disasters.  All  the 
Eastern  shore  of  India  is  exposed  to  these  visita- 
tions. A  history  of  them  has  been  given  b}'  Mr. 
Lanier  in  his  excellent  work,  "  Asia."  He  describes 
the  storm  of  October  31,  1876,  as  destroying  in  one 
hour  and  without  warning,  215,000  lives,  each  city 
losing  70  per  cent,  of  its  population.  This  was  fol- 
lowed by  the  cholera. 


186 


FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


FTER  enduring  the  inconveniences  of 
a  journey  across  India,  the  rest  and 
comforts  of  Bombay  produced  a 
regret  when  the  hour  of  departure 
arrived.  Tlie  Peninsular  and 
(Oriental  Company's  steamers  fur- 
nish every  luxury.  This  com- 
})any  has  l>een  in  existence  fifty- 
four  years,  having  been  incorpo- 
rated l)y  Royal  Charter,  December 
31.  1840.  Its  authorized  capital 
is  £3,500,000,  of  which  there  has  been  issued 
and  paid  up,  £2,320,000.  It  owns  a  fleet  of  fifty- 
one  ships,  and  has  now  in  course  of  construc- 
tion seven  more  vessels.  Besides  these  there  are 
twenty-three  tugs  and  launches,  making  a  total 
tonnage  of  259,593  tons,  with  243,545  effective  horse 
power.  Its  management  is  composed  of  the  best 
men,  and  the  results  are  most  gratifying.  The  re- 
ceipts for  1894  w^ere  over  £2,300,000,  on  which  divi- 
dends equal  to  5  per  cent,  on  the  preferred,  and  10 
per  cent,  on  the  deferred  stock  were  distributed. 
The  coal  preferred  is  the  Welsh.     Its  average  cost, 


AROUND   THE   WORLD  187 

the  year  round,  counting;  freight,  etc..  is  from 
twenty  to  twenty-five  shilling  a  ton.  The  Peninsu- 
lar burns  about  sixty-five  tons  a  day.  The  largest 
boat,  •The  Caledonian,"  consumes  eighty  tons  a 
day.  These  boats  pay  tolls  on  the  Suez  canal,  at  the 
rate  of  eight  francs  a  ton,  and  twenty-tive  francs  a 
head.  This  company  paid  to  the  Suez  Company  in 
1894,  over  a  million  of  dollars.  From  Bombay  to 
Aden  is  IBfjO  miles.  The  voyage  took  four  days 
and  thirteen  hours.  Aden  is  a  coaling  port  at  tlie 
southwest  corner  of  Arabia.  The  mountains  ri.se 
all  round  it  very  abruptly  and  the  summits  are  bare 
and  rugged.  It  is  said  that  the  rain  only  falls  once 
in  three  years.  Here  the  old  Romans  had  a  settle- 
ment and  traces  of  their  civilization  still  exist. 
The  Gulf  of  Aden  leads  to  the  straits  of  Babel-men- 
deb.  This  is  Arabic,  it  seems,  for  the  "Gate  of 
Weeping."  It  is  the  entrance  to  the  Red  Sea, 
abounding  in  shoals.  The  navigation  was  so  dis- 
astrous that  the  ancients  gave  to  the  entrance  this 
poetical  name.  Tlie  Strait  is  only  about  one  mile 
in  width.  To  the  left  on  an  eminence  stands  Perim, 
also  controlled  by  the  British.  Marvelous  and  far- 
reaching  power!  Away  from  the  breezes,  the  air  is 
very  hot.  Awnings  on  deck  and  punkas  in  the 
cabin  keep  one  happy.  The  Lascars  compose  the 
working  crews  of  these  vessels.  They  are  inhabi- 
tants of  India,  to  the  south   of  Bombay,  are   very 


188  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

(lark,  generally  wear  beards,  always  have  red  tur- 
bans and  look  very  savage.  They  are  described  as 
teachable,  but  the  slowness  with  which  they  got  a 
boat  uncovered  and  swung  it  to  the  side,  seemed 
almost  comical.  Instead  of  compelling  them  to 
learn  English,  the  poor  officers  are  forced  to  learn 
the  dialect  of  their  seamen.  When  I  asked  why 
ordinary  Hindoos  were  not  hired,  the  captain  told 
me  they  would  lose  caste  if  they  came  to  sea.  The 
first-class  fare  from  Bombay  to  Brindisi  is  |176. 
From  Brindisi  to  London,  including  sleeping  car,  is 
$74.  As  this  latter  takes  only  two  days,  it  seems  to 
be  the  highest  rate  known. 

The  distances  are: 

Bombay  to  Adeu 
Aden  to  Ismailia 
Tsnialia  to  Port  Said   . 
Port  Said   to  Brindisi 

3989 

Brindisi    to    Loudon   i^by  rail   and 

channel  boat)         .  .  .     1450 


1660  MUes 

1.356 

11 

43 

11 

930 

u 

5439 


Suez. — On  the  fourth  (hiy  you  reach  Suez,  1309 
miles  from  Aden.  In  the  Bay  you  pass  Sinai,  and 
further  on,  one  of  the  places  assigned  by  tradition  as 
the  crossing  of  the  Israelites.  Still  another  spot  is 
fixed  for  this  great  miracle  up  near  Bitter  Lake,  in- 


AKOl'ND   THE   WOKLD  189 

side  of  the  L-uial.  Suez,  once  a  great  place  for  trade, 
has  of  course  lost  its  importance  since  the  construc- 
tion of  the  canal.  Great  credit  is  due  to  de  Lesseps 
and  his  associates  for  tlieir  courage  and  perseverance 
in  this  hehalf.  I^ut  the  truth  is,  that  a  canal  ex- 
isted as  far  l>nck  as  the  reign  of  Pharaoh  Necho, 
and  the  Hve  lakes  whicli  form  part  of  the  passage 
reduced  the  })restige  of  a  work  at  most  hut  ninety- 
eight  miles  in  extent.  Lord  Palmerston  was  at  heart 
against  the  enterprise;  he  wisely  feared  political  com- 
plications. But  though  ]il)eral  in  ]>rofession  he  was 
ever  asking,  wliat  is  the  use?  and  how  can  this  l)e 
avoided  ?  In  this  spirit  he  commissioned  two  eminent 
engineers  to  examine  the  whole  scheme.  They  em- 
balmed themselves  in  history  hy  a  report  that  the 
canal  was  impracticable  and  that  the  Mediterranean 
was  two  feet  and  some  inches  above  tlie  Red  Sea,  a  de- 
duction absolutely  negatived  by  the  fact.  The  canal 
was  finished  in  1868  despite  these  prophecies.  Years 
afterwards  D'Israeli,  acting  under  the  interested  but 
able  advice  of  Piothschild  secured  a  grand  result  for 
Great  Britain  by  purchasing  the  stock  at  80.  These 
and  many  other  intei'esting  items  were  given  to  me 
by  Captain  Briscoe,  of  "The  Peninsular,"  who  many 
years  ago  showed  his  faith  in  the  enter})rise  by  in- 
vesting his  savings  in  the  stock  when  low  down  at 
20.  The  result  has  })roved  ins  sagacity  to  be  superior 
to  English  statesmen  and  engineers,  for  the  shares 


90  FROM    INDEPENDENCK   II A  I, I, 

now  command,  he  says.  120.  The  entrance  oi'  the 
canal,  called  Port  TewHk.  two  and  a  half  miles 
from  Suez,  is  marked  hy  two  huoys  and  the  whole 
channel  is  stakech  At  night  it  is  all  lightecL  The 
only  place  of  interest  in  the  neighborhood  is  in  Asia, 
about  two  miles  from  Suez.  It  is  called  "The  Wells 
of  Moses,"  and  is  reached  by  crossing  the  canal  and 
by  a  ride  on  a  donkey.  On  either  side  Arabia  and 
Egypt  vie  in  their  display  of  long,  low  stretches  of 
desert.  Here  and  there  is  a  village,  or  a  camp  of 
Arabs  and  camels.  Occasionally  tliore  is  a  pretty 
station  with  a  palm  tree,  tlie  rest  is  a  desolation, 
marked  only  by  buoys,  little  gas  tanks  to  illuminate 
the  channel:  men  and  camels  engaged  in  cutting  off 
corners  and  small  posts  marking  the  miles  and  tenths 
of  miles,  ^"essels  may  follow;  two  are  astern  as  I 
write,  but  passing  abreast,  both  in  motion  is  not  al- 
lowed. One  ship  nuist  tie  up.  The  channel  is  very 
narrow,  in  })laces  not  over  150  feet  in  width  and  is 
shallow.  At  the  sides  of  the  passage  a  few  feet  of 
water  cover  slioals  visible  to  the  eye  and  the  banks 
are  lined  with  stone  walls  and  little  palisades  to  pro- 
tect from  the  wash.  Dredgers  are  also  employed. 
The  time  usually  consumed  in  passing  from  Suez  to 
Port  Said  is  titteen  hours.  Of  course  an  accident 
may  ol>struct  commerce  for  some  time.  A  passenger 
told  me  that  he  had  been  delayed  here  four  days. 


AROUND   TJIE   WORLD  191 

IsMAiiJA  is  Oil  Laki'  Timsah  luilf  way  l»(,'t\veen 
Suez  and  I'ort  Said.  Travellers  can  land  at  Sue/., 
and  take  the  rail  to  Ismailia  (three  hours)  and  thence 
to  Cairo  about  four  iiours.  Or  as  the  time  table  may 
rec|uire,  they  can  leave  the  boat  at  Ismailia.  The 
majority  prefer  this  plan.  The  rail  also  runs  to 
Alexandria,  three  hours  to  Cairo  by  the  fast  line 

Port  Said  is  about  seven  hours  by  boat  from  Is- 
mailia. It  is  the  northern  terminus  of  the  canal 
and  its  little  area  is  owned  in  strips  by  several  sov- 
ereignties. It  is  remarkal)le  only  for  its  splendid 
breakwaters  and  its  vices. 

Caxdia. — On  tlie  second  day  from  Port  Said  we 
passed  a  little  to  the  south  of  Candia  (Crete).  This 
l)eaiitil'ul  island  is  KiO  miles  long  and  for  several 
hours  we  looked  with  admiration  on  its  high  moun- 
tains covereil  with  snow.  The  light  of  the  setting 
sun  made  them  tlie  handsomest  ol)ject  seen  in  a  very 
long  voyage.  Here  Paul  sailed  and  crossed  to  the 
little  Island  of  Claudia. 

Zaxte. — Remarkable  for  currants  and  earth- 
quakes. Ce})halonia  and  other  islands  were  })assed 
on  the  thir<l  day  from  Port  Said.  We  are  due  this 
midnight  at  Brindisi,  nearly  thirteen  days  from 
Boml)ay.  All  over  these  routes  the  stoppages  seem 
timed  for  unwelcome  hours.     Those  who   land  and 


192  FROM   INDEPENDENCE  HAI.I. 

those  who   veMiain   are   alike   toi'tured  l)y  these  un- 
timely arrivals. 

From  Brindisi  to  Loiidou  the  overland  mail  takes 
about  fiftv  hours. 


HISTORIC  SKETCH  OF  THE  ANGLO-INDIAN 

EMPIRE. 

The  effective  control  of  a  domain  of  vast  terri- 
torial extent,  containing  a  population  of  over  200 
millions,  perhaps  a  full  sixth  of  that  of  the  entire 
globe,  1)V  a  people  utterly  inferior  in  point  of  lunn- 
bers,  an<l  whose  seat  is  at  the  remote  Antipodes,  is  a 
phenomenon  which,  botli  in  its  historic  and  sociologi- 
cal aspects,  is  singular  and  striking.  A})art  from  its 
political  significance,  the  growing  importance  of 
British  India  as  a  factor  in  the  world's  affairs  and 
its  increasing  influence  on  economic  conditions  in 
this  country,  will  make  a  brief  review  of  the  devel- 
opment of  British  I'ule  in  India  of  interest  to 
every  American  reader.  The  following  historic 
sketch  has  accordingly  been  condensed  for  these 
pages  from  the  lucid  recital,  by  W.  W.  Huntei-.  in 
his  "  Brief  History  of  the  Indian  Peo})le." 

The  first  territorial  possession  of  the  English  on 
the  mainland  of  the  Indian  i»eninsula  was  Fort  St. 


AROUND   THK   WORLD  193 

Geor»!,e,  now  Madras,  fouiuUMl  by  Francis  Day  in 
1639.  The  French  settk^nient  of  I\)n(Hcherri,  al)()ut 
one  hundred  miles  farther  down  tlie  eastorCoro- 
mandel  coast,  was  established  in  1()74,  and  for  jiboiit 
seventy  years  the  two  races  lived  and  traded  peace- 
ably together.  The  war  between  England  and 
France  in  1744  broke  this  long  ])eace.  Dupleix, 
one  of  tlie  ablest  Frenchmen  of  his  time  was 
Governor  of  Pondicherri.  The  other  great  actor  in 
Indian  history,  Clive,  the  Englishnian,  was  then  in 
a  business  ofhce,  at  Madras.  An  English  fleet  first 
put  in  an  ap}>earance,  Imt  Dupleix  by  skillful 
diplomacy  induced  the  native  })rince,  the  Nawal)  of 
Arcot,  to  prevent  hostilities.  In  1 74(i  a  French 
fleet  appeared  and  Madras  surrendered  almost  with- 
out a  blow,  leaving  Fort  St.  Davitl,  some  miles 
south  of  Pondicherri,  the  only  fort  licid  l>y  the 
English  race  in  India.  Here  Clive  and  a  few  other 
fugitives  sought  shelter.  The  Na\\a]j,  fn<leavoring 
to  be  entirely  im})artial  sought  to  drive  out  the 
French  but  was  defeated.  In  1708  an  English  fleet 
under  Boscawen  laid  siege  to  Pondicherri  aided  by 
an  army  under  Lawrence,  but  unsuccessfully.  The 
treaty  of  Aix-la-Chap})elle,  however,  I'estored 
Madras  to  the  English. 

The  second  war  between  the  French  and  English 
in  India  had  no  reference  to  European  complica- 
tions.      Disputed    successions    among    the    native 


194  FROM    IXDKPENDENCE  HAI.I, 

l)riiiees  gave  l)u])k'ix  tlie  chance  of  becominsr 
arbiter,  who  Ijy  this  means  hoped  to  erect  a  great 
Frencli  empire  in  India.  Had  Dnpleix  been  as 
great  in  the  tield  as  he  was  able  and  l)old  in 
diplomacy  history  for  the  200,U()( ),()(){)  of  India 
would  have  been  different.  It  was,  however,  the 
good  fortune  of  the  English  to  have  a  series  of  able 
soldiers,  the  chief  of  whom  was  Lord  Clive.  The 
ca}>ture  and  defence  of  Arcot  by  Clive  in  1751,  the 
battle  of  Wandewash.  won  by  Sir  Eyre  Coote  in 
1760  and  the  capture  of  Pondicherri  by  the  same 
soldier  in  1761  ended  forever  the  dream  of  Dupleix 
of  founding  an  empire  in  India.  This  was  the  close 
of  the  war  l»etween  the  English  and  French  in  India, 
brought  about  by  their  support  of  rival  candidates 
for  the  throne  of  Arcot.  The  next  steps  for  the 
foundation  of  English  supremacy  were  taken  against 
the  native  princes,  the  scene  shifting  with  Clive  to 
Bengal,  the  northern  ]:)art  of  India. 

The  war  in  Bengal,  of  whicb  the  famous  i:»attle  of 
Plassey  (1757)  was  the  turning  point,  began  like 
the  war  of  1746.  in  the  fact  of  the  Frenchand  English 
being  at  war  with  each  other  in  Europe.  Clive 
captured  the  French  settlement  of  Chandarnagar  on 
the  Iloogli  River,  near  Calcutta.  This  was  within 
the  domains  of  the  Xawab  of  Bengal,  Surajah  Daw- 
lah,  the  man  responsil)le  for  the  "Black  Hole"  epi- 
.sode  of  Cak-utta.  ni  1  756.    Outraged  at  tliis  violation 


AROUND   THE   WORLD  Iflo 

of  neutrality  the  Nawab  sided  with  the  French, 
('live  niarclied  to  the  ^rove  of  Plassey,  seventy 
miles  from  (  alciitta,  with  a  force  of  1000  Europeans, 
2000  Sepoys  and  eight  pieces  of  artillery.  The 
Nawal)  is  said  to  have  had  35,000  foot,  15,000 
cavalry  and  fifty  guns.  He  attacked  with  his  whole 
artillery  at  six  in  the  morning,  (jlive,  knowing  his 
inferiority  in  this  respect  kept  his  men  well  sheltered 
"in  a  grove,  surrounded  with  good  mud  banks."  At 
noon,  the  Nawab's  men  drew  off  for  diinier,  feeling, 
no  doul)t,  perfectly  safe  in  their  vast  superiority  of 
numbers  and  equipment.  Whilst  at  dinner,  Clive 
attacked  one  of  their  out})Osts,  and  stormed  "an 
angle  of  the  cam})."  Several  leading  officers  of  the 
Nawab  fell  and  the  latter,  suri)rised  at  the  confusion, 
fled,  his  troops  flying  in  panic  Clive,  no  doubt,  as 
much  surprised  as  any,  found  himself  ^^■inner  of  a 
great  victory,  and  the  British  Empire  in  India  was 
born.  This  day  was  June  23,  1757,  an  aiuiiversary 
celebrated  100  years  later  by  the  blood  and  terror  of 
the  revolt  of  the  Sepoys  in  1857. 

In  1758,  Clive  was  appointed  by  the  East  India 
Company  the  first  governor  of  all  its  settlements  in 
Bengal.  Though  Plassey  is  generally  deemed  to 
have  given  birtli  to  the  Indian  Empire,  yet  years  of 
toil  and  bloodshed  were  yet  to  come  before  it  should 
be  firmly  founded.  Indeed,  it  may  l)e  said,  not  to 
have  been  aljsolutelv  entrenched  until  after  the  Se- 


196  FROM    IXDEPEXDENCE   HALL 

poy  mutiny  of  lSo7.  Clive  found  two  wars  threat- 
ened immediatly  upon  his  accession  to  the  "overnor- 
sliip,  one  by  the  Shahzada,  or,  as  he  was  called  after- 
wards, the  Emperor  Shah  Ahim,  the  other  by  the 
Frencli  at  Madras.  The  former  leading  an  army  of 
'Afghans  and  Mahrattas,  and  supported  ])y  the 
Nawab  of  Oudh.  asserted  his  claim,  as  Emperor,  to 
the  |)rovince  of  Bengal  and  laid  siege  to  Patna,  an 
important  post  about  i]i)^)  miles  northwest  of  Cal- 
cutta. Clive  marched  in  })erson  to  the  rescue,  with 
the  ridiculously  small  force  of  450  Europeans  and 
2o00  Sepoys:  yet  so  great  was  the  terror  of  his  very 
name  that  the  Mogul  army  dispersed  without  waiting 
to  be  attacked.  In  the  south.  Colonel  Forde  recaptured 
Masilupatam  from  the  French,  and  permantly  estab- 
lished English  authority  at  Hyderabad  and  through 
the  northern  Circars.  Clive  in  person  attacked  the 
Dutch  and  defeated  them,  both  on  land  and  sea,  and 
rendered  them  utterly  unable  to  rival  the  English, 
to  aid  the  French,  or  even  hold  their  own  settle- 
ments, or  anything  else  than  the  sufferance  of  the 
victors. 

From  1760  to  1765  Clive  was  in  England  and  a 
war  sprung  up  in  his  absence.  Mir  Jafai-,  whom 
the  English  had  just  put  as  their  puppet  upon  the 
viceregal  tlu'one  of  Murshidabad  to  succeed  the 
Siraj-ud-Daula  (or  Surajah  Dowlah),  after  the 
defeat  of  the  latter  at  Plassey,  as  already  described, 


AROUNI>  THE   WORIjI)  197 

was  displaced  and  Mir  Ivasiin,  his  son-indaw,  was 
seated  in  his  throne.  The  hitter  proceeded  to  in- 
trigue with  the  Nawa))  of  Oiidh,  ah'eady  mentioned, 
and  to  organize  a  force  on  the  English  model,  with 
the  ho[)e  of  trying  conclusions  with  the  latter.  A 
quarrel  over  the  inland  duties  in  Bengal  afforded 
the  excuse,  the  natives  refusing  to  pay  to  the  Na- 
wab's  officers  on  the  ground  that  they  (the  natives) 
were  acting  for  the  English  company.  The  Na- 
wab's  men  massacred  2000  Sepo^'s  at  Patna  and 
some  hundreds  of  Europeans  who  fell  into  their 
hands  there  and  in  oilier  parts  of  the  province.  In 
pitched  l)attles,  liowever,  Mil'  Kasim's  trained  regi- 
ments were  utterly  defeated  by  Major  Adams  at 
Gheriah  and  Udha-nala  and  the  leader  took  refuge 
with  the  Nawab  of  Oudh.  To  add  to  the  difficulties 
of  the  English,  the  first  Sepoy  mutiny  broke  out  in 
their  camp.  It  was  quelled  l)y  Sir  Hector  Munro 
and  twenty-four  ringleaders  were  blown  from  the 
mouths  of  cannon,  this  being  an  old  Mogul  form  of 
punishment.  The  war  ended  by  Sir  Hector's  decis- 
ive victory  at  Baxar  in  17»J4,  which  laid  Oudh  at 
the  feet  of  the  English  ami  brought  the  Mogul  Em- 
peror, himself,  Shah  Alaiu  (already  mentioned  as 
the  })rince  Shahzada)  a  suppliant  to  the  camp  of  the 
conquerors. 

Ill    17<)0  C'live  returned  to  India  as  Governor  of 
Bengal.     He  restored  Oudh  to  the  Nawab  for  halt 


]9S  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   JIALI. 

a  million  sterling,  toward  war  expenses.  A  puppet 
was  maintained  at  Murshidaliad  and  the  fiscal  ad- 
ministration only  of  Jjengal,  Beliar  and  Orissa,  as 
well  as  the  territorial  jurisdiction  of  the  Northern 
Circars  was  given  to  the  East  Indian  Company.  A 
task  much  greater  for  Clive,  however,  was  the  re-or- 
ganization of  the  Civil  iService  of  the  company. 
This  was  Ijrought  about  by  an  increase  in  salaries 
and  a  prohil)ition  to  all  officers  from  engaging  in 
private  trade  and  from  receiving  presents  (that  is, 
bids)  from  the  native  })Owers.  Clive  returned  to 
England  finally  in  1707. 

The  great  famine  of  1770,  in  which  it  is  said  that 
one  thii'(l  of  the  people  of  India  perished,  was  the 
only  great  event  between  this  date  and  the  governor- 
ship of  the  famous  Warren  Hastings,  beginning  in 
1772.  Clive's  double  system  of  control  already 
adverted  to  was  shown  to  be  a  failure.  The  puppet 
Nawab  of  Murshidabad  had  received  an  allowance 
from  the  English  of  600,000  pounds  sterling,  when 
first  appointed  by  Clive.  The  latter  before  leaving 
India  had  himself  cut  this  enormous  .sum  down  to 
450,000  pounds,  in  1706,  on  the  accession  of  a  new 
Nawab,  and  to  350,000  pounds  on  a  fresh  succession 
in  1769.  Six  months  before  Clive  became  governor, 
the  Court  of  Directors  of  the  East  India  Company 
had  ordered  the  sum  cut  down  about  one-half,  or  to 
about  160,000  ^Hjunds.     Hastings  carried  this  order 


ABOUND  THE   M^OBL,D  199 

out,  though  ill  lii.s  famous  trial  before  the  English 
Parliament,  this  was  charged  against  him,  as  an  act 
of  oppression  and  of  treaty  breaking  as  to  the 
Nawab.  Another  act  of  Hastings  was  the  sale  of 
Allahabad  and  Kora  to  the  Wazir  of  Oudli. 

The  provinces  liad  l»een  assigned  to  the  Emperor 
Shah  Alam,  already  mentioned  together  with  a 
tribute  of  .300,000  pounds  sterling  in  return  for  the 
grant  of  Bengal  to  the  English.  Shortly  after  this 
grant  the  Marhattas.  a  warlike  northern  race,  had 
attacked  the  Emperor  and  seized  his  person.  Hast- 
ings held  that  this  destroyed  the  Emperor's  inde- 
pendence and  tliat  it  would  l)e  folly  to  continue  pay- 
ing tribute  to  have  it  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Mar- 
hattas,  thus  strengthening  their  liands  against  the 
time  when  the  English  should  have  to  fight  them. 
He  therefore  withheld  the  tribute.  He  also  resold 
Allahabad  and  Kora  to  the  Wazir  of  Oudh  for  halt 
a  million  sterling  and  at  the  same  time  freed  the 
company  of  a  military  burden  of  nearly  as  much 
more,  making  a  saving  in  Indian  finances  of  nearly 
five  million  dollars  per  aniiuiii.  Cliait  Sinh,  the 
Rajah  of  Benares,  revolted,  and  his  estates  were  for- 
feited ;  the  Begum,  or  Queen  Mother  of  Oudh,  on  a 
charge  of  abetting  him  was  also  fined  to  the  extent 
of  one  million  sterling.  Hastings'  trial  before  the 
Lords  for  these  and  other  acts  of  oppression  lasting 
13 


200  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HA  J.  I. 

from  1788  to  1795,  was  one  of  the  greatest  state 
trials  of  liistorv. 

It  resulted  in  his  acquittal  but  left  him  ruined. 
The  excuse  offered  for  Warren  Hastings'  course  was 
that  he  had  to  fight  for  life  against  princes  who  broke 
faith  with  him  and  that  he  used  his  power  more 
mercifull}"  than  any  Mogal  Viceroy  would  have 
done.  That  he  was  the  greatest  man  that  ever  ruled 
India  is  now  universally  admitted. 

The  Marhatta  war  of  1778-1781  was  signalized 
by  brave  acts,  but  beyond  this  seems  to  have  been 
entirely  fruitless.  The  war  with  Hyder  Ali,  of 
Mysore  and  the  Xizam  of  the  Deccan,  the  two 
strongest  Mohammedan  powers  in  In(ha,  was  almost 
disastrous  to  the  English.  Hyder  cut  several  English 
forces  to  pieces  and  ravaged  the  Karnatic,  an  English 
province,  so  that  it  was  said  not  a  living  thing  re- 
mained in  it.  Hyder  was  an  able  soldier  and, 
when  he  died  in  1782,  peace  was  concluded  with 
his  son  by  mutual  restitution  of  all  conquests. 

Lord  Cornwallis  was  twice  governor  general,  first 
from  1786  to  I7y-j  and  again  in  180-").  He  im- 
proved and  l)uilt  ujjou  the  foundations  of  ciN-il 
administration  laid  by  Hastings,  first  gave  criniinal 
jurisdiction  to  Europeans  and  carried  into  execution 
the  permanent  settlement  of  the  land  tax  for  Ben- 
gal. In  the  second  Mysore  war  with  Ti})U  Sultan, 
son  of  Hyder  Ali  (1790-1792),  Lord  Curnwallis  led 


AROUND  THE   WORLD  201 

in  person,  conquering  from  the  enemy  one-half  of 
hiri  possessions  and  exacting  tribute  of  three  mil- 
lions sterling. 

Sir  John  Shore  (afterward  Lord  Teignniouth)  was 
governor-general  from  1793  to  1798,  and  ^^•as  suc- 
ceeded hy  Lord  ^h)rnington,  better  known  as  the 
Marquis  of  Wellesley.  He  is  credited  with  laying 
douii  the  Imperial  policy  of  India,  viz:  that  Eng- 
land should  be  the  one  })araniount  power  and  that 
native  }>rinces  sliould  only  be  permitted  to  reign  by 
surrendering  their  political  independence.  The 
logical  and  final  result  of  this  was  the  proclamation 
of  ^"ictoria  as  Empress  of  India. on  January  L  1>^77. 
Wellesly  bought  the  Doal),  a  fertile  province,  from 
the  Xawab  Wazir  of  Oudh  in  consideration  of  the 
unpaid  l)alance  of  subsidies  owed  by  the  latter  to  the 
English.  He  entered  into  treaty  with  the  Nizam 
of  Hyderabad  and  without  bloodshed  turned  him 
into  an  ally.  He  also  made  him  promise  to  employ 
no  Europeans  without  English  consent,  a  provision 
aimed  to  destroy  tlie  Frencli  influence  at  the 
Nizam's  Court.  Tippoo,  the  Sultan  of  Mysore,  had 
intrigued  witli  the  French  and  war  was  declared 
against  him.  As  became  a  soldier  and  a  king  he 
died  in  the  trench  at  the  storming  of  Seringapatam, 
1799.  His  estates  were  divided  between  the  Eng- 
lish, their  native  allies  and  an  infant  Hindu  })rince 
whose  ancestors  had  been  robbed  by  Tippoo's  father, 


202  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HAI>L 

the  ( Treat  Hyder  Ali.  Tip})Oo's  sons  were  treated 
with  the  greatest  kiiKhiess,  and  tlie  hist  of  liis 
descendants  died,  a  magistrate  at  Calcutta,  in  is 7 7. 
After  this  the  English  devoted  their  attention  to  the 
loose  Marhatta  Confederacy,  the  third  power  of 
Southern  India.  The  second  Marhatta  War  (1802- 
1803)  followed,  said  to  Ije  the  most  glorious  chapter 
in  the  English  Wars  in  India,  though  there  were 
some  disasters,  as  in  the  first  war  with  Hyder  Ali  in 
Mysore.  In  Northwestern  India,  Loi'd  Lake's  cam- 
paigns brought  the  northwest  [)rovinces  under 
English  rule  together  with  the  old  Emperor,  the 
puppet  successor  of  the  Great  Mogul.  Tins  office  of 
Emperor  actually  maintained  a  shadowy  existence 
at  Delhi  till  1857,  tlie  8epoy  revolt. 

In  1805  Lord  Cornwallis  was  again  sent  to  India, 
but  died  at  Ghazipur  before  having  Ijeen  ten  weeks 
in  the  country.  Sir  George  Barlow  succeeded  dur- 
ing a  few  months.  During  his  term  another  mutiny 
of  Sepoys  occurred  at  Vellore  (180(5).  It  was  Ijrief 
and  promptly  su})})ressed  hut  sent  a  feeling  of 
insecurity  througli  the  empire.  Lord  Minto, 
governor-general  from  1807  to  181;].  was  dis- 
tinguished by  few  military  operations,  though  the 
governor  managed  to  consolidate  Wellesley's  con- 
quests and  keep  the  })eace  without  sacrificing 
English  prestige. 

The    successor   of  Lord    Minto    was  the   Earl  of 


AROUND  THE  WORLD  203 

Moira,  better  known  as  Manjuis  of  Hastings  (1.S14- 
1823).  Two  wars  of  the  first  mao-nitiide  and  tlie 
su})pression  of  the  free-booting  Pindaris,  in  Central 
India,  cliaracterize  this  period.  The  first  war  was 
witli  tlie  hardy  little  Goorkhas,  in  Ne])aul,  in  1<SI4- 
\').  in  which  the  English,  at  fii'st  fairly  beaten, 
finally  suececMU'd  in  ol)taining  their  own  terms. 
The  other  was  with  the  Marliattas  and  resulted  in 
tlie  final  sul)jeetion  of  these  wardike  people,  and  the 
giving-  of  orderly  and  good  government  to  their 
wretched  retainers.  The  war  against  the  Pindaiis 
was  of  an  altogether  different  eharaeter.  These 
peo})le  were  not  a  race  like  the  Marhattas  nor  were 
they  bound  together  by  [)urely  religious  ties,  as  the 
Sikhs.  They  were  merely  i)lundering  bands,  like 
the  free  companies  of  mediaeval  Europe,  with  no 
community  of  race  or  religious  sentiment.  They 
preyed  over  much  of  Central  India  from  Madras  to 
Bombay  and  one  of  their  chiefs  had  an  organized 
army  of  many  regiments  and  consideraljle  artillery. 
Lord  Hastings  collected  120,000  men  to  operate 
against  them  and  tliev  were  finally  completely  oyer- 
come. 

Lord  Amherst  ruled  from  1823  to  1828  and  had 
two  \vars  to  carry  on,  the  first  Burmese  campaign 
and  the  ca})ture  of  J:)hurtpoor.  The  Burmese 
War  (1824-20)  \vas  forced  on  the  English  by 
Burmese  raids  and  the  refusal  of  the  raiders  to  con- 


204  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALI^ 

sider  any  peaceful  pro^iosals.  It  cost  the  Eiiglisli 
the  lives  of  20,000  men  and  $70,000,000  and 
resulted  in  the  cession  of  two  provinces.  Bhurtjujor 
was  taken  hy  Lord  Comhermere  in  1827  l>y  storm, 
though  a  similar  attenij)t  in  1<S0.")  had  resulted 
disastrously  to  the  English. 

Lord  ^\'illiam  Bentinck,  a  descendant  of  the  fam- 
ous Bentinck,  Duke  of  Tortland,  the  friend  and 
counsellor  of  ^\'illiam  of  Orange,  was  governor  fi'om 
1828  to  1835.  But  little  war  characterized  his  ad- 
ministration :  hut  it  is  to  liis  imperishahle  glory 
that  during  his  rule  Lord  Bentinck  began  the  course 
of  administrative  and  other  reform  which  have 
made  modern  India  and  its  millions  happier  and 
better  than  ever  in  tlieir  history.  He  equalized 
taxes,  encouraged  educated  natives  to  enter  the  ser- 
vice of  the  English,  and  aljolished  the  burning  of 
widows  and  the  murders  of  the  thugs.  The  l)urn- 
ing  of  widows,  it  was  claimed,  was  in  obedience  to  a 
text  in  the  \"edic  hymns,  written  in  the  tongue 
which  is  the  common  parent  of  Hindostanee,  Greek, 
Latin,  Lithuanian  and  English.  But  modern  schol- 
arship had  clearly  shown  that  this  use  of  the  text 
was  the  result  of  a  mistranslation.  The  result  of 
this  move  on  the  part  of  the  governor  general  has 
shed  most  distinguished  honor  on  the  English 
name.  In  1834,  the  nnsrule  of  the  Kaja  of  Coorg 
brought  on  a  short,  shai-|)  war,  the  natives  wishing  to 


AHOTNI)   TIIK    WOULD  205 

\)c  taken  under  En«;iisli  protection.  Tliis  was  done 
and  the  Rajali  retired  to  Benares.  This  was  the  only 
annexation  (hiring  Lord  Bentinck's  aihninistration, 
and  it  was  done  "in  consideration  of  the  unaiuiiious 
wish  of  the  people." 

Sir  Charles  (afterward  Lord)  Metcalfe  was  gover- 
nor general  in  1  s;').")-."]!).  His  administration  was 
memorable  for  the  bestowal  of  full  libei'ty  to  the 
native  press,  a  measure  initiated  by  his  predecessor. 

With  Lord  Metcalfe's  successor,  Lord  Auckland 
(LS;>(J-42)  begins  another  chapter  of  war,  not  always 
honorable  or  creditable  to  England.  The  active 
interference  in  Afghan  p(»litics  dates  from  Lord 
Auckland's  sending  an  army  to  Kabul,  the  Afghan 
ca})ital,  to  put  Shah  Shuja  on  the  throne  (LS;>9). 
The  English  army  remained  for  two  years;  but  in 
November,  1841,  the  English  political  agent,  Sir 
Alexander  Burnes,  was  assassinated,  as  was  also 
Sir  William  Mcnaghten.  After  a  delay  of  two 
months  the  British  Army  set  out  in  midwinter  to 
return  to  India.  (Jf  the  4(K)()  fighting  men  and 
12,0(JO  camp  followers,  just  one  man.  Dr.  Brydon, 
reached  Jalalabad.  A  few  prisoners  were  taken  and 
well  treated  by  orders  of  Akbar  Khan,  eldest  son  of 
Dost  Mohammed,  whom  the  English  had  dethroned 
to  })ut  up  Shah  Shuja. 

The  garrison  of  Kandahar,  the  old  capital  of 
Afghanistan,  abandoned  that  city  and  coming  home 


206  FROM   INKDENDPENCE   HALL 

bv  way  of  lval>ul,  iiiet  there  the  army  which  had 
been  sent  to  relieve  Jalahibad  but  had  gone  as  far  as 
KabuL  The  English  contented  themselves  ^^•ith 
blowing  up  the  bazaar  at  Ivahul  and  recovering  the 
English  prisoners  and  then  returned  to  India,  leav- 
ing Dost  Mohammed  on  the  throne  where  he  was 
before  their  intervention.  The  withdrawal  of  tlie 
garrisons  was  the  work  of  Lord  Ellenborough,  \\  ho 
succeeded  Lord  Auckland  about  a  month  aftei"  the 
news  of  the  annihilation  of  the  army  retreating 
from  Kabul  reached  Calcutta  (1842).  The  conquest 
of  the  Ameers  of  Sindh,  a  most  unjust  war,  and  the 
war  against  Gwalior  were  the  two  other  wars  of  Lord 
EUenborough's  career. 

Sir  Henry  Hardinge,  a  veteran  of  Napoleon's  wars, 
who  had  lost  a  hand  at  Ligny  just  before  Waterloo, 
succeeded  Elenbo rough,  governing  from  1844  to 
1848.  His  administration  was  characterized  by  the 
conquestof  the  great  Sikh  nation,  who,  as  already  said, 
were  a  great  religious  sect,  whose  history,  teachings, 
and  unflinching  courage  were  alike  remarkable.  The 
great  lianjit  Sinh,  founder  of  the  political  power  of  the 
Sikhs,  had  organized  his  fellows  into  regiments  upon 
a  religious  basis,  similar  to  that  of  Gustavus  Adol- 
phus  and  Cromwell,  and  had  extended  his  conquests 
far  and  wide  over  the  extreme  north  of  India.  He  was 
also  strictly  faithful  to  his  word  as  given  to  the 
English.     After  Ranjit's  death,  however,  a  different 


AKOINI)  TJIP;   WORLD  207 


state  of  tliiiiifs  arose.  in  iS45  a  Sikli  ai'iiiv  of 
60,000  men  with  150  guns  crossed  the  then  bound- 
ary, the  Sutlej  river,  and  invaded  India.  Sir  Hugh 
Gough,  English  connnander,  fought  four  desperate 
battles  with  them,  witii  heavy  loss.  In  the  end, 
however,  Lahore,  the  Sikh  capital,  was  taken,  Sir 
Henry  Lawrence  was  sent  there  as  resident,  a  por- 
tion of  their  territory  annexed  and  a  Britisli  garrison 
occupied  the  Punjab  for  eight  years. 

The  Earl  of  Dalhousie  (LS48-1856)  is  said  to  have 
left  a  greater  impression  upon  India  than  any  man 
since  the  days  of  Clive.  Whilst  it  is  true  that  he 
was  compelled  to  fight  with  the  Sikhs  and  Burmah 
and  to  annex  large  territories,  his  deepest  concerns 
were  for  the  material  and  moral  welfare  of  the  peo- 
ple. He  it  was  who  gave  the  first  impetus  to  the 
network  of  railroads  and  canals  which,  by  making 
communication  easy,  has  rendered  famines  almost 
impossible;  he  it  was  who  encoui'aged  telegraphs 
and  steamshi})  lines  and  means  of  improvement- 
He  had  not  been  six  months  in  India  Ijefore  the 
second  Sikh  war  (1848-49)  broke  out.  The  English 
lost  at  the  battle  of  Chilianwala  2400  men,  four 
guns  and  three  regimental  colors,  January  L"], 
1849.  Lord  Gough,  however,  redeemed  himself  at 
Gujrat,  where  he  entirely  destroyed  the  Sikh  force. 
The  Punjab  was  annexed  by  proclamation  of  29th 
of   March,    1849.     The    Rajah,    Dhulip    Sinh,  was 


208  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HALL 

i^iven  a  pension  of  £58,000  and  lived  comfortably  in 
England. 

The  means  taken  to  pacificato  the  coin i try  were 
80  etfeetive  that  the  Hikhs  were  absolutely  faithful 
to  the  Knglisli  wlien  half  India  was  al)laze  durinir 
the  terril)le  mutiny  soon  to  come.  Taxes  were 
re(Uiced,  eijuitable  laws  introduced  and  enforced, 
eveidianded  justice  meted  out  to  the  people  and 
})eace  and  prosperity  followed.  The  second  Burmese 
war.  following  the  ill-treatment  of  some  Encrlish 
merchants  at  Rangoon,  resulted  (1852)  in  the 
annexation  of  a  large  part  of  the  valley  of  the 
Irawadi.  Here,  too,  the  effect  of  orderly  govern- 
ment was  soon  seen.  The  trade  of  Ransroon 
increased  four-fold  in  twenty-five  years  and  its  po})- 
ulation  lias  been  multiplied  l)y  ten  since  annexa- 
tion. Lord  Dalhousie  acted  tlironghout  on  the 
theory  that  the  good  of  the  governed  was  the 
purpose  of  government;  and  in  pursuance  of  this 
idea,  whilst  rigorously  respecting  the  rights  of 
reigning  princes,  invariably  annexed  possessions  in 
which  the  incumbent  had  died  leaving  no  natural 
heir.  This  was  done,  too,  even  in  the  cases  in 
which  the  princes  sought  to  over-reach  the  English 
by  adopting  heirs  to  the  inheritances.  Oudh  was 
also  annexed  in  1856,  and  the  kino-  was  ariven  an 
annual  pension  of  $600,000.  The  orders  to  Sir 
James   Outram,    the    resident,   were  to  assume  tlie 


AROUND   TIIK    WOHI.D  209 

administration,  on  tlie  ground  thai  '■  the  British 
Government  would  ho  guilty  in  the  sight  of  (lod 
and  man  if  it  were  any  longer  to  aid  in  sustaining 
by  its  countenance  an  administration  fraught  with 
suffering  to  nnllions:"  this  was  in  reference  to  the 
rule  of  the  native  pi-inee  whom  the  Englisli  thus 
finally  displaced.  The  annexation  was  only  decided 
upon  after  repeated  warnings  to  the  Nawabs,  ex- 
tending over  a  long  series  of  years,  that  tliey  must 
govern  justly  and  humanely  or  suffer  the  conse- 
cjuences.  The  irony  of  fate  was  such,  however,  that 
these  very  acts  of  hunianity  and  amelioration  were 
proljably  leading  causes  in  the  great  revolt  of  the 
following  year. 

The  appointment  of  Earl  Canning  (1856-()2)  was 
soon  followed  by  the  terrible  mutiny  of  ls."j7.  the 
last  great  tragedy  in  the  long,  checkered,  but  in  the 
main,  highly  honorable  career  of  England  in  India. 
It  seems  singular,  that  even  to  this  day,  the  exact 
cause  of  this  great  tradegv  is  not  known.  It  is 
probable,  as  alread}^  remarked,  that  the  spread  of 
civilization  and  of  Western  reforms  had  the  effect  of 
alarming  Hindoo  public  opinion  and  of  conveying 
the  impression  that  their  nationalities  and  religions 
were  in  danger.  The  introduction  of  rifles  into  the 
army  icijuired  the  use  of  lubricated  paper  envelope 
cartridges,  which,  l)efore  being  loaded,  had  to  be  bit- 
ten off  on  the  end.     The  re])ort  tliat  tlie  lubricating 


210  FROM   INDEPENDENCE   HAI.I. 

material  was  hog's  lard,  \\as  the  iiialeh  that  set  tire 
to  the  magazine.  On  Sunday,  May  10,  1857,  the 
storm  l)roke  at  Meerut,  where  the  native  troops  cut 
down  the  English  officers  and  all  the  Europeans 
they  could  find,  and  rushed  off  to  the  nearhy  town 
of  Delhi,  to  put  themselves  under  the  authority  of 
the  old  man  who  still  elaimcd  the  shadowy  title  of 
Em})eror  of  the  Mogul  Em})ire  of  India.  The  same 
terrible  scenes,  including  also,  in  many  cases,  mas- 
sacres of  English  women  and  children,  were  enacted 
in  many  other  places.  The  native  armies  of  Madras 
and  Bombay  remained  ti'ue  to  the  English,  and  the 
Sikh  population  of  the  Punjab,  recently  conquered, 
poured  out  en  mas><e  to  aid  the  English. 

Cawnpore,  Lucknow  and  Delhi  were  the  chief 
centres  of  interest.  At  the  first  named,  the  Eng- 
lish portion  of  the  garrison  after  a  desperate  resist- 
ance of  nineteen  days  under  a  tropical  June  sky, 
surrendered  and  were  promised  a  safe  conduct  as 
far  as  Allahabad,  down  the  Ganges.  They  had  no 
sooner  embarked  than  fire  was  opened  on  them  and 
of  450,  only  four  escaped  (June  27,  1857).  125 
women  and  children  who  were  left  Ijehind  were 
massacred  a  few  weeks  later  (July  15).  At  Lucknow, 
Sir  Henry  Lawrence  had  foreseen  the  storm  and 
chosen  his  defences.  The  garrison  held  out  under 
terrible  hardships  and  against  heavy  odds  from  July 
2d   to   September   25,  wdien   relieved   by   Havelock 


AROUND  THE   WORLD  211 

and  Outrain.  The  coinbiued  force  was  ljesiejj,e<l  till 
November  16th,  when  finally  relieved  by  Sir  Colin 
Campbell  (Lord  Clyde).  The  garrison  then  retired 
to  places  where  they  were  more  urgently  needed. 
Delhi  was  besieged  by  a  force  of  8000  Englishmen 
against  30,000  Sepoys,  beginning  on  June  8tli.  In 
August,  General  Nicholson  arrived  with  reinforce- 
ments fi'oni  the  Punjab,  and  after  a  desperate  assault 
of  six  days,  Delhi  fell  on  September  20th.  After 
this,  the  war  decreased  in  interest,  though  it  lasted 
in  places  for  nearly  two  years  longer.  The  war  in 
Oudh  was  carried  on  hx  Sir  Colin  Campbell  aided 
by  Sir  Jang  Bahadur  of  Nepal  at  the  head  of  the 
gallant  little  Gurkhas.  Central  India  was  reduced 
by  Sir  Hugh  Rose  (afterward  Loi'd  Strathnairn)  and 
here  some  of  the  most  tragic  and  romantic  scenes 
were  enacted. 

Here  it  was  tliat  the  Princess  of  Jhansi  died  in 
battle  at  the  head  of  her  troops  in  June,  1<S5S,  and 
here  it  was  that  Sii'  Hugh  })ut  again  in  practice 
tlie  old  Mogul  })unishment  of  blowing  insurgents 
from  the  mouths  of  cannon.  iSluch  hostile  criticism 
has  been  directed  against  the  English  for  these 
things;  yet  there  is  little  doubt  that  such  determined 
acts,  such  a  utilization  of  native  fears  and  super- 
stitions as  was  contained  in  these  executions,  served 
to  Itriiig  the  war  to  a  close,  to  save  much  bloodshed 
and  to  give  England  a   firmer  grasp  on  her  Indian 


& 


212  FROM   INDEPENDENCE  HALIj 

possessions.  That  she  should  ever  ijive  them  up  is 
not  to  l)e  thou^'ht  of,  and  that  she  may  never  do  so 
is  the  devout  wish  of  every  one  wJio  realizes  what 
blessings  of  peace,  order  and  justice  have  resulted  to 
those  teeming  millions  from  her  rule.  The  end  of 
the  mutiny  also  marked  the  end  of  the  East  India 
Company,  all  of  wdiose  powers  were  transferred  to 
the  crown  in  1858,  after  an  existence  of  258  years. 
Since  the  mutiny  no  internecine  troubles  of  any 
consequence  have  occurrerl.  Reforms  have  gone 
steadily  forward  and  the  conquerors  have  shown 
more  than  once  their  al)ility  to  cope  with  famine 
and  to  some  extent  with  pestilence.  During  the 
viceroyalty  of  Lord  Northbrook  (1872-70)  a  famine 
which  threatened  Lower  Bengal  in  1874  was  suc- 
cessfully averte(L  In  1878  the  govei-nment  despite 
tremendous  efforts  was  not  quite  so  successful. 
A  general  drought  o\'er  most  of  the  Empire 
caused  crop  failures,  and  over  five  millions  perished. 
Much  of  this  result  is  due  to  the  peculiar  habits  of 
the  people  themselves.  A  large  proportion  of  tliem 
will  not  eat  flesh  food.  As  they  \\ill  not  even  slay 
animals,  many  forms  of  animal  life  are  so  plentiful 
that  enormous  quantities  of  food  tit  lor  human 
beings  are  destroyed  in  consequence.  The  natives 
are  also  so  intensely  conservative  that  they  cannot 
be  induced  to  leave  over  populated  districts  for 
localities  where  land   can  be  had  for  the   asking. 


AROUND  THE   WORLD  213 

But  with  all  tliesc  drawbacks,  tlu'  population  of 
India  is  increasing'  witli  strides  so  enormous  that 
this,  in  turn,  is  becoininij;'  a  i;reat  social  (piestion. 

In  1S7S  the  affairs  of  Afghanistan  forced  tln'ui- 
selves  to  the  attention  of  the  English  goNcrnnient. 
Shere  Ali,  the  Ameer,  was  found  to  be  faNoring  the 
Russians,  whilst  declining  to  receive  an  English  en- 
\oy.  This  lead  to  war.  Tliree  British  armies  en- 
tered the  three  great  Himalayan  passes  and  Shere 
Ali  tied.  His  son,  Yakub  Ivhan,  made  a  treaty, 
advancing  the  British  boundaries  and  admitting  an 
Englisli  envoy,  ^^"ithin  a  few  months,  this  officer. 
Major  Louis  (Javagnari,  was  murdered  and  a  second 
war  promptly  followed.  Kabul  and  Kandahar  were 
occupied  and  Yakub  Khan  was  de[)orted  to  India. 
A  force  sent  into  Afghanistan  by  Ayoub  Khan  was 
also  brilliantly  re})ulsed  l)y  Sir  Frederick  Iloberts, 
September  1,  1880.  Abdurrabman  Khan  was  sub- 
sequently  recognized  as  Ameer  and   is  now  on  the 

« 

throne.  The  Bi'itisli  forces  retired  in  >Lirch.  1881. 
The  main  features  of  the  present  condition  of 
Britisli  India  are  its  in<lustrial  and  economic 
elements.  The  constant  tViction  between  the  Hindoo 
and  Mohannnedan  inhabitants  is  indeed  a  sul>ject  of 
more  than  passing  significance,  but  tliough  a  dee])- 
seated  difficulty,  it  is  maiufestly  under  effective 
control.  The  economic  disturbance  caused  by  the 
depreciation  of  silver  and  the  recent  closing  of  the 


214 


FROM    IXDEPENDENCE   HAI.L 


Indian  mints  to  the  further  coinage  of  that  metal, 
and  the  agitation  for  its  remonitzation  constitute 
the  leading  factors  in  the  existing  status  of  East 
Indian  affairs. 


FIKIS. 


RARK  BOOK 
COLLECTION 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF 

NORTH  CAROLINA 

AT 

CHAPEL  HILL 

Travel 

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